BSJF dying?

kyley

Active Member
Hi All,
I just returned from a week vacation and everything in my tank looks great (coral growth, all other fish and inverts look great), except my BSJF that has spots (growths?) on its head and white splotches along its sides. I don't know how long it's been like this, but based on others' recent experiences and their fish dying a day later, I'm guessing it's been less than a day... My expectations are very low after reading about several others' experience with this situation and the first paragraph after the second picture in this article on BSJF. I'll get into the full information Lee usually asks for in a minute, but first the basics. I've had the fish just over 3 weeks now. It's been eating great (same with over vacation AFAIK) and acting very healthy (ate well tonight also). A week and a half ago I added my red firefish which had been in QT for 3 weeks (which could have stressed it out a bit?). "Spot" hasn't been breathing fast for the most part, but I noticed a little bit of that after swimming around for a bit. All in all, he doesn't act very differently, except for hanging out at different places than usual - but exploring and finding new places has kind of been the norm.

Here's what Spot looks like today - note it's not only the white splotches, but also small white spots and/or growths that are visible only on close inspection:
spot_back.jpg

spot_back_and_spots.jpg

spot_growths.jpg

spot_growths2.jpg


My questions:
1. Is this brooklynella (sp?) or BSJF disease? Whatever it is, is it contagious to the other fish?
2. Is there anything I can do to treat this fish? If so, what can I do, and how can I get it out of the DT?

Lee, the answers to the questions you usually ask are:
A. My tank was started Dec 18th, so almost 3 months old. It took awhile to cycle; Jan 7th it was completed.
B. Not sure on the dimensions (haven't been able to find them), but it's a 65 gallon Red Sea Max 250. I believe that does include the back panel water. No refugium yet, but planning on it. Stock skimmer, have CPE instead of the stock carbon and have about 72 lbs live rock and started with live sand.
C. Not sure on exact flow, but stock RSM pumps plus a Vortech MP20 running at about 85% and a Koralia 1.
D. All fish and inverts are listed in my sig (although a few corals have been added since). The clown is about 2-2.5" and so is the red firefish (the BSJF is about 3").
E. All live rock was purchased "cured" locally from 3 different LFS - mostly Caribbean with some Indonesia and likely others.
F. Yes, I use a QT but did not with the clown (first fish) or BSJF (didn't want to stress it in a no-sand QT that was questionable - and thought it would be best to let it get comfortable in the DT - which it seemed to have done).
G. All LR was added at the same time (on Dec 18th); no QT. 3 weeks after LR, the inverts were added. On 1/28, the clown was added (first fish).
H. Substrate was 1/2 live sand from a LFS and the other half is aragonite sand - total about 2.5" deep on average.
I. Food is frozen mysis shrimp and formula one in the evenings and that or Tetra MicroCrabs Cyclop-eeze Granules in the mornings (the Tetra was the first food recommended to me by an LFS - but I plan to phase it out soon).
J. Food was first added ~1/15 for our skunk cleaner, peppermint, and fire shrimp (1 of each) - that was the Tetra MicroCrabs.
K. I have 6 scarlet reef hermits and one emerald crab.
L. I've had the BSJF for 3 weeks now. I did no treatments when I got the fish (don't know anything about doing that yet). It was acclimated over about a half hour or more by slowly adding DT water to the bag (after previously floating the bag for 15 minutes).
M. No vitamins or fat additives (I'm open to recommendations on what to add and how to add it!). I dose Alk and Ca.
N. I test for NH3, NO2, NO3, PO4, Ca, Alk, pH quite often (at least right now) - almost daily on Ca, Alk, pH right now - the others every few days. Mg, only occasionally (but so far has always been 1250 or so). The first 4 have all been staying at 0 consistently. Ca between 390 and 460 (usually the higher end but it dropped a bit while I was on vacation). Alk 7-9 and pH around 8.2-8.4, sometimes as high as 8.5. I use API test kits (had been using pH meters but I've managed to break two of them already) :(
O. All are above but salinity which is generally 1.026 (with a refractometer). Also, temp has been consistent between 79-80.
P. Small amounts of hair algae, a lot of coralline, brown diatom is growing quite a bit and scraped off the glass every few days. Not sure what everything is (some red algae I'm unsure about, but it looks like a type of coralline?).
Q. Water changes are 10% or a bit more once a week.
R. 5-stage RO/DI unit in my home.
S. A lot of coral (see below) including a large toadstool mushroom and a few tiny free SPS frags (one of which died right away).
T. Clean mechanical (sponge) filters once a week, blue bonded filter above them cleaned once a week and replaced once a week. Protein skimmer is emptied and cleaned a couple times a week. I think that's about it. I don't do anything with the sand (Spot does that).
T. Lighting is stock T5 VHO run 9 hours a day.
U. A few colonial hydroids (not spreading; reducing), a few digitate hydroids, and one small crab I haven't seen in a long time.

