Anybody keeps non-photosynthetic corals and will talk shop?

jnohs

Member
I would say thay are in constant random medium. bending the fingers of the polyps but not the stems. I have allways feed a lot of food to my tank at least every other day but sometimes 2 time a day.to my tank. Mysids, cyploses, marinesnow, flakefood and live brine shrimp not very often though.

oh i would say no on the branches do not bend at all in the flow.
 

vdituri

Well-Known Member
The only thing I could add to this discussion would be to start with good healthy stock. My yellow sun corals (flowerpot kind) were in ill health when I got them and have never thrived. My black sun corals (branching kind)were in good health and have done extremely well. No spawnings, but definitely new heads. I notice more sick and dying suncorals for sale than I do fit and healthy. Coral skeletons should be brightly colored the same as the polyps.

One thing I did notice is that left in the light the yellows were slowly encrusted by coralline algae which may have hastened their demise. Since they are normally in the dark they have not real defense against encrouching corals is my guess.

I would definitely say med to high flow is recommended to help them feed naturally. I did a liquid coral food feeding to the tank about 10 to 15 mins before generall feeding so as to get the polyps open and primed to collect solid food leftovers from the tank feeding.

Just my 2 cents worth. O.k. maybe more like a nickel
 

framerguy

Well-Known Member
Here is a photo of my porites and worms

poritesandworms.jpg


Imagine that rock one year ago covered in orange and blue worms. All of the orange ones and most of the blue ones perished in the crash and Three blues and one white worm remain. I believe the blues are Spirobranchus giganteus but I'm not a worm expert (or any kind of expert really). I don't feed them directly, I probably should because this guy...
Sabellastartemagnifica.jpg

Sabellastarte magnifica I do feed with DT's phyto and he is flourishing. Both kinds of worms are in high flow areas, especially Mr. Magnifica. I believe the Spiro g's are getting some phyto also because I turn off the skimmer from 10pm-2am and feed between 10:45pm-11pm. I also feed a very small portion to the fish at 9am. I am running a fairly large refugium (55g) as well which I think helps. Any other Q's let me know.

Do you (or anyone) think I should be feeding the Christmas Tree worms directly with phyto? I don't want to put much in the tank because I got a nasty algae bloom because of it once. I use 1 tsp/night. I wonder if I fed them would they multiply...
 
jnohs:
Thank you! Only tentacles are bent - it's quite indicative for a making a proper flow.
Mine usually had slightly less:

Will adjust.

If you don't mind, amount of food - teaspoon once a day (size of tank?), 2-3 cubes? I have to have some reference amount, you understand.
You see, NPS gorgonians can grow, but very few people are willing to talk about it and give a chance to all others try the same. Will appreciate this.

vdituri:
Thank you, and can you tell me more about kinds of sun corals? You see, I know about them by color (greenish-black T. micranthus, black T. diaphana, but all orange and yellow are always listed together - Tubastrea coccinea, T. faulkneri and T. aurea). I would like to know, how distinguish them, and what the difference is between usual orangeish sun coral with low skeleton and lemon-yellow sun coral with high skeleton - they are visibly different, no need in microscopical examination ;)

My first, orange sun was acquired healthy, and continue to be so, good specimen for a start really helps. But recovery is still possible even in bad cases, where only the part of live tissue is remaining (it was on sun baby, not adult coral).
My second, yellow sun (T. aurea? guessing here), was like this in the first days:

Photo from Nov17,07.
This - Feb 02, 08 - 2.5 months later:


The only difference between orange and yellow was that yellow closed at first, when flow was off for a feeding, then adapted, and it had indigestion from the homemade blend, good for everyone else in the tank, including the orange sun. Had to feed pure Ocean Plankton, Mysis and chopped krill, shrimp and fish, no mixes.
It took one container feeding to make it open to feed, since then - in the tank twice a week feedings, 1 cube maybe - I'm mixing for all suns together.

Also always opens, time or not, when a pinch of dry Cyclop-eeze is dropped into the tank (90g) :)

framerguy:
Thank you! Gorgeous creatures. We have the same kind of Christmas tree rock. Only mine, that survived the toxic tank crash, bleached and regained color (all worms still alive) had the adult worms - crowns has ~6 rotations. Again, guessing about adult state, but seems logical.

