garylee9121
New Member
my question is how many fish can i keep in a 75 gallon tank im running a sump with a protine skimmer and bio balls and a 300gph canister filter id also love to keep corals and inverts in my tank too
amount of fish to tank size
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garylee9121
New Member
also i have live rock and live sand too in my tank right now just dont knwo what else to add or how many
may2024
Member
That’s not an easily answered question. There are a lot of factors that would need to be considered. Like how much and what type of coral, What type of fish are you interested in keeping they all start small but a lot of them don’t stay that way. Some fish don’t do well with coral some fish don’t do well with other fish. Point is do a lot of research before you start buying livestock it will save you a small fortune. There are some really good books available you can get them used for very little.(Examples below) If there is something that you really wanted in your tank start there and find out what goes or gets along good with that.
The Marine Reef Aquarium by Philip Hunt (2008, Hardcover) 5.99 free shipping ebay
Marine Reef Aquarium Handbook 14.66 free shipping ebay
The Marine Reef Aquarium by Philip Hunt (2008, Hardcover) 5.99 free shipping ebay
Marine Reef Aquarium Handbook 14.66 free shipping ebay
garylee9121
New Member
the fish i was thinking of getting are a dwarf Flame Angelfish,yellow tang,pair or two of clownfish a goby and a cleaner shrimp
garylee9121
New Member
and corals and inverts that can mix with them
may2024
Member
I don’t know how the dwarf angle would do in a reef tank every place I have ever looked at them they are listed as with caution for reef compatibility. (For this reason I have never had one.) Both the Tang and the Angelfish are both semi-aggressive and may or may not get along. As for the Tang LiveAquaria.com lists 100 gallons as the recommended minimal tank size. I know people who have kept them in tanks smaller than 75 though they were well established tanks. (more than 6 months). The rest of the things on your list look fine for reef tanks the Tang is also reef safe just make sure your tank is well established and stable before adding one. As for the coral stick with the easy stuff for a little while like Mushrooms & Polyps or Toadstool Mushroom Leather just to name a few. Inverts start with a standard cleaning crew for a 75 they go in first. Go slow have fun and read read read. I'm building a 75 reef right now to replace my 55 with check it out if get a chance I welcome input and ideas.
The only stupid question is the one you don’t ask.
The only stupid question is the one you don’t ask.
major fish
Member
I have a flame angel in my 190L tank and it doesn't pay the slightest attention to any of the corals. Algae on the glass or rocks is what it is into nibbling on. Shows no aggression to any other fish.
Tangs are another issue. I do have my mimic tang in this tank as my wife pulled it out of our large tank when another tang had it pinned down and was ripping the life out of it. They recommend a minimum of a 4ft tank for a tang, however, I would dispute even that as being too small for a full grown tang. Depending on how the aqua scape was done, of course.
Although the mimic is probably only 40% full grown, I can notice a massive difference in its behaviour in the smaller 190L tank. A little more territorial than it was in the bigger tank. It only heads fish off, though and doesn't get alongside to use its caudal spine. The biggest point I can note is that it does not open swim for distance in this smaller tank or do any swimming at speed.
It is feeding just as much, grazing just as much. The conditioning of it is spot on, in fact it is probably now the best looking tang which I have.
I guess that as no two fish are the same, you might be able to get a small tang in your tank and be prepared to move it later to another home. This may mean you need to dismantle your tank to remove it.
Tangs are another issue. I do have my mimic tang in this tank as my wife pulled it out of our large tank when another tang had it pinned down and was ripping the life out of it. They recommend a minimum of a 4ft tank for a tang, however, I would dispute even that as being too small for a full grown tang. Depending on how the aqua scape was done, of course.
Although the mimic is probably only 40% full grown, I can notice a massive difference in its behaviour in the smaller 190L tank. A little more territorial than it was in the bigger tank. It only heads fish off, though and doesn't get alongside to use its caudal spine. The biggest point I can note is that it does not open swim for distance in this smaller tank or do any swimming at speed.
It is feeding just as much, grazing just as much. The conditioning of it is spot on, in fact it is probably now the best looking tang which I have.
I guess that as no two fish are the same, you might be able to get a small tang in your tank and be prepared to move it later to another home. This may mean you need to dismantle your tank to remove it.
Here are two ways to look at it, bio load and what's "right" for the fish. Usually 3-5 gallons of water per inch of fish is ok for a reef tank. 3 inches with good equipment and husbandry, 5 in general.
The other side is what's right...... I think the tang is out for the tank but the others are ok. Look for reef safe fish, most online places have them labeled either way.
The other side is what's right...... I think the tang is out for the tank but the others are ok. Look for reef safe fish, most online places have them labeled either way.