Thanks,
--Kyle
 

reefhusker

Member
Hope you get some help here Kyle. Lee is the best! My son had tears after losing ours so I hope you don't have to endure the same. Best of Luck!
 

kyley

Active Member
Spot is still alive this morning, but he seems to be darting out and quickly rubbing on the sand.... He's also hiding in the back of the tank more. He hid further back during the night too (generally up front). Maybe this is just new behavior since we haven't been around for him to look at. Or maybe it's because he's not feeling well.

Brad, my son stayed with his grandparents last night, so he doesn't know yet. I know he'll have tears and more if we lose Spot. :( Thanks,
--Kyle
 

leebca

Well-Known Member
Hey Kyle,

Thanks for being so thorough. Makes things move along faster and in the right direction. Some observations first:

1 Food additives and a better choice of foods can be found here: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...eeding-marine-fish-marine-fish-nutrition.html

2 You are keeping your alk, ca, and mg, in range, but not balanced. You should look into maintaining their balance. This is the primary reason your pH drifts so high. For balancing, follow the chart in this post: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/34037-what-water-quality.html You presented ranges that are too large. Keep the numbers steady and balanced.

3 I'm not enthused about putting these fish into relatively new aquariums. I like putting them into aquariums that are more than 6 months old -- seasoned and stable -- what I call mature aquariums: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/29836-mature-aquarium.html

4 You seem confused on the use of the quarantine process. It isn't something to use sometimes. Either you need to quarantine all fish or don't bother. Try to make it a point to quarantine everything.

5 When you do quarantine, do so for no less than 6 weeks. Follow these guidelines: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums.../23584-fish-quarantine-process-step-step.html

6 Much harder to break those in-field pH meters by Hanna.

As to the BSJF. . .These fish aren't fairing too well in captivity. There is much anecdotal information coming in to indicate that this is somewhat of a typical pattern -- new fish seems fine for a few weeks or couple of months; stops eating or starts to develop these symptoms; then spots show up; then fish dies.

Speaking in generalities, these fish have an above-average mucous coating defense system. We know that fish under stress lose some of their coating and sometimes their coating effectiveness. I have no doubt that this contributes to their poorly adapting to captive life. They need stability and low stress to maintain their coating. Then, when the coating is compromised and new marine life is introduced, this adds to their problems and the new fish can be bringing something into the aquarium the fish, without a full coating, can't handle.

They live in a location of the home aquarium where they are susceptible to a huge variety of benthic creatures, parasites, and an additional problem -- substrate. Some may be dying because of the wrong substrate.

They live in sandy areas and are used to substrates that are small diameter. I can't tell from the photos the size of the substrate. But in general, if it isn't sand, it isn't what they are used to.

They don't live with hermit crabs or bristle worms (to the best of my knowledge). I don't care for hermits anyway, but this fish should only be put in with snails as other clean up crew members.

