Devonvincent98
Member
I have a 29 gallon reef tank and my water has turned green so I added bio chem zorb and phos zorb and I added it yesterday. How long does it take for it to start working my water is still a nasty green color
Bio chem zorb and green algae water in reef tank
- Thread starter Devonvincent98
- Start date
Green water ususally means one of two things. You could have a green algae bloom or you could have a lot of dissolved organics in your system. Usually new tanks get the algae bloom and older tanks, where the water changes have not been kept up with is the cause of the organics building up. It is possible to have both problems at the same time.
In my opinion neither bio chem zorb or phos zorb will do much to correct the problem until you address the root causes. Most of of this comes down to what is typically done to control algae. I've posted this before, but it is applicable to your case -
Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control
Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.
Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -
Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.
Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -
Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.
Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae well use many of the above methods.
There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.
Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.
Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.
Additional thoughts on your specific system -
Green water can quickly be cleaned up using UV light or ozone, Both are fairly expensive methods.
If you have not already done so, get yourself a nitrate and a phosphate test kit.
Water changes, especially on new tanks is critical.
If your tank doesn't have one, I highly recommend a skimmer. They can remove a lot of "glop" from the water quickly. For a 29 gal tank, I'd get an AquaC Remora. Be careful when shopping for skimmers in the lower price ranges. There is a lot of junk out there.
In my opinion neither bio chem zorb or phos zorb will do much to correct the problem until you address the root causes. Most of of this comes down to what is typically done to control algae. I've posted this before, but it is applicable to your case -
Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control
Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.
Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -
Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.
Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -
Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.
Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae well use many of the above methods.
There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.
Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.
Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.
Additional thoughts on your specific system -
Green water can quickly be cleaned up using UV light or ozone, Both are fairly expensive methods.
If you have not already done so, get yourself a nitrate and a phosphate test kit.
Water changes, especially on new tanks is critical.
If your tank doesn't have one, I highly recommend a skimmer. They can remove a lot of "glop" from the water quickly. For a 29 gal tank, I'd get an AquaC Remora. Be careful when shopping for skimmers in the lower price ranges. There is a lot of junk out there.
Devonvincent98
Member
I have he coralife super skimmer for the 60 gallon
Finding the source of the nutrient import is important. If your water is that green, your skimmer should be kicking out tons of skimmate. if its not, it may need to be cleaned/tuned/or replaced. Davek nailed it all. start with big water changes, but test the Freshly mixed water for nitrates/phosphates. In a tank with algae thats obvious, you can do all the chem tretment you want, and you may still test 0 for nitrates/phosphates. its all tied up with the algae. Do water changes, frequently. In a case like yours, i'd do a 3day blackout and 20-30% water changes one or more times per day(if temps of change water dont match tank water wait at least 6 hours in between). Blackout will kill the algae(and your skimmer may go nuts during this if its not already), and the water changes will get rid of floating algae and nutrients. anytime i hear of someone with an algae problems, whether its a bloom of green/white water, or GHA, i always recommend the same course of action. Tune/clean the skimmer(including pump), 3day blackout(cover the tank with black plastic or a blanket), and 20-30% water changes 2x a day(8-12hrs apart) for 10 days. I've cured some serious algae problems with this method.
Devonvincent98
Member
What about feedin my fish
Devonvincent98
Member
And also should I use daylight or actinic bulbs for now because I also have phos ban in their to and the lfs said it should work
Most people with algae problems feed way too much. They may not think so, because the fish and clean up crew eat it all, but at the same time they create waste products that must be dealt with.
Before you cut back too much, you do need to consider the fish being kept. Some fish do need to eat almost all the time. A typical example is anthias damsels. Most fish can go a few of days easily. If you have fairly normal fish with out special feedings requirements, feed every other day and feed only what they can quickly finish off.
Before you cut back too much, you do need to consider the fish being kept. Some fish do need to eat almost all the time. A typical example is anthias damsels. Most fish can go a few of days easily. If you have fairly normal fish with out special feedings requirements, feed every other day and feed only what they can quickly finish off.
Devonvincent98
Member
I have two clownfish, a fire fish and a yellow tang about 3 inches long
Devonvincent98
Member
Scratch the fire fish he jumped out last night while I was sleeping
Mike Johnson
Well-Known Member
Bummer; yup, they're known jumpers. So are mandarins I found out the hard way.
Devonvincent98
Member
Yea so when my water is green should I use the daylights only or actinics or what because I have phos ban, phos zorb , and bio chem zorb
Those fish can be fed every other day.
What you want to do here is use the 3 day blackout as recommended by ddelozer. No light at all and water changes.
Correct. 3day blackout means the lights never get turned on. If the tanks in a front room or open airy well lit room, you might also(i always do anyways) cover the tank with black plastic trash bags around all sides possible. If you are running a skimmer, you can even cover the TOP of the tank with a trashbag, since the skimmer will oxygenate the water. the idea is to starve the algae of 1/2 of its food source. Algae is a plant, meaning it needs food(nitrate/phosphate/ammonia etc), and light for Photosynthesis. If you kill the light long enough it will die. Turning on the lights for 10min or so during feedings is acceptable, but minimal lights possible and for minimal time. What i do is take the trash bag off the top but leave the lights off. The ambient room light is enough for the fish to find food. if you feed just before you cover the tank for the blackout, and you dont have any "Feed daily" req fish, you can go the entire 3day blackout without feeding. Know your fish, some do req daily feeding.
Devonvincent98
Member
Everyday water change and how big of one for 29 gallon
I use 5g water bottles to do my water changes for my smaller tanks. Id recommend 10g 2x a day for 10 days, or 15g per day Once only. Up to you and depends on how you do your mixing. I keep 90g of mixed/heated SW on hand at all times. The purpose is to remove the algae as it dies and fades away. Using a turkey baster or small power head to blow off rocks helps alot too. Detritus tends to build up in crevices. Do that Just before you do your WC.