The answer is: too many variables to give a good answer. type/consistancy of live rock? Has the tank been fully cycled? How much rock, how much sand, what kind of sand, etc. Too many variables. Aquarium keeping, whether SW of FW is all a controled experiment and comes down to chemistry. Amonia is not your friend, but like the stuff you flush, or the stuff you pickup with the scooper in the back yard, its a byproduct of most living things. You cant avoid it. A tank without amonia is a tank filled with AIR and nothing else. So we come up with ways to deal with the amonia. The live rock/sand will be colonized by bacteria that eat amonia, they give off their own "Stuff" which is nitrites. THis "Stuff" is eaten by other bacteria and they give off Nitrate. Each level of break down is less toxic to marine life, but still has to be dealt with. Closed systems are a paradox. They keep Enclosed that which wasnt designed to be enclosed.
What do we do? age old question, with better answers every year. We place lots of rock and sand, so the bacteria have places to attach and live, We do water changes to keep the "bad Stuff" from building up. We filter the water through GFO/Carbon and other materials to try and remove this "Stuff" We house micro algae, either in the DT or in a seperate "Refugium", or run Algae Scrubbers...in an attempt to allow and encourage growth of things that Eat the "Bad Stuff".
There is no easy answer to your question. The more heavily stocked a tank is, the more that will ahve to be done to remove the "Bad Stuff". Water changes are one method(10-20% as needed) and are SOP Even if all you have is one fish in a 200g tank.
In comes the "Keeping" part of the equasion. We test and monitor our tank, we do research on the critters we want before we buy them, and adjust the Export measures as needed. Understanding biological breakdown is critical to keeping a tank stable, and all your critters healthy.
SO to sum it up. More live rock, good, more sand, not so much. Cycle the tank with all the live rock you intend to add, and get really good at testing the water parameters. Of all the things you might find in your water, Amonia is your top enemy, with Copper being a very close 2nd. Avoid using untested tap water, and run a RO/DI to remove any copper and other bad stuff. Test often. The bigger the system the more stable it will be, but even a 10k gallon system requires testing.
Add livestock Slowly. Add a new fish(Post QT), wait a day or 2 and test for amonia, if you see a spike, its NOT safe to add another. Once the amonia spike goes away, wait a couple more days and adding another should be safe. At some point, depending on how you want to stock, you will get to a point where the amonia spike takes longer than a week to fade. Thats the cut off IMHO. if you want to add more, you have to increase measures to remove "Bad STuff". More rocks, adding a refugium, Media reactors(carbon/gfo are common). Protein skimmers, uv sterilizers, etc.
Bottom line, you have to find out the limits yourself, just go slow. When your system is struggling to process the amonia, you are borderline overstocked.
What do we do? age old question, with better answers every year. We place lots of rock and sand, so the bacteria have places to attach and live, We do water changes to keep the "bad Stuff" from building up. We filter the water through GFO/Carbon and other materials to try and remove this "Stuff" We house micro algae, either in the DT or in a seperate "Refugium", or run Algae Scrubbers...in an attempt to allow and encourage growth of things that Eat the "Bad Stuff".
There is no easy answer to your question. The more heavily stocked a tank is, the more that will ahve to be done to remove the "Bad Stuff". Water changes are one method(10-20% as needed) and are SOP Even if all you have is one fish in a 200g tank.
In comes the "Keeping" part of the equasion. We test and monitor our tank, we do research on the critters we want before we buy them, and adjust the Export measures as needed. Understanding biological breakdown is critical to keeping a tank stable, and all your critters healthy.
SO to sum it up. More live rock, good, more sand, not so much. Cycle the tank with all the live rock you intend to add, and get really good at testing the water parameters. Of all the things you might find in your water, Amonia is your top enemy, with Copper being a very close 2nd. Avoid using untested tap water, and run a RO/DI to remove any copper and other bad stuff. Test often. The bigger the system the more stable it will be, but even a 10k gallon system requires testing.
Add livestock Slowly. Add a new fish(Post QT), wait a day or 2 and test for amonia, if you see a spike, its NOT safe to add another. Once the amonia spike goes away, wait a couple more days and adding another should be safe. At some point, depending on how you want to stock, you will get to a point where the amonia spike takes longer than a week to fade. Thats the cut off IMHO. if you want to add more, you have to increase measures to remove "Bad STuff". More rocks, adding a refugium, Media reactors(carbon/gfo are common). Protein skimmers, uv sterilizers, etc.
Bottom line, you have to find out the limits yourself, just go slow. When your system is struggling to process the amonia, you are borderline overstocked.
