90g show + 90g sump
- Thread starter aqujoe247
- Start date
aqujoe247
Member
Actually Wit,
I got into this hobby because my wife was tired of me spending money on car audio/video, who would of known this would be more expensive.
SLB I haven't had a chance to join yet, been busy rattlin my brain about this room:bouncebox . As soon as I get a chance I swing by.
Anyone have any ideas on how to make things a lil more easier to maintain (remember i'm in a condo, so I can only do so much), such as things you wish you would have did before setting your tanks up? I am trying to cover all bases.
I got into this hobby because my wife was tired of me spending money on car audio/video, who would of known this would be more expensive.
SLB I haven't had a chance to join yet, been busy rattlin my brain about this room:bouncebox . As soon as I get a chance I swing by.
Anyone have any ideas on how to make things a lil more easier to maintain (remember i'm in a condo, so I can only do so much), such as things you wish you would have did before setting your tanks up? I am trying to cover all bases.
Witfull
Well-Known Member
ok,,lets see here,,,the tank infront of the window is going to be your reef tank, the tank to the left,,is that staying or being removed? if so,,are you going to keep the 90 in its current location? or move it to the left? another option is to angle it in the corner, improved visibility to the rest of house.
draw the room out in different layouts. think rethink and then ponder. its easier to make changes on paper than trying to move a tank. another thing i find handy is a plastic toolbox for assorted reefing tools and test kits...makes storage and clean up easier.
draw the room out in different layouts. think rethink and then ponder. its easier to make changes on paper than trying to move a tank. another thing i find handy is a plastic toolbox for assorted reefing tools and test kits...makes storage and clean up easier.
aqujoe247
Member
Thanks for the input Wit, the 55g would be removed for the room completely and the 90g I would there because it can be seen the best in it's current position. The 55g can only be seen once you're in the room or if your on the couch, which is on the opposite wall of the 55g but in the living room.
I was thinking of adding a cabinet to the stand, maybe the same height as the hood on the tank would be. In it I could store all the accessories on the top two shelves, on the bottom would be room for the drain can(35g) and the back-up system I plan on making, Optimum deep-cycle battery, power converter (toys from car audio/video systems), rapid battery charger and signal transmitter. I also want to make an auto-topoff system, how much am I looking at for the topoff?
I was thinking of adding a cabinet to the stand, maybe the same height as the hood on the tank would be. In it I could store all the accessories on the top two shelves, on the bottom would be room for the drain can(35g) and the back-up system I plan on making, Optimum deep-cycle battery, power converter (toys from car audio/video systems), rapid battery charger and signal transmitter. I also want to make an auto-topoff system, how much am I looking at for the topoff?
addict
Well-Known Member
Heya Joe,
Things are looking good.
Topoff systems vary in both price and complexity... usually the more complex you make the topoff system, the more expensive it gets.
In my case, my topoff consists of a float switch in the sump wired into a power cord, that turns on a powerhead in a 10g fish tank to top off the tank... total cost is probably around $50... $20 for the MJ-1200 powerhead, $10 for the fish tank and $20 for the float switch/power cord.
One thing I don't recommend is plumbing your RO/DI system directly into your tank for top-off via a solenoid activated by a float switch... I've seen several instances where the float switch or solenoid failed and people diluted their tank drastically and had a very large flood in their house... it's a lot safer to have a fixed-capacity container so that at most you suffer a minor flood and don't run the risk of diluting your tank by that much. Of course this means you'll have to fill the container manually from time to time, but it sure beats the consequences.
Things are looking good.
Topoff systems vary in both price and complexity... usually the more complex you make the topoff system, the more expensive it gets.
In my case, my topoff consists of a float switch in the sump wired into a power cord, that turns on a powerhead in a 10g fish tank to top off the tank... total cost is probably around $50... $20 for the MJ-1200 powerhead, $10 for the fish tank and $20 for the float switch/power cord.
One thing I don't recommend is plumbing your RO/DI system directly into your tank for top-off via a solenoid activated by a float switch... I've seen several instances where the float switch or solenoid failed and people diluted their tank drastically and had a very large flood in their house... it's a lot safer to have a fixed-capacity container so that at most you suffer a minor flood and don't run the risk of diluting your tank by that much. Of course this means you'll have to fill the container manually from time to time, but it sure beats the consequences.
aqujoe247
Member
Wats up Dave:whstlr: ,
I don't have R/O units so don't have to worry, but I do have an extra 10g around here somewhere. I don't want anything complex, im pretty simple minded .
I think I will be using a 55g as a sump so I still have room for other things in the stand, like shelves on the door and a seperate refugium so the flow into it is minimum.
Sorry for the disappointment, I figured i'll appreciate in the long run.
I don't have R/O units so don't have to worry, but I do have an extra 10g around here somewhere. I don't want anything complex, im pretty simple minded
. I think I will be using a 55g as a sump so I still have room for other things in the stand, like shelves on the door and a seperate refugium so the flow into it is minimum.
Sorry for the disappointment, I figured i'll appreciate in the long run.
Craig Manoukian
Well-Known Member
aqujoe247 said:
Looks like the cat beat you to it!:columbo:
Sounds like a great project, keep us updated with photos.
addict
Well-Known Member
aqujoe247 said:
No disappointment here.
I think actually running a separate refugium is a better idea, since it makes things more modular.
I only made the suggestion about the RO/DI topoff because I figured it was something you might come across in your searching, and I just wanted to let you know (in advance) that the potential problems with that type of setup far outweigh the minor convenience of not having to fill an external holding tank a couple times a week.
But like I said, things sound great so far!
cool,
i have not gone either.....:rollingey
good luck with the setup, i saw a good way to complete an inexpensive and (temp) setup that looks great is to build a mid wall next to the tank and finish it off to match the walls. it lookd like a short wall, but you put all of your sump/refugium, whatever in it and you can use it as a seat. (for all of the time gazing into your tank...just a thought. oh yea, you can texture and pait to match the walls yet just secure it with 2-3 screws, so you can easily remove it
i have not gone either.....:rollingey
good luck with the setup, i saw a good way to complete an inexpensive and (temp) setup that looks great is to build a mid wall next to the tank and finish it off to match the walls. it lookd like a short wall, but you put all of your sump/refugium, whatever in it and you can use it as a seat. (for all of the time gazing into your tank...just a thought. oh yea, you can texture and pait to match the walls yet just secure it with 2-3 screws, so you can easily remove it