Yellow Tang not eating, color change
- Thread starter Quantrill
- Start date
Thanks Blakejohn. I appreciate the suggestion on the Rod's. (finally a real suggestion besides "read the manual") Anything I can have the wife pickup at the grocery store? I've read feed Nori, like you get at the grocery store and yet I've read as many posts that say not to. I'll see what the LFS has as far the Rod's. The dried micro algae I've been using is the Ocean Nutrition stuff.
I feed my tangs Sallys Seaweed Salad sheets, Rods roasted and unrosted seaweed sheets and frozen Rods food. That is all they get and they are very healthy. If you pick up the frozen rods food you should see them begin to eat. Once they start eating well and you dont see an increase in health then you will need to look into other options such as infections.
But the rods food will not be a waste of money for you and it is a step in the right direction.
As for food at the grocery store. pretty much if it is made for our cunsumption then it is not good for our fish.
But the rods food will not be a waste of money for you and it is a step in the right direction.
As for food at the grocery store. pretty much if it is made for our cunsumption then it is not good for our fish.
well dang, he's still not eating, at least not that I've seen. I just gave him a real close look and his fins look a tiny bit ragged around the edges. Nothing terrible as I had to look REALLY close. I've got a 20T that I set up a couple months ago that I was going to use as a QT tank. I haven't had a need to use it yet. when I set it up, I used 50% old water from my DT to set it up so, hopefully there's still some beneficial bacteria in there. Should I move him over and get some antibiotics? I'm not seeing any other signs of illness. I use to use melafix when I was raising freshwater angels. Would that maybe help? Getting more concerned. All the other fish look great.
At this point, I don't see a reason for moving the fish to a quarantine tank.
Sometimes a 'shock' will bring them out of his condition. I'd like you to perform a very large (over 75% if you can manage it) water change. Since this is such a large water change, please follow these guidelines: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...7-how-make-safe-water-change-marine-fish.html
Before you mix the salt and get ready to make the change, do investigate and verify that your source water is pure. If you use RO/DI, take a TDS reading, for instance. Is there carbon on the RO/DI product? Also check the water for any ammonia and/or nitrites. Be suspicious of the source water.
I can't see any grounds for an antibiotic treatment at this time. Your experience with Melafix (and their other, Pimafix) is very good for freshwater. I've know it to do well with FW. But the results aren't the same with SW. Please read this: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...-melafix-pimafix-why-they-work-dont-work.html
If the fish is going to respond to the water change the response should be within 36 hours.
Sometimes these fish are collected poorly and they are not acclimated well. If this fish is in this category, then life in captivity rarely lasts beyond a year.
Sometimes a 'shock' will bring them out of his condition. I'd like you to perform a very large (over 75% if you can manage it) water change. Since this is such a large water change, please follow these guidelines: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...7-how-make-safe-water-change-marine-fish.html
Before you mix the salt and get ready to make the change, do investigate and verify that your source water is pure. If you use RO/DI, take a TDS reading, for instance. Is there carbon on the RO/DI product? Also check the water for any ammonia and/or nitrites. Be suspicious of the source water.
I can't see any grounds for an antibiotic treatment at this time. Your experience with Melafix (and their other, Pimafix) is very good for freshwater. I've know it to do well with FW. But the results aren't the same with SW. Please read this: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...-melafix-pimafix-why-they-work-dont-work.html
If the fish is going to respond to the water change the response should be within 36 hours.
Sometimes these fish are collected poorly and they are not acclimated well. If this fish is in this category, then life in captivity rarely lasts beyond a year.
I wish the change was larger.
Then at this point I would follow through with moving the fish to a quarantine tank (you can use DT water to start if you want, but then after just new water for water changes).
Treat in the hospital tank with antibiotic. I would choose Maracyn Two for Saltwater fish (which BTW has an appetite stimulant in it). If you can't get this, then Maracyn Two for freshwater fishes will be okay to use.
With this particular antibiotic I recommend doubling the dosage that is recommended on the package. I would not recommend doubling up on any other antibiotic.
Then at this point I would follow through with moving the fish to a quarantine tank (you can use DT water to start if you want, but then after just new water for water changes).
Treat in the hospital tank with antibiotic. I would choose Maracyn Two for Saltwater fish (which BTW has an appetite stimulant in it). If you can't get this, then Maracyn Two for freshwater fishes will be okay to use.