Lastly, they come from water that, although can get to 80F certain times of the year, usually is between 65 to 75F. This means that in an aquarium of 78F or above most of the time, they are cooking.

If I was serious about keeping this fish, I would quarantine one training it to eat 3-4 times a day of prepared (proper) foods; put it into a display tank with sandy substrate no less than 3" deep in at least part of the tank, and the water temperature held at 72-74F. In this tank I'd put other temperate-zone water fishes (like from Florida or Mexico).

I don't see this setup in your description. So I suspect the fish will follow the too frequent pattern of captive life which is frequently reported.

Since I suspect at least the mucous coating is deficient and that has led to some bacterial infection, the only recommendation I can make is to quarantine the fish, treat with an antibiotic and either Pro Tech Coat Marine or StressGuard. Being quarantined may allow you to lower the temperature AND keep the fish away from other benthic creatures. Also, in the QT you can provide a bowl of silica sand.

Other than the above, I've seen nothing else help this fish.

The condition seems to be unique to these fishes, so spreading or contagious shouldn't be a concern unless the tank is particularly dirty and/or the bacteria are too high in numbers.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 

Reefmack

NaClH2O Addicted
PREMIUM
Lee - Some really helpful information on these fish. I think I'll leave my BSJF in the ocean.
 

kyley

Active Member
Thanks for the response Lee. I've been coming to the same conclusion as Terry, as much as I like this fish, leave the next one in the ocean; or at least, wait until I've had the tank closer to a year. The lower temperatures wouldn't work for my reef tank. I'd been reading articles saying the same - that they are from cooler water (but said that 80 would be okay, but above that wouldn't - I haven't gone about that yet, but for some reason my temps have been creeping up).

Lee, in response to your specific notes, which foods are you talking about? I'd read that article and Mysis is great according to it (though I couldn't find the true "mysid" vs mysis), and Formula One shouldn't be bad as a frozen food right? Certainly the Tetra is not good food and that's why I'm finding a replacement for it - and I planned to get Bloodworms and/or Cyclopeeze (not the Tetra granule type) today as others have mentioned in my own thread.

I don't think I'm confused on the QT process. I know all fish should be quarantined (though many don't quarantine at all), but I'm not sure of the point on the first fish (the clown) with no other fish to compete with - or get sick. The BSJF was a judgement call b/c I feel the QT has its own risks (as I can clearly demonstrate). I planned to QT the Firefish 4 weeks+ (did 3 weeks+ b/c I had to go on vacation and kept having problems with NH3 and NO2 climbing - it was safer to get the fish in the DT).

It certainly does appear that a lot of these fish are having these symptoms lately - something wrong at the source? Sad... :(

Regarding stress, Spot had been doing great - seeming comfortable in his environment and always ate well. Adding the firefish may have caused some stress though...

My sand grains vary in size, which is what was best for these fish from what I'd read? I'd actually heard larger was better for them, but the live sand I got was smaller stuff and the dry aragonite sand is larger.

I do have some bristleworms (don't see them too often though). I have only scarlet reef hermits and have had great luck with them so far (no snail eatings with lots of extra shells provided). Not sure how they'd bother the fish though?

If I can get Spot out, I'll try that medication process. Any tips for getting the fish out? :(

Here are some pictures from today. What I'm really curious about - are these growths around the face the same thing (they look perhaps a bit larger today)? Or is it something different like ich? As you can see, it looks like there's a little bit of them on the fins?
spot_growths3.jpg

spot_growths4.jpg

Thanks,
--Kyle
 

kyley

Active Member
Hi All (Lee),
I managed to get Spot into a QT yesterday afternoon. Then I went to the LFS for some of the meds you suggested. Unfortunatey, they didn't carry any of it :( They suggested trying a FW dip for 5 minutes and then API PimaFix Antifungal in the QT (after looking at the photos). One guy thought it was ich, but I'd assumed not... If you look at the more recent pics (above), there appears to be some of the gunk on his fins too. After seeing the newer pics, do you have any better idea what this is? Or just BSJF disease? He's still alive this morning, but barely (he was very lethargic after treatments last night, and basically the same now). Thanks,
--Kyle
 

redsea reefer

Well-Known Member
Sorry again about your BSJF Kyle.

