framerguy
Well-Known Member
I'd like to document my skimmer build. Please hold off on posting in the thread until it is complete then post questions and I'll answer as well as I can.
I built this skimmer to be used on my system which will consist of a 375DT, and three refugiums including one 75g, one 55g, and one 30g. The system will also have a 100g sump and hopefully a future frag tank of unknown size. This skimmer design is based on Frankies and many others to be found on the net, just Google "Beckett Skimmer" and several come up. This particular skimmer will need a Reeflo Marlin pump to run properly.
I began by gathering my materials. I purchased the acrylic tubes and sheets from http://www.freckleface.com/
The beckett injectors, gate valves, and thumbscrews came from http://www.4coral.com/diy_parts.htm
The other fittings and pipe came from Lowes. The gasket material I got at a local gasket making company. I used 1/4 neoprene and purchased a 24 x 36 inch sheet of it.
For this build I used extuded acrylic tubing. One 8" diameter tube and one 4 1/2 diameter tube in 5' lengths. I purchased two 4 1/2 tubes to use for other things. I used 2" white PVC from lowes to save money in an area I didn't feel I needed to see what was happening inside the tube.
I ordered three 24 x 48 sheets of 1/4" acrylic, and had enough left over to build a calcium reactor.
Cutting acrylic on the table saw is extremely noisy. Always wear ear and eye protection!!! I cut the flat pieces to size. The pieces measured...
Top and bottom: 12 x 14 1/2. I cut three of these size and will use one for the tube bracing
Sides: 12 x 14 1/2 (two of these)
Ends: 12 x 11 1/2 (two of these)
inner partitions: one piece 6 x 11 1/2 and one piece 9 1/2 x 11 1/2
These are the pieces cut out...
I used a table saw to rough cut the pieces 1/8" oversize. Make sure to rough cut each of the same widths at the same time so they all come out the same size. I then set up my router table with a straight bit so I could joint each edge. I set up the fence at distances from the bit so each piece would come out the exact same size. For instance, for the 12" wide pieces (which were overcut to 12 1/8) I set the fence at 12 1/16 and passed one side through, then set the fence at 12" and passed the other side through. It is tedious but necessary for exact dimensions. It creates very clean and smooth sides for good glue joints.
I next measured and marked the holes. I created a rabbeted edge for the tubing to sit in and create greater stability. I cut all of the circles on the drill press set up with a 1/4" straight router bit with 1/2" shank. I set the press speed as high as it would go. Measure the precise center of where the tube will sit on the flat acrylic and drill a hole the same diameter as the finish nail you will be using as the pivot pin. Cut the heads off of several finish nails as you will use several of them over the course of the build. To create the rabbet edge measure the exact distance to the outside diameter of the tube. For the 8" tube, that would be exactly four inches from the pin hole. Move the piece to the drill press and position the piece to the outside edge of the bit corresponds to the mark you made...
This photo is merely an example...Imagine if you will this is a complete piece of acrylic and not a cut out.
Set the depth gauge on the press to drill 1/8" deep.
Drill a starter hole 1/8"deep at one location and turn off the press. After the press stops, bottom out the bit in the hole and lock the shaft in place and drive your pin into the center hole. You will need to hold the work firmly. Turn on the press and slowly pivot the acrylic on the pin cutting a circle in it that is 1/8" deep. After that is completed turn off the press, remove the acrylic and pin and move the the inner edge of the rabbet. The outer edge of the bit should be 1/8" closer to the pin hole. Set the new pin site and cut the hole the same as before, going 1/8"deep the first pass, then reset the depth to complete the cut fully through the acrylic. Be sure to hold the outer part of the acrylic as it will be free once the cut is complete and could take off on you. Turn off press and allow to stop spinning before moving pieces further.
TIP: MAKE SURE YOU CUT THE OUTER CUTS FIRST AND WORK YOUR WAY IN IF MAKING MULTIPLE CUT RINGS. It's no fun to make the inner cut and realize you just cut away your pivot hole!