With this particular antibiotic I recommend doubling the dosage that is recommended on the package. I would not recommend doubling up on any other antibiotic.
Thanks Lee! He's looking a little better today. Not near as pinched around the belly. There was almost a full sheet of algae in tank when I went to bed (left over from the evening feeding), it was gone his morning. I'm starting to wonder if he's eating at night. I'm starting to wonder if the Blue Tang is messing with him. They usually get along but I've seen them both chase each other if one is in the others spot. The Blue tang attacked the turkey baster today while I was feeding. Probably unlikely but, I can't think of anything else that could be stressing him out. BTW I wish I could have done a bigger WC too. Definitely upgrading my WC gear after Christmas!
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Could be! Picked up some Entice today and soaked all the food in it. The yellow tang will swim right up next to the micro algae that is soaked in Entice but won't touch it. The LFS dude suggested I could even QT the YT in the Sump. The Blue tang was real timid when I got him but, I think he may be finally getting comfortable, as in TOO comfortable and is starting to be a butthead! Right now the only interaction I'm seeing between the two is, the BT occasionally swimming up to the YT. The Rods Fish Only Blend I ordered didn't not come in and probably won't until January because apparently, it's not available through the LFS normal wholesaler. He's still swimming around a good bit, I hate to stress him any further by trying to catch him and QT him. BTW the BT damaged one of his scalpulae when he attacked the turkey baster.
Well crap, ammonia levels are up today. .5ppm. Looks like I'll be upgrading the WC rig sooner than I thought, as in TODAY. Gonna do a 50% WC and see what happens. Geez I just did a 30 gallon WC Sunday, before that, the ammonia was at .25. WTH? Anyway, wanna make sure I do everything I can before we head to the inlaws for two days. Is it possible the Prime has the ammonia neutralized but it's still showing up when I do a test?
Cool, I never was using the Prime to try and control the ammonia, just to remove Chlorine. We'll see what happens. It ended up being a little better than 50%. Someone told me to use prime back when I was raising fresh water angels. I didn't like it back then either and quit using it, but let the LFS talk me into using it as a dechlorinator when I switched to salt water.
That's the way it used to be. Now in tap water there are:
pesticides
fertilizers
prescription drugs
recreational drugs
plant poisons
human and animal wastes
land contamination
manufacturing pollutants
etc.
The water is marginally safe for human consumption, but not to keep marine lifeforms in.
More info here:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/chem.htm
Anyone who uses tap water in marine husbandry, even treated to remove chlorine, shouldn't be surprised that their marine life is having problems. After spending a fair amount of money and inviting the lives of creatures into one's life, then to proceed to use cheap, polluted water isn't obviously the sharpest knife in the drawer.
That's why, BLAKEJOHN I didn't post any response to Quantrill's post. But I hope BLAKEJOHN you will understand that tap water is way far from good quality water beyond just chlorine content. Also note that many municipalities have changed the form of chlorine they use such that an open container of tap water will no longer loose any appreciable amount of chlorine content. That was a big deal some 20+ years ago when chlorinate compounds replaced chlorine -- aquarium hobbyists protested.
That article (linked above) written by Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley is technical but very informative on the subject. Hang in there BLAKEJOHN!
pesticides
fertilizers
prescription drugs
recreational drugs
plant poisons
human and animal wastes
land contamination
manufacturing pollutants
etc.
The water is marginally safe for human consumption, but not to keep marine lifeforms in.
More info here:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/chem.htm
Anyone who uses tap water in marine husbandry, even treated to remove chlorine, shouldn't be surprised that their marine life is having problems. After spending a fair amount of money and inviting the lives of creatures into one's life, then to proceed to use cheap, polluted water isn't obviously the sharpest knife in the drawer.
That's why, BLAKEJOHN I didn't post any response to Quantrill's post. But I hope BLAKEJOHN you will understand that tap water is way far from good quality water beyond just chlorine content. Also note that many municipalities have changed the form of chlorine they use such that an open container of tap water will no longer loose any appreciable amount of chlorine content. That was a big deal some 20+ years ago when chlorinate compounds replaced chlorine -- aquarium hobbyists protested.
That article (linked above) written by Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley is technical but very informative on the subject. Hang in there BLAKEJOHN!