the white spots on his head look like Ich to me. Ich usually start by the gills and fins.
 

kyley

Active Member
I've been wondering that too - but everything else looks like what Reefhusker's and others had... Does Ich usually stick out like that? I'll start reading up on treatment of ich just in case.

Edit: I just skimmed (for now) a bit of Lee's info on Ich. It sounds like Ich is salt size white spots, and these seem to look much larger than that?

Edit 2: Lee, if this is a strain of Brooklynella (kind of looks like it), should I go ahead and try a Formalin dip? Also, is there any point in continuing the API PimaFix Antifungal the LFS recommended? Thanks,
--Kyle
 

reefman78

Member
any update, hows he doing hopefully coming out of it =)...those fish are so cool, and I want one however I've seen alot of ppl lately struggling to keep them, not so sure now. GL
 

leebca

Well-Known Member
Foods and feeding are all covered in these two posts. You need to do the reading :read: and your questions will be answered:
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...eeding-marine-fish-marine-fish-nutrition.html
and
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums.../23069-different-forms-marine-fish-foods.html

Be sure to print out the attachment to the first linked post. Read in the post about bloodworms.

All I can say is what/where they normally live. Hobbyists tend to modify the facts with something closer to what they can do/accomplish. Sand is sand. I don't know of anyway to 'negotiate' that to be 'larger particles.' Be careful about your choice of words -- sand does not mean substrate. Sand is what you find on the average beach -- neither 'powder' nor granules. Cooler temps are cooler temps. Etc., etc.

Getting fish out of an aquarium is not that hard. Two things to remember: You are (hopefully) smarter than the fish and; these fish were caught by one person in an ocean -- you should be able to catch the fish in a 'box.' This will help with ideas: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...41546-goin-fishin-catching-fish-aquarium.html

Since fish do not speak, have expressions, etc. humans cannot tell from sight, when a fish is stressed or not. Stress is amazingly subtle to the human eye when it comes to fish.


 

kyley

Active Member
Hey Lee,
Thanks again for your help. Spot is still alive in the Quarantine tank which is giving me a glimmer of hope (not eating for the first time ever, but I'm sure that's because of the new environment [QT] and stressful moves)... Can you please :heart: help with your thoughts on these courses of action with this fish? I'm trying some of the things you recommended as well as others (and read your Fish Medicine Cabinet post), but need clarification on some things:

1. What do you think the growths around Spot's head are? Is it the same thing as the white blotches on the sides or a totally separate issue (like a parasite)? Note there appears to be some on the fins too.

2. I did a freshwater dip last night (RO/DI of course, w/ airstone to raise pH first) for 5 minutes. This was based on a LFS recommendation. Thoughts on this?

3. I used API PimaFix last night (anti-fungal) b/c the LFS thought it might be fungal ("cottony growth") and recommended it. I'm doubting that, but do you think that could be it? Should I continue this product or stop (I didn't use it again tonight)?

4. I found Maracyn Two Antibiotic, but it was specifically for freshwater. Can that be used, or is there a saltwater version I need to find??

5. I couldn't find Pro Tech Coat Marine or StressGuard - but I did find API Stress Coat - does this do the same thing? I added it to the tank tonight. Thoughts?

6. A different LFS recommended trying SeaChem Para Guard for parasites (and since it's also "a safe alternative to formalin" would it help if this were a brooklynella type infection)? Thoughts on using this product?

7. Should I consider adding copper to my QT? Think it would help at this point with this illness? I bought a bottle of the Cupramine you recommended (haven't used it yet).

