Anyone have a tank drilled? Any advice is needed.

[Squatch XXL]

I will be having my 40b drilled for SINGLE overflow to sump.

However as I have always had external overflow boxes I don't know enough to know what would be best.

Is it better to bottom drill or back drill?

Larger diameter pipe seems the best idea.

I will cover the area in question with an overflow box.

I have no intention of having a drilled return.

Any opinions about work you may have done differently? Anyone feel great about their hole placement and choice of overflow box? How did you do it/how would you do it?



I watched a video on you-tube and am 100% certain I could free-hand drill a hole myself. (that last sentence sounds like a disaster waiting to happen)

However, I am going to price out the local glass place vs a hole saw bit and my time. If I pay 40% more than the cost of the bit to have a pro do it, Id be happy. I will certainly have them create me a glass back and front to silicone to reinforce the new hole.

 

[anarchy]

I've only seen people drill the back. Alot of tanks (not all) have tempered bottoms. If you drill yourself make sure to go SLOW. If you go fast you could bust the glass. We free handed the 2 holes on the 27 I had. Make sure to keep water on the area you're drilling to keep the bit cool and a towel on the other side to catch the glass when it falls.

 

[Squatch XXL]

This tank has a MFR website stating that the bottom is not tempered, and there is no warning label on the bottom of the tank. If I take it to a glass specialist, they will be able to confirm, but from others experience with this tank model they usually are standard glass on all 5 sides.

Expert knowledge says to move away from an edge an amount equal to the size of the hole, and to stay away from the middle of the tank if at all possible.

Mechanically I would imagine that there would be less stress on a hole higher up on a side VS the bottom. However having the plumbing coming out the bottom means that I can move the tank totally against the wall....Though in my situation I have a stud wall with cheap paneling only on one side, and IF I go with a back drill will have all my plumbing in the wall.

However I am wondering because factory reef ready tanks are usually tempered, they are just drilled prior to the tempering.

I've only seen people drill the back. Alot of tanks (not all) have tempered bottoms. If you drill yourself make sure to go SLOW. If you go fast you could bust the glass. We free handed the 2 holes on the 27 I had. Make sure to keep water on the area you're drilling to keep the bit cool and a towel on the other side to catch the glass when it falls.

I would love to see any photographs of the tank with your overflow setup.

 

[StirCrayzy]

I watched a ton of you tube videos, and searched a lot of threads here, on drilling, before I took a shot at my own tank (4 holes) through the back.

1. Understand your overflow drain and whether you really want just one drain.
That leaves no backup, anything that clogs it will put return water over the top.
2. Reinforcement is a good idea, I've seen a lot of 40b cracks start from tightening bulkheads too tight. Acrylic or glass works just as well in this
3. I wouldn't drill the bottom, or even low on the sides, mostly because any slight crack, or other failure means the whole tank drains, vs drilling higher.

 

[anarchy]

This tank has a MFR website stating that the bottom is not tempered, and there is no warning label on the bottom of the tank. If I take it to a glass specialist, they will be able to confirm, but from others experience with this tank model they usually are standard glass on all 5 sides.

Expert knowledge says to move away from an edge an amount equal to the size of the hole, and to stay away from the middle of the tank if at all possible.

Mechanically I would imagine that there would be less stress on a hole higher up on a side VS the bottom. However having the plumbing coming out the bottom means that I can move the tank totally against the wall....Though in my situation I have a stud wall with cheap paneling only on one side, and IF I go with a back drill will have all my plumbing in the wall.

However I am wondering because factory reef ready tanks are usually tempered, they are just drilled prior to the tempering.



I would love to see any photographs of the tank with your overflow setup.

My overflow system was nothing but a bulkhead with a plastic cone strainer. Preferably the screw on type if you go this route

 

[Squatch XXL]

I watched a ton of you tube videos, and searched a lot of threads here, on drilling, before I took a shot at my own tank (4 holes) through the back.

