Whip's "new to me" RSM 130

[whip]

Also, since I am going bare bottom (at least that is the current plan), each rock has only points touching the glass. I read that this is a good thing as scum can't get trapped beneath them. The points don't seem to do anything to the bottom glass (I was more than a little concerned about that).

For those of you wanting a flat bottom rock, I watched an interesting video of a guy using the rough concrete on his driveway to "sand" the points off of the rock to make them sit flush to the bottom of the tank. I didn't take this route or try it, but it seemed like good information to share for those of you wanting nice sturdy bases for your rock work.

 

[whip]

I have been watching this guy on YouTube create a journal of a 200 gallon reef tank (I think he is up to 50+ episodes now) and this guy is a wealth of information. This is where I snagged the ideas to dimple the epoxy and sand the bottom of the rock with a concrete driveway.

Enjoy...

 

[Desmond]

Great thread look forward to following this , i like your rock

 

[Pat24601]

Cool rock. Sanding it idea is cool. I never thought of that.

 

[whip]

Hope no one minds, but I am going to use this thread as a journal during my cycle. It'll help me keep track of things and maybe help others along their journey.

If you see something funky, please let me know. I could use all the help possible (especial if you see something I am doing that isn't good).

 

[whip]

Day 1:

Added premixed saltwater (Nutri-Seawater) for no other reason other than I am not prepared to make my own from scratch.

Set temperature to 77 degrees.

Haven't started up the MP10 yet. I am just using the upgraded RSM single pump.

Stocked In-Tank media basket with PhosGuard, carbon, and filter floss.



Added two deli shrimp.

This is a dry rock only cycle in a barebottom tank. From everything I have read, this cycle will be a marathon.

This will be a no light cycle.

Will tune ATO and skimmer tomorrow (I'm tired).

One really cool thing I noticed was my Fluval E-Series backlit heater display shows through the smacked glass back chamber glass. I try to get a good photo of it (it's blinking blue because it is at 58 degrees). It will turn green when it his 77 degrees. I guess I should have saved my money instead of spending it on my temp probe. Oh well, live and learn.

 

[whip]

If there is a good thing about barebottom, no cloudy water would be one of them.

 

[whip]

Day 2 (4/17/15)

Temp: 77.5
Ph: 7.8
Ammonia: 2.0
Nitrites: 1
Nitrates: 40

 

[whip]

Started up MP10 and skimmer.

I noticed I was getting a lot of condensate under the hood last night, so I turned the good fan on. Worked great as I noticed the underside of the good was bone dry.

Water is yellowish and my den smells like an unkept fish store. Had to open a window to let it air out a bit. I am running carbon. I'm surprised I can still smell it. Oh, well. That's what they make doors and windows for.

 

[whip]

I wanted to check phosphates as I had read BRS Pukani rock tened to release a lot. If you noticed earlier, I added PhosGuard on Day 1 to counter it. I looks like I am running 0.25 ppm.

 

[whip]

I have never ran a skimmer, but I seem to have a lot if micro bubbles around it. They don't make it into the tank, but they are spread across the skimmer chamber. Anyone know anything about this?

 

[Joeys Tank]

Prepare to watch your phosphates fluctuate a bit over the first several months as you start to settle in with your tank.

 

[whip]

Well, I reduced the bubbles coming from the Tunze 9001 by raising the skimmer about 1/2" above the watermark denotes on the skimmer. I also opened the air intake to full open. It is now skimming and not having the micro bubble issue.

 

[Desmond]

Remember that you may not have much in the tank for the skimmer to skim. Tis will mean you will get micro bubbles. I just learned it today i had the same issue.

 

[whip]

Remember that you may not have much in the tank for the skimmer to skim. Tis will mean you will get micro bubbles. I just learned it today i had the same issue.

Good point. Thanks. I adjusted the skimmer earlier today, but I am still getting a few (much less, but still there). I'll heed your comment and patiently adjust as more material is available to skim.

 

[Desmond]

is the level of your water for the returns ok also ? This can cause bubbles.

 

[whip]

is the level of your water for the returns ok also ? This can cause bubbles.

I am not sure what you mean? I'm interested in knowing what you mean by returns.

I can say the level of my rear chambers is stable, but as you can see, it seems low; right?

This is mainly due to the surface skimmer elevation. It kind of "floats" to its highest elevation and stays there (not sure if that was the design of it or not). This allows the display water level to remain just under the plastic rim (which is cool with me), but the rear chambers remain constant at the level you see in the picture above. If I push the surface skimmer down, my rear chambers start to fill up and my main display level starts to drop.

The two chiller ports I have installed are just there because the fitting clips in and has two perfect factory cut outs for my ATO sensor wire and replenishment hose. The ports don't do anything.

 

[whip]

I just measured the water level of the rear chamber and it is 2-1/2" below the top of the glass of the rear chamber? Is that normal?

I can tell you it is stable at that level and the ATO is doing a good job maintaining it. All electronics are submerged (heater, pump, etc.) and I don't have any baffles doing the waterfall thing.

The only "waterfall" I have is at the surface skimmer. I'll try to get a photo of it.

 

[whip]

I guess to do have a water level difference in my rear chambers. The level above my filter floss is at 1-1/2"
below the chamber glass (same as the level seen in the photo below INSIDE my surface skimmer). After the media basket, the water level drops an inch for a total of 2-1/2" below the top of the glass.

It is tough to see in the photo, but the display level is right at the top of the cutouts of the surface skimmer teeth.



This gives me three levels in the tank...

Display Level (0")

Right Chamber (Media Basket): -1.5" from display level

Left and Center Chamber: -2.5" from display level

Is this ok and/or normal?

 

[whip]

Day 4 (4/19/15)

Temp: 77.5
Salt: 1.26
Ph: 8.0
Ammonia: 8.0
Nitrites: 5.0
Nitrates: 20

Ammonia is almost off the chart and nitrites are coming up nicely. I guess I should start to see nitrites continue to trend upwards and see ammonia start to trend down. I wonder how long that takes?

This is day four and I expected the ammonia to take its time reaching high levels. Considering this journey takes at least four to six weeks... I expected to wait longer. Am I to expect things to slow down? Maybe it just takes forever for ammonia and nitrite to go down?

I guess the old adage applies; bad things happen fast and good things take a long time.