Another Micro bubble question on a new tank(with pictures)

[LEBO]

Hello All.
I'm familar with the site, been using it for a while but can't seem to come up with an answer for a bubble issue I have with a 75g that I just set up.

Like stated it is a 75g with a CPR CS100 overflow(800 gph rated) plummed down with 1" pvc for the drain.(The drain does not have a ball valve) The return is a Mag Drive 9.5 with 3/4" pvc that is Tee'd to a conitious loop return to the DT. The 'loop' has holes drilled in it to dristribute water into all areas of the tank. The return has two ball valves. One to close off water flow completely and the other as a 'pump overflow' or whatever you want to call it. Pump drain off, maybe that's a better word.

Now I've tried cutting back in the flow to the DT but that has not resulted in any good results.

What I'm not sure if it's turbulence from the "T" in the return pipe or the micro bubbles are being sucked up from the sump. My return in the sump has bubbles like a mad man. Not sure if a ball valve would fix that? The drain line is under the water level.

Now the tank was set up on Aug 16th so I know that it doesn't need time to "set in". I'm not looking for answers like that. I don't mean to be rude but I read through a bunch of responses in previous posts and the tank is 'set in.'

This is the water in the tank. The white dots are bubbles. You can see the holes I have in the PVC for the water to exit.

Water coming into sump.

Plumbing when I set up the tank.

FTS before Cycle

FTS after a Month with lots of fern like algae.

Thanks

 

[jjmoneyman]

I would like to address a few things. Do you have a filter sock on your drain into the sump? That has helped me A LOT when in comes to bubbles. If you turn your skimmer off do the bubble go away? If so then it maybe skimmer related.

In regards to your return. I like your idea with the holes in the PVC but they do scare me a little because they are so small. I would be worried about algae or calc or something of the like clogging them down the road.

Your tank is looking nice but that algae has gotta go. Increasing the flow should help. On a tank that size I'd throw in a couple of Koralia 750's or 1050's. In my 125 I have 4 Koralias totaling 3550 gph and that doesn't include my return. A good CUC will definitely help, and I would suggest John at reefcleaners.org (he is the best). I've got snails everywhere in my tank and I never ever see algae on my rock work. A few are good, but a lot are better. Always look at your water makeup, do you have a RO/DI unit or getting water from your LFS? Test the water before you add it to the tank to make sure it is good.

I hope this helps and keep up the good work. I look forward to seeing your tank progress.

 

[LEBO]

JJ,
No I am not currently running a filter sock. I will get some soon. Skimmer has no effect. I think the majority of them might be coming from the drain tube.

For flow I do have an MJ1200 in addition to the return pump. I have a BC14 that I will be transplant from, so I will have more power heads.

CUC is slowing being added from LFS
20 "reef" hermits
6 Narissus Snails (SP?)
4 Asteria Snails
They were out of turbos, that will be next.

I have a Ocean +1 from TheFilterGuys so 0 TDS water is not an issue. Meter says 0 everytime I make water.

Water Parameters Using an AP test kit
Salinity 1.02 (Low I know. When I set up the tank I kept it low since I would be flushing most of it down the drain with water changes. Topping off w/ salt water to increase)
Nitrates 0
Ammonia .5
Temp 78-80
Checked Calc 2 weeks ago and that was at 360. I'm assuiming so due to a Salinity of 1.016 that week. Didn't check last night but should be up.

 

[BLADEYAMAHA]

Trochus Snails if they fall are supposed to turn themselves back upright-FYI=Higher cost, but less snails lost. I had that type of algae once and a very determined Kole Tang I had mowed most of it down, however I've been told most tangs won't touch it. If you plan on keeping corals get used to keeping the Specific Gravity at around 1.025 fro SPS Corals or 1.023 for LPS Corals, if its going to be a FOWLR tank 1.021. Using a good salt mix like Red Sea's Coral Pro Salt will help a lot for parameters. I don't know what it is called but a pipe that will allow air to mix with the water flowing from the over flow might get rid of those bubble in the drain tube, I'm not sure how else to explain it. It is common in hard piping set ups in RR applications, a friend that custom built systems for customers used this method. There is more than one way to do it. A filter pad in the bubble trap always helps in a sump or refuge. To control water flow always use gate valves. For shut-offs use ball valves.

 

[BLADEYAMAHA]

The air pipe I wrote about is called a stand pipe. In my opinion there is more than one kind of stand pipe. I would "Y" one in and have pipe sticking up in the air so water would flow better. Maybe someone has a better opinion on this topic and where to put it, if it would help your situation. The air bubbles may be simply coming from your return design. The use of a filter sock or filter pad in the bubble trap or both will tell you for sure. Working on all of these may help.

 

[LEBO]

On my overflow box I built a durso to control the gurlging noise. There is an air hole in the top to maintain water level in the box/eliminate noise.
I will take pictures when I go home.

I am currently using Reef Crystals. I have been using them in my BC14 for 3 years now. Treated me well. And yes I'm bringing the salt level up to 1.023-.025 like in my cube. That's why I'm topping off with salt water.

Thanks.