1. Understand your overflow drain and whether you really want just one drain.
That leaves no backup, anything that clogs it will put return water over the top.
2. Reinforcement is a good idea, I've seen a lot of 40b cracks start from tightening bulkheads too tight. Acrylic or glass works just as well in this
3. I wouldn't drill the bottom, or even low on the sides, mostly because any slight crack, or other failure means the whole tank drains, vs drilling higher.

My overflow system was nothing but a bulkhead with a plastic cone strainer. Preferably the screw on type if you go this route

I was out doing yard work earlier, and came to these conclusions that are reinforced by both of your experiences:

I will have a pair of drains
They will be high the back.

Any good info on how far to reinforce? Both sides or just one? how far away from the hole do I go? In my mind a square with a hole in the middle should work so long as its most narrow point is at least as large as the hole itself.

 

[StirCrayzy]

I would & have braced about an inch around the hole(s). I used one pc of acrylic spanning all 4 of mine.
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forum/index.php?threads/joshs-superreef-65.78992/page-4#post-1179111

 

[anarchy]

I've never braced mine and all the 40 breeders I've seen drilled have never been braced

 

[Squatch XXL]

I may do an uphill sump. I haven't built the stand yet, but it would be quite simple to add a shelf 14" above the DT.


Im gonna crunch some numbers tomorrow

 

[StirCrayzy]

Not many tanks are braced in general.
I would say it is not nearly a requirement, but I'd love to hear any persuasive reasons why NOT to do it. Obviously it's an extra step, not mainstream or even common, and some minimal amount of $, but I couldn't think of anything to convince me away from bracing.
My plumbing vid, showing brace panel installed -->

 

[Squatch XXL]

I would say it is not nearly a requirement, but I'd love to hear any persuasive reasons why NOT to do it.

I sent you a PM to ask a few technical questions. The amount of communication via the private msg is limited to no more than 420 characters (That is a nice amount of letters).

I would certainly reinforce that amount of holes together. A light tap in between them could create a catastrophe.

My main drive to drill is to allow me to keep the back of the tank directly against the wall, However I am skeptical of drilling the bottom due to not knowing how much weaker It will be. I may simply take the cowards way out and make 2 DIY overflows and keep them covered in a corner by a top to bottom overflow box.

Another even cheaper method that I keep coming back to in my mind is to simply create a 6"x*8 partition in the corner or back and keep the heater, a return pump and the HOB skinmmer leg in. If It has enough flow through holes or egg crate than the water level will stay the same both in the tank and in the partition.

I basically only need a space large enough to hide the hardware from the future resident of the tank, with the goal of having a clean DT.

I am torn as to what I may do next. Stay tuned, because I have been known to up and do something absurd on a whim.

 

[Triggerjay]

If I were to re drill my tank.. I chose to have 1 1-1/2" drain on my 37g cube. If I were to redo it, I would have drilled two drains, one above the other. I would then install a valve on the lower drain so I could slow the drain rate to submerge the bulkhead. The top drain would act as a backup. This method would be near silent. My single 1-1/2 drain is loud. I have grown used to it, but if I were to do it again this would be the one change I would make. I run a low profile internal overflow box. Everything looks clean,... Just a little loud (like a small waterfall in the living room).

-Jason

 

[Squatch XXL]

If I were to re drill my tank.. I chose to have 1 1-1/2" drain
-Jason

I love what you are saying here. You simply want a pair of drains to create redundancy?

I came to a conclusion just this afternoon. God hates a coward, and that I will be having maby 2 holes drilled (one in either corner) and then install an overflow. A single 3/4th inch should cover me but I will probably install a pair.....Its either a pair of 3/4" or a single 1".

I do like the idea of getting a reinforcement plate for the inside of the tank seems like a sound plan to me, and I will be having pieces of glass cut to match the bulkhead hole.

My first "go-to" is a durso standpipe. I could also simply route the "vent' to another room where it can be noisy.

I don't know how your drain is in your 37, but the noise can have a few culprits.....I am 100% sure you know what you are doing as well.