8. Anything else I should consider trying? Formalin? Hopefully SeaChem Para Guard would suffice there...

9. Last question. *If* Spot recovers (and he's still alive so I have a glimmer of hope), is there anything I can do to prevent him from getting sick again? How long should I keep him in the QT - 4, maybe 6 weeks?

BTW, I actually have read both those feeding articles from start to finish a long time ago - it's just been awhile and I didn't remember everything from them. That's why when I went to look at Bloodworms (which I was considering getting based on recommendations of others), I decided not to when I read the packaging and that they were freshwater. Thanks again,
--Kyle
 

leebca

Well-Known Member
I'll do my best with your questions. But I have never had a BSJF do this, in my care. If I had, I would have done some biopsy on what I see.

1. There is a mix of opinion. Necropsy (dead fish) has not indicated a microbial cause. However, our techniques are not all that sophisticated. I have not seen any tissue samples of the features on the fish. Whether the growths are separate from or somehow associated with the spots, I don't know. I doubt this is microbial bases, but. . .

2. Worth a try. I had given that a thought. However from the photos, the projections are well protected and not 'hanging on.' A FW treatment would get off exposed attached parasites and that's what it is good for. What are your thoughts? Did they go away?

3. Not fungal. I wouldn't use it, but it's your call. These are my findings on that chemical: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...-melafix-pimafix-why-they-work-dont-work.html

4. Freshwater is okay. The Saltwater formula has an appetite stimulator in it, which could prove useful. Both are the same antibiotic.

5. Can only recommend the two I've used with success.

6. The approach is for a parasite. See 1.

7. No. Others have tried this without success, so I doubt your results are worth the stress it would put on the fish at this point in time.

8. I'd like to show the photos to some advanced veterinarians familiar with ornamental fish diseases. Can you post them as an attachment in their original resolution? Not sure to best get them. Maybe try a PM with them, too. Your photos are very good. The sometimes 'smart-ass' professors of mine will often say in reply to "What are these?" by answering, "They are spots." Don't get your hopes up on this one. :) The answer is well founded -- it takes careful necropsy to contribute to a proper diagnosis.

9. I'd try the QT at a lower temperature. Keep it at 75 or below. Reduce salinity to about 1.018. Keep water quality tops. If he does make it, then I'd say he can't make it in your display and you have to decide what to do.

Bloodworms are a fine choice, but only no more than 1 in 21 feedings. I use bloodworms, flake, and pellet for no more than 1 out of 21 feedings, each.

:hallo:

 

kyley

Active Member
Thank you very much for your reply Lee. He's still alive this morning, but perhaps a bit worse (face looks maybe a bit more blotchy), but hard to tell. In response to your answers / questions (and just a couple new ones):

2. I can't really tell. Maybe a little bit? Spot is hiding, so it's hard to tell...

5. OK - I don't need the recommendation - I just am wondering if it's the same kind of product (i.e. did I get the right thing)?

6. So you doubt it's a parasite but maybe? Think I should try continuing to use the Para Guard?

8. Great. I know I'll likely be unable to do much for my fish (I'm trying obviously), but maybe we can help others figure out what to do in this situation... I uploaded all the pics here in full resolution (although some of them are already zoomed in to nearly full resolution and cropped):
Index of /aquarium/Lee

9. Well, I understand what you're saying. I have a chiller (not yet setup) and may try to keep the temp 77-78 instead of 79-80 going forward (if Spot recovers). Many people seem to be having success with this fish at ~78, so maybe that would make a difference.

10. New question - do you think the disease could be due to bristle worms or other critters in the sand? In other words, would the sand conditions cause the condition to flare up again?

11. Also, if Spot doesn't make it, would a Watchman Goby (or similar) fish have the same problems in my tank (if sand critters are what hurt Spot)?

Thanks again,
--Kyle
 

leebca

Well-Known Member
Let's see. . .

