Dirty tank syndrome :-(

Petronivich

New Member
Right hi guys, ive got dirty tank syndrome had it for a few months now. I seem to have a build up of ugly brown hair algae and some green. Ive noticed this seems to get worse on hot days which are far and few between in England. I put this down to poor water flow so have added hydor koralia in right corner of rsm 130d. Lights are running 12pm-9pm changed the bulbs 3months ago running stock. As for filtration sponge for mechanical, carbon, rowaphos phosphate remover changed weekly and ehiem bio balls cleaned 3 monthly not changed since setup about 6months ago.
I have been doing 20-30% water changes every week using just ro water and Kent marine reef salt removing as much algae as possible (can be hard as the clowns have made a particular bit of HA thier bed area :) ) before siphoning water out. Sponge is cleaned out weekly carbon changed at 3 monthly intervals. I currently have 2 perc clowns and 1 royal grammar. About 6 herms handful of snails and an emerald crab. They are being fed once a day with a quarter cube of frozen brine shrimp with garlic there is minimal wastage that I can see. The skimmer seems to be skimming correctly. I have had problems keeping the tank cool on hot days where I have had temps of 80-84. Currently it is 76 at 9pm. I have no corals just live rock and sand. This has really been eating away at me and I feel ive tried everything.

Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Last water readings

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 15ppm
Ph 8.4
Salinity 1.026

5ad0fd6a-2368-fec4.jpg


I ran out of phosphate tester will pick one up when I get more water.
 

dmatt88

Has been struck by the ban stick
My guess is ur over feeding buddy n a tad shy on ur clean up crew. My guess is ur phosphates r pretty high. Did I read whether ur using rodi water?

..........I live my life as a warning to others.
 
Change Lights if they are old.. Keep Temps in the mid to upper 70's... Less is more... Lights for 8 to 10 hours a day.. I followed a guide on here on how to get rid of algae and it worked for me....
 

Petronivich

New Member
Hi, lights are about 2-3 months old. I am using reverse osmosis water that has not been de-ionized. My lfs dont have a de-ionizer. Im having problems keepin the temp down atm. Cant really justify buying a chiller for the possible 1week of sunshine we get for the year. Ive put freezer packs into the back chambers to bring the temp down this works on a temporary basis... Not sure what else to do.

Sent from my LT15i
 

Tru2nr

Well-Known Member
shouldnt need a chiller....a small fan blowing across surface water should take care of the heat issue. I would buy your own rodi unit...di is essential as it removes silica which feeds algae. I would also cut back feeding to every 3 days

...Food, beer, salt needed can only afford two...i'll buy food next week i'm a reefaholic
 

Petronivich

New Member
Ive got the small fan "upgrade" running constantly. Maybe it needs replacing or a clean. I will have to look into getting a ro/Di unit as im going through so much water doing big changes, either that or find a new fish shop...

After reading all the info nano has posted I feel much better about the situation. My marine blues are lifting :)

If I opt to have 4 hours of light a day there is no harm to the livestock is there? My emerald and hermits will love it they tend to come out at night. Should I turn the night light LEDs off as well?

When I feed the beasties a 1/4 cube of frozen brine and garlic disappears within a minute. This once a day is ok yeah?

Sent from my LT15i
 
Unless I missed it, what's your phosphate level?

You need to reduce nitrates, phosphates to undetectableb levels. Also, I would recommend tank temp between 77-78 degrees. I vodka dose, to keep my nitrates and phosphates in check, did wonders for my tank, since I was getting green algae from time to time.
 

Petronivich

New Member
Unless I missed it, what's your phosphate level?

You need to reduce nitrates, phosphates to undetectableb levels. Also, I would recommend tank temp between 77-78 degrees. I vodka dose, to keep my nitrates and phosphates in check, did wonders for my tank, since I was getting green algae from time to time.

Not sure about phosphates right now ran out of tester will be getting more tomorrow when I go to the lfs. It's tricky keeping the temp down when im at work dont want to keep the lid open as I have 3 Bengals who would either be fishing or swimming in my absence. Im going to try floating a frozen bottle of water see if that makes a difference.

Sent from my LT15i
 

Petronivich

New Member
Have just tested 0ppm phosphates with new salifert phosphate tester, not used this one before... So my nitrates are to blame I assume.

Sent from my LT15i
 

dmatt88

Has been struck by the ban stick
Possibly. Water change the trates out n see what u get. Also that cuc needs addressed.

..........I live my life as a warning to others.
 

reefer gladness

Well-Known Member
I'd remove those bio-balls as the likely source of detritus build up and nitrates. The In-Tank media rack is a great addition to hold your media. Most people use filter floss, purigen, and chemi-pure elite in the rack. Also vacuum the sand bed when doing water changes if you haven't been.
 
Have just tested 0ppm phosphates with new salifert phosphate tester, not used this one before... So my nitrates are to blame I assume.

Sent from my LT15i

Your high temperature is also a factor, along with the temperature swings, not good for your livestock.

I would try carbon dosing with vodka (Carbon dosing with vodka guide, How to get zero Nitrates & Phosphate in aquariums) to correct your nitrate issue and secondly, get a chiller to maintain your water temperature. Outside of your algae problem, the temperature swing in your tank is really unhealthy for your livestock.
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
Phosphates will generally test 0 when algae is thriving ... so i wouldnt rule that out just yet.

Algae consumes the phosphate as soon as it becomes available, very hard to catch a high reading.

Another great product for your back chamber is a "Poly-Filter" pad. They remove nitrate/phosphate, and change color when exhausted.
 

Petronivich

New Member
Ah ok, I thought the poly filter pads were like the floss pads that worked like a sponge. Will try order some tonight thanks guys.

Sent from my LT15i
 
Top