Noise though not an actual issue at all will be an issue with me. I will go to absurd lengths to route the noise of water falling down PVC. My tank will be in a man cave, but Irrelevant...I don't want to hear it. Ill drill a hole in the wall, and send the vent line into the mechanical room. I do plumbing, so the idea of water flowing through pipes silently is (dare he say it) a pipe dream. However its easy to direct the gurgle elsewhere.

 

[anarchy]

2 drains is honestly your best bet. Not only will it be silent but it will allow for more flow through the tanks and have a safety for overflows. All of my tanks for now on will be drilled "herbie style"

 

[StirCrayzy]

Two is a must in my opinion. At least one to valved down to maintain a full siphon.What is the return pump planned? I would go with 1" drains but that's just my paranoia speaking.

Also, if you add the extra plate, it's value is on the outside of the tank, where the bulkhead nut tightens onto. Inside the tank you have the rubber gasket supplying the extra give to cushion the glass, not much risk of a crack starting from the inside.

 

[Squatch XXL]

Just got back from the hardware store. Of course I forgot to get extra bends from the back of the tank to the horizontal stand pipe. Should I use a Street 90 for that, or stick with a standard 90? (my logic says to keep it as short as possible.)

....and they don't have the proper drill bit.

Anyone have any comments on how tall to make a standpipe...(or go with the idea to keep it as short as humanly possible.)

I may simply suck it up and pay a shop to drill it, but then I have to drive all over the city to the only place that even talked to me about it....But for $10 a hole, Its almost worth it.

Edit:

Standard 3/4" bulkhead is exactly 1 3/8 (1.375) inches which translates to 35mm. Does this sound correct as well?

Edit#2

I could run a durso pipe horizontally with the Tee looking up, and a street 90 looking down on the end. Has this been done before and/or should this be something I consider?

Edit#3

So, you could have a higher and lower elevation drain, and throttle the lower one with a ball valve. What is the purpose of this? Is keeping the drains at the same elevation (Via overflow box) a viable method (my plan)?

@StirCrayzy
I have not decided on a return pump because I am a bad mix of terribly busy and terribly lazy....I have plenty of weeks to sort this out. I figure that at 4-5' head I would want 320ish gph. I think that there is quite a bit of room for sway based on my minor stocking guidelines. I think that something as low as a 250 Gph with a powerhead in the DT would do me fine. I have yet to build the 2x4 stand which dictates elevation from sump to DT. The goal is a 20g Long for sump and partition out for my minor filter issues.

Anything in that range anyone would shout out about would be loved. Id prefer threaded connections for pvc vs barbed.

 

[Squatch XXL]

After searching another "big box" hardware store I found a 1-3/8" bit....however it was over $40 USD. The race is on. Either I get a bit in the mail, or I load up my car with the tank and take it out for glass cutting.

 

[StirCrayzy]

Order from BRS. WAY cheaper.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean with the pipe orientations, if you are making an overflow box at the top of the tank, you don't really need any pipes..

See some overflow options here.
http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/beginner-discussions/19407-types-overflows-illustrated-guide.html

 

[Squatch XXL]

Order from BRS. WAY cheaper.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean with the pipe orientations, if you are making an overflow box at the top of the tank, you don't really need any pipes.

Noise is a concern, but what is a typical "pipe" configuration inside of an on-back overflow box?

http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=30220
Quote:
"Situated inside the tank but only in the upper portions this version of an overflow takes up little real estate, Skimming is on par with the versions above but this version MAY proove noisy as adding a durso in such confined space may be problematic "

I will use that type of overflow in each corner, but yet still have a durso. I plan on drilling low enough that I can either run a durso verticle as is typical, or horizontally providing the same mechanical function. I can easily make an overflow from plexiglass that meets the spacing needs from the bulkhead.

Does this make more sense?

 

[StirCrayzy]

More yes. If your doing two holes put them both in the same overflow box, then you have one elbow turned down, and one turned up. You valve the turned down (primary drain) pipe leading to the sump until you get just a trickle over the top of the upturned (secondary) drain.
This will result a pretty quiet setup.