when do you change the resin?

fishmama67

Member
I have a RO/DI Plus unit from Bulkreefsupply with duel DI chambers. The first one is about 3/4 brown now but the second chamber is still almost all blue. Anyone know when to change the resin out? I don't want to dump the resin yet if it isn't exhausted but I don't want IT to dump if it is. My TDS meter is readin 75 ppm on the IN side when I first turn it on and then it drops to 24 ppm on the IN side and 0 all the time on the out.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Change the ressin when it is totally changed to all brown, then take the 2nd chamber and put that where the first chamber was, take the first chamber and change that resin out and put it in the second position.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
A nice item to have is a duel in line TDS meter, 1 probe after the first DI and the 2nd after the second, if I remember right they are about $35.00.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Catalyst,
be more specific, were? after the RO membrane? After the DI? What is the TDS's going into the RO? What is the RO rated for as far as GPD?
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Catalyst,
It depends on what your inlet TDS is, if 500 in, and your RO membrane has a 96-98% rejection rate your RO out TDS should be about 10-20 TDS, most 100gpd membranes are only 90% rejection then in this example the out let would be about 50TDS.
 

DrHank

Well-Known Member
What was your initial reading after the DI section with new filters? That is what you are shooting for. Bob has done an excellent job of explaining how the process works. To take it a step further regardless of whether you have pre filters or not, the membrane is going to reduce TDS by 96% (or whatever percentage it's supposed to). The problem is that without the pre filters, the membrane clogs quickly and must be replaced. Also, if your source water is 500, the prefilters may take it down to 300 and the membrane to somewhere between 6 - 12.

The DI resin should pick up the rest which are ions. As the resin is exhausted your TDS starts to edge up. It is completely exhausted by the time it reaches the value of the RO water. You get to decide how much DOC or in this case ions are acceptable. I usually go with double digits as the point I change. When it gets past 10, I change resin.

Hope that helps. Change your pre filters every 6 months to prolong the life of the RO membrane and change your DI resin when the TDS level is no longer acceptable to you. Some hobbiests will say that no reading above 0 is acceptable. To each their own.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Thanks Doc for the compliment!!! I have read when DI out hits about 2TDS it will "dump" most of what it has absorbed very quickly in it's outlet water.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Fish, just read your first question and should have caught it sooner, if I understand it right your Ro out is 75TDS? that is way to high unless it is a 100gpd, 90% rejection rate, so to have that # your inlet water would have to have a TDS of 750, which in some areas not uncommon, Phenix and Tempe AZ from what I read from guys down there on the forums that push a RODI unit down there ther water can run up to 1000TDS. Mine here runs 580. Test your inlet water for TDS do the math, and if in question, call BRS, great customer service.
 

CATALYST

Well-Known Member
This has been very informative. The 75 that he was pushing had me question my own. I just got a new set up with the DI so some this was new to me.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Cat,
I do not understand all. but at BRS you can NOT go wrong with