G!N+T0N!k's 75g wave front 25g s/r chronicle

G!N+T0N!K

Member
G!N+T0N!k's 75g wave front 25g s/r chronicle
Figure I'd start one of these since this is a first for me and be able to look back and see the progress.

So far I got 90lbs of aragonite sand, CPR CS100 HOB overflow, PondMaster 12B return pump, 26g glass tank for sump/refuge



Here's an attempt at characterizing my sump design:

|~~~~~~~~~~|
|__l_'_l_______,_|

skimmer-3baffles-refugium-1baffle-return

The glass baffles should be cut by this Friday. I picked up PVC piping, glue and a few fittings for return and overflow.

I just realized that I probably should have waited to put the sand in the tank till after I plumb and test. Hmmm :banghead:

Since this is tank is larger on one end and smaller on the other, what end would be best to put the HOB overflow and for the return?
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
Make sure you use the proper silicone when you install the baffles into the sump. Use ONLY an aquarium (fresh/salt) approved product. Don't do what I did and poison your reef using the wrong type of silicone.

I used the product pictured below. It was $3-4 at Lowe's a tube at Lowes hardware.

20080120AquariumSilicone.jpg


I am unsure which side to put the overflow on... maybe on the large end? I'm not sure if it makes a difference. Maybe someone else can chime in that has a wavey-tank.
 

Triggerjay

Well-Known Member
tagging along. I am interested in watching this build. I am not familiar with the "pondmaster" pump. One thing I would check, is that it is intended for saltwater use. Some pond pumps contain oil that can kill off your entire tank, and some of them have exposed metal parts that can, and will corrode in saltwater, also causing you water quality issues. Just make sure it is a saltwater sutable pump. Looks like youre off to a great start. Love the wave front.

Jason
 
Is that tank a PetSmart special? I saw a tank like that just yesterday I told the BF that is our next buy and build this is going to soo much fun to watch well good luck, Great start, and as always

Happy Reefing
 

G!N+T0N!K

Member
sasquatch - thanks for clearing up the pump confusion.

Everything looks good I would consider a mag18 instead of the 12 with head loss

I looked at the specs for the mag18 and with about 5ft head 1200gph! My overflow is rated at 800 gph. Even with the mag12 it will be 1120 with a 5ft head. I was told it will keep my main tanks water level topped out.

certainti420 - ya its' a PetSmart special. Well ...er more like discount. I been waiting for the price to drop and it did. But if I would have waited till now I could have saved another $100. DOH!
 
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CMG

Member
Petsmarts having a special? I know PetCo's isnt until around Sept....Ill have to look..

Nice tank you have there!
 

G!N+T0N!K

Member
For plumbing i am using:

overflow - 1.5" PVC 40 with 45° elbows.
return - 1.5" PVC 40 with 90° elbows.

I got the pieces cut and fitted them together and was wondering if I should put a union ball valve on either line?
 

vdituri

Well-Known Member
The ball valve could help on the return pump line to cut down on back siphoning if the power goes out. It's still good to have enough wiggle room in the sump in case the ball valve fails and it back siphons a little.

p.s - Welcome aboard! I'm past Spokanite myself.
 

tbittner

Well-Known Member
Definitely use a union ball valve on the return line from the pump. You'll need a ball valve to adjust/restrict the flow so you don't overflow the tank. This may or may not be needed, it depends on how your overflow performs. It also allows you to separate the line from the pump so you can remove the pump for servicing.

For back flow prevention (that's what happens when the electric goes out and the water in the pipe drains back down through the pump, back into the sump and it creates a siphon and continues to suck water out of the tank until the end of the pipe is exposed to air) most people drill a couple of small holes in the pipe right below the water line in the tank. Water would be siphoned until those holes let air into the pipe and it breaks the siphon. Or you can keep the ends of the return lines close to the surface of the water. Either way works but one of them needs to be implemented.

Don't bet your livestock lives on a check valve. They DO leak and let water drain back down out of the tank to the sump. It might not leak for the first few months, but it will leak at some point.
 

G!N+T0N!K

Member
Thanks for the tips vdituri & tbittner, I picked up a union ball valve and plan to drill a few holes for the siphon break.

I picked up my cut glass baffles yesterday and siliconed the s/r tank. I didn't like the black construction paper that was attached to the back of the main tank so I got some midnight blue and sprayed the whole can on it in multiple layers then found some black paint laying around and put a layer on. Now it is looking sharp.

I have my return line built and was thinking since it is 1.5" PVC, I could split it into two 3/4" return lines at the top? Where could I get those cool bendable nozzles I see in some tanks?

I'm off to build the overflow line, glue both lines, and leak test in a few hours.
 

nikkipigtails

Well-Known Member
the bendable stuff is called locline. yo can get it at marine depot. i'm sure you can get it other places too though.
 

G!N+T0N!K

Member
Everything works great!

nikkipigtails - thanks I want some to control the return flow.
 
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G!N+T0N!K

Member
Opps! I put the sand in before I mixed the salt! I know I was in a hurry and also wasn't thinking clearly after a few drinks celebrating the plumbing success. Now I have a cloudy tank still after over 12 hrs. :cry1: :ashamed:

Should I do a water change now and what percent? Or wait it out till it clears up then add live rock?

I also have a 20g that has been up for 2yrs that I want to dismantle and use the sand and live rock in there for the refugium. When is a good time to make that transfer?

 
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