5. As far as I can tell from reading about the product, it's not the same thing nor does it do the same thing.

6. I'd give the antibiotic and mucous repair treatment a chance to work first.

8. Thanks.

10. That has been a suspect of mine for some time. Does your tank have them? What size are they? Any idea of the density/concentration?

11. I've had several other Gobies, including Watchman and never had a problem with them and I have not heard of any similar condition in them.

You're welcome! :)

 

kyley

Active Member
Hi Lee, great, thanks again. You've been a ton of help. Spot is eating again now, but slower than usual :) He's clearly not very comfortable and isn't swimming around much (just sitting on the bottom). I'm sure that's mostly b/c of the QT and no sand yet...

5. Argh! I'll try some other LFS and see if they have it (2 so far didn't).

6. OK, thanks. I got the antibiotic today (freshwater only unfortunately). I put it in the tank and then saw it expired 9/08 :(

10. Yes, my tank has bristleworms. Some are largish (inch, maybe two long?). There are probably quite a few of them in the tank. I see them in the LR sometimes and when I pick up a piece of rock I might see them. I've also seen some big worms like 3" long but a different type. But, I've seen pictures of BSJF with what look like bristles or hairs sticking out of them that had a run-in with bristleworms. I *haven't* seen those bristles on Spot at all...

There isn't really a good predator for them is there? I'd just accepted them as beneficial to the tank, but maybe I shouldn't...

11. Great, that's good to hear. I'd assume other jawfish are as susceptible to this as BSJF?

Unrelated, but what's your experience been with Flame Hawkfish in a tank with shrimp? I have a peppermint, skunk, and fire shrimp (peppermint is decent size for a peppermint, but the skunk and fire are pretty big)...

BTW, I didn't realize until recently that a lot of the articles I've read while learning about aquariums were written by you (the food articles, the QT setup, etc.). Thanks a bunch for those! Take care,
--Kyle
 

kyley

Active Member
Hey Lee, if you get a chance, still a couple questions above. But for now, I wanted to post an update. I hesitate to say he's getting better, but this AM he's moving around in the tank a lot more. He was sitting on top of the sponge on the right side when I went down this morning - he'd been hiding completely behind the one on the left side before and not moving much. He ate his food this AM with a bit more vigor. I can't tell if the spots and white blotches are getting any better yet. The white on his sides appears to be less or gone in some respects, but the blue color from his sides seems to be much more faded throughout, so I'm not sure what to think. I am starting to get a bit of optimism though (I'm afraid to get my hopes up and still don't expect him to make it, but there sure seems to be a glimmer of hope). I'll post some pics when I'm able to get a good shot. Thanks,
--Kyle
 

leebca

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the update. Like you I am cautious about being happy with the news.

10. They aren't 'bad' per se, but as they get larger they can be problematic -- getting 'pushy' for food. They do keep the substrate churned up. Generally you shouldn't be sitting and watching your aquarium and see one swimming around. At that point it is time to setup some traps. They are easy to trap and traps are built especially to catch them. You want to catch the over stock.

Flame Hawkfish are pretty tame. They have a relatively small mouth and if you get a very small one (under 1") and train it to eat in the QT then it should leave your shrimp alone. However, forget to feed the guy or for it to not get its fair share at more than one feeding and all bets will be off. Some just think of all crustaceans as food, even when they are bloated with food.
 

kyley

Active Member
Hey Lee,
Just another update. My BSJF is still looking and acting better. As far as I can tell the white blotches on its side appear to be gone.

The white growths on its head are still there though and don't seem to be going away (still using the antibiotics and SeaChem Para Guard - and I put the PimaFix and StressCoat in the first day).

Lee, do you have any ideas on what these growths can be as they seem like they might not be related to the white blotches on the sides? And any other treatment I can try to get rid of them? Thanks a lot for any other ideas,
--Kyle
 
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