Can I ask about intermittent skimming: how fast skimmer resumes making skimmate, hours or half of hour?

About feeding phyto - tried twice feed ESV dried phytoplankton to the tank, not corals, always get problem with water quality too. The good thing is, that it likely not necessary - mine lives on zooplankton for 1.5 yrs, no target feeding, the whole tank is fed. The worms, having 3/4" high crowns, are big enough to eat cyclop-eeze, in my understanding, but the for the small ones - other rocks - I'm giving ZoPlan (for you Golden Pearls or Roti-Feast could be more readily available), frozen rotifers, frozen baby brine sometimes, small particles, left after washing fish food.
My 2 cents ;)

Keep it coming!
 

Terri

Member
Ok don't laugh, i had trouble with my sun coral so i put it in a bowl on my lap , while watching tv I feed it with a baster keep spitting BBS at for a hr a night. after the 2nd night it came out and ate a lot .it,s now in the horse food dish half way up the tank it grabs mysis before the horse can get it. It eats 3 times a day and is getting big. i want to move it but it pouts when i've tried.
 
I did the same in the first days for y sun too, only the food was much bigger - mysis and ocean plankton :)
It grows faster on a bigger amount of meaty food (1-2 per mouth).
Mine grows the soft tissue around the rock, and then grows skeleton - may be yours attached itself too. Theoretically, it could be teared away or undercut, but there is always chance of infection.
 

JT101

Member
Non-Photosynt:

I would be more than happy to share with you my "chronicles" about my sun coral.

I have a single "head", about 35 polyps in all, that I got last summer. Initially, not knowing ANYTHING about sun corals, I didn't even feed it. It never opened, day or night. Then one day I learned about their tendency towards nocturnal feedings, so I took a SeaSquirt (which I consider ABSOLUTELY MANDATORY for keeping these things) and started to squirt a little defrosted Cyclop-Eez towards the closed polyps. I walked away. About 15 mins later I noticed all the polyps were fully opened! I came back and squirted a judicious over each polyp. Each time I did, I noticed that it would close all its tentacles over itself - it was finally feeding!

As time went on, I started to realize that cyclops alone would present a very one-sided diet, so I decided to supplement with mysis shrimp. Problem was: How to deliver the goods without polluting my entire tank? I decided to use a long plastic aquatic gardening tool that allowed me to individually place a shrimp into each polyp. Granted, this is a pain with fish constantly trying to steal everything you lower into the tank, but this kind of heavy feeding is something you only need to do once a week.

As far as light goes, I have an AP24 with the "measly" 64W PC's (I am planning on upgrading to a 144W kit from nanotuners.com) so in my situation it would be very difficult to provide TOO much light.

Today, this coral has sprouted about 8-9 new tiny little polyps all over the perimeter of the colony and I am considering fragging it.

It is a beautiful species of coral that, admittedly, demands a lot from the owner but it's a very colorful addition to a reef tank.
 

JT101

Member
My black tubstra died a slow death. And my sun coral is still dying a very slow death with only 2 polyps still alive of about 20. I have put it in the sand a little under a rock, somewhat in the shade. The tank this coral is in is crawling with coupious amount of amphapods and copapods alike. And still is withering away. Much slower then orignally though. I tried target feeding but it is just to slow of an eater.The hermit crabs get the food from this thing. It is so slowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. I do not understand how this thing survives in the wild.

I'm sorry about your black & sun corals. They are difficult to feed. You almost have to be "in the right place at the right time", in other words, catch them when they are open and feed them before they close. Case in point: One night the wife was out somewhere, so I was running around getting the twins ready for bed. I ran the bath for them and just before I was ready to put them in it, I ran downstairs just to check and noticed that the sun was fully open. OK, it had been a few days since I fed it and I knew that tonight was the night, so I said "No problem, they should still all be open and waiting when I get back". OK, give the boys a bath (they're 5), get them dressed and in bed, read them a quick story, lights out - didn't take too long. Wnet downstairs and - guess what? All the polyps were closed. I tried to coax them open anyway with a shot of Cyclop-Eez but no luck - had to wait until the next night!!

Anyway, sorry about that boring story, but the trick is to take any opportunity to feed them as much as you can without, of course, polluting your tank. This means if they happen to open up one evening soon after it's "lights out" in your tank, then you have to get right to it ASAP otherwise I think the polyps get a little "disappointed" and close up (I have been up at all hours of the night to go fishing and often check my tank while I'm on the way out - I have never seen ANY of my sun coral's polyps open in the middle of the night after they have closed earlier).