That's the first installment of the build, more to come.
I built this skimmer to be used on my system which will consist of a 375DT, and three refugiums including one 75g, one 55g, and one 30g. The system will also have a 100g sump and hopefully a future frag tank of unknown size. This skimmer design is based on Frankies and many others to be found on the net, just Google "Beckett Skimmer" and several come up. This particular skimmer will need a Reeflo Marlin pump to run properly.
I began by gathering my materials. I purchased the acrylic tubes and sheets from http://www.freckleface.com/
The beckett injectors, gate valves, and thumbscrews came from http://www.4coral.com/diy_parts.htm
The other fittings and pipe came from Lowes. The gasket material I got at a local gasket making company. I used 1/4 neoprene and purchased a 24 x 36 inch sheet of it.
For this build I used extuded acrylic tubing. One 8" diameter tube and one 4 1/2 diameter tube in 5' lengths. I purchased two 4 1/2 tubes to use for other things. I used 2" white PVC from lowes to save money in an area I didn't feel I needed to see what was happening inside the tube.
I ordered three 24 x 48 sheets of 1/4" acrylic, and had enough left over to build a calcium reactor.
Cutting acrylic on the table saw is extremely noisy. Always wear ear and eye protection!!! I cut the flat pieces to size. The pieces measured...
Top and bottom: 12 x 14 1/2. I cut three of these size and will use one for the tube bracing
Sides: 12 x 14 1/2 (two of these)
Ends: 12 x 11 1/2 (two of these)
inner partitions: one piece 6 x 11 1/2 and one piece 9 1/2 x 11 1/2
These are the pieces cut out...
I used a table saw to rough cut the pieces 1/8" oversize. Make sure to rough cut each of the same widths at the same time so they all come out the same size. I then set up my router table with a straight bit so I could joint each edge. I set up the fence at distances from the bit so each piece would come out the exact same size. For instance, for the 12" wide pieces (which were overcut to 12 1/8) I set the fence at 12 1/16 and passed one side through, then set the fence at 12" and passed the other side through. It is tedious but necessary for exact dimensions. It creates very clean and smooth sides for good glue joints.
I next measured and marked the holes. I created a rabbeted edge for the tubing to sit in and create greater stability. I cut all of the circles on the drill press set up with a 1/4" straight router bit with 1/2" shank. I set the press speed as high as it would go. Measure the precise center of where the tube will sit on the flat acrylic and drill a hole the same diameter as the finish nail you will be using as the pivot pin. Cut the heads off of several finish nails as you will use several of them over the course of the build. To create the rabbet edge measure the exact distance to the outside diameter of the tube. For the 8" tube, that would be exactly four inches from the pin hole. Move the piece to the drill press and position the piece to the outside edge of the bit corresponds to the mark you made...
This photo is merely an example...Imagine if you will this is a complete piece of acrylic and not a cut out.
Set the depth gauge on the press to drill 1/8" deep.
Drill a starter hole 1/8"deep at one location and turn off the press. After the press stops, bottom out the bit in the hole and lock the shaft in place and drive your pin into the center hole. You will need to hold the work firmly. Turn on the press and slowly pivot the acrylic on the pin cutting a circle in it that is 1/8" deep. After that is completed turn off the press, remove the acrylic and pin and move the the inner edge of the rabbet. The outer edge of the bit should be 1/8" closer to the pin hole. Set the new pin site and cut the hole the same as before, going 1/8"deep the first pass, then reset the depth to complete the cut fully through the acrylic. Be sure to hold the outer part of the acrylic as it will be free once the cut is complete and could take off on you. Turn off press and allow to stop spinning before moving pieces further.
TIP: MAKE SURE YOU CUT THE OUTER CUTS FIRST AND WORK YOUR WAY IN IF MAKING MULTIPLE CUT RINGS. It's no fun to make the inner cut and realize you just cut away your pivot hole!
That's the first installment of the build, more to come.