As far as polyp closing speed, I've not seen that to be an issue, even with mysis as soon as it touches the tentacles it seems to get "glued" to it and gets retracted into the polyp almost immediately. I think crabs in a tank are a problem, sorry to say that. I took all my hermits back to my LFS, they are simply too aggressive and don't give sessiles a chance.
 
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:bouncer:
Strange thing - I have only twice less light, but my sun come to eat during the day time.
And just like your, do not opens for a long time after closing without being fed.
 

JT101

Member
:bouncer:
Strange thing - I have only twice less light, but my sun come to eat during the day time.
And just like your, do not opens for a long time after closing without being fed.

I actually did the "daylight training" with my sunny but got lazy and forgot to keep at it, so I guess after a while it decided "hey, I'm not gettin' any food during the daylight, might as well go back to my old ways" ;)

What about black tubastreas? My LFS had a small one recently, didn't get it. Are the polyps actually black, or is that just the skeleton they refer to when describing the color?
 

built4fun1

New Member
See the article in last months Reef Keeping Magazine, Chuck and Amy are members of CSEA Cleveland Saltwater Enthusiasts Association Chucks Tank is awsome unfortunately he is not very computer savy so his posts are counted on one hand. Ericsmacks another member is keeping some now and does post alot. Ask him, he is a good friend of Chucks and probably can tell you a lot. They are both on reef central in the clubs forum.
 

vdituri

Well-Known Member
Hey JT, I have a couple black suns. When the polyps are fully extended they are more of a maroon color. By far my most favorite.
Are the reds actually red? I've seen shades of orange and pink.

This pic is from a while ago, the skeleton is now almost black.
Alot darker than this pic.
 

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My black sun, another rescue attempt, seems to be T. diaphana:
Mar03_08.jpg

Feb2908_2opened.jpg

Was more slow to open, than the orange and pure yellow tubastreas, but now is finally ready to open for a feedings.

I had seen posts and webpages with red and really pink tubastrea (or maybe denrophyllia) - look similar by the shape. Keeper said, that the color didn't disappeared with time, so it wasn't dyed. Never seen them in LFS.
 

chum

Member
Love those sun corals. I have two colonies which have survived over 3 years and are doing great on being target fed about twice weekly. I have to wait until they are extended, usually after feeding a little brine shrimp in the tank, they come alive. Then i turn the current and lights off and feed in absolute darkness or else the tang, clarki, and cleaner shrimp will molest. I use a turkey baster syringe and a flashlight. I wait about 15 minutes, then turn current and lights back on and the fish gobble up the left overs. I got rid of my hermit crabs long ago, as they were too mean to the sunnies.
 

jnohs

Member
it has been 5 months since i wrote this thread. i have started a much better feeding regime. dt phyto, marine snow, microvert, cyclopezze, mysis, daphnia, oyster eggs.

my tank has matured a lot since then. i purchased an oyster with a carnation coral on it. and to my suprise there was 6 sun polyps on the bottom that have now grown to about 10 or 11. i dont feed them at all they are growing on there own. my gorgonians and sponges are growing very fast now. the biggest thing i realised that was probably the biggest down fall of my nonphoto corals was simply not feeding enough. i feed every day now over the course of 3-4 hours. i put some microvert in almost every time i go near the tank. then when i go get dt's and my home made chilly i put it in a cup with some tank water and dump a little in every couple of minuites. then what i do is on the last little bit i wait untill i have to pee in the middle of the night and then dump it in then. every thing is now growing. thank god.
 

funkpolice

Active Member
I have a colony of approx. 75 sun corals. I feed them a small amount of cyclopeeze, and one cube of mysis shrimp every day. I feed them at kind of random times, and they are open almost 24 hrs a day. I've been getting lots of new polyps, so I guess I'm feeding them well. Although I've heard otherwise, I think they may have common stomachs, as some polyps I'm not able to reach with the turkey baster have grown significantly. I haven't had the colony very long, about two months, but it looks a whole lot healthier now, than when I bought it. I would love to see a picture or two of your scleronephthya, I'm very interested in keeping one.
suncoral7-9.jpg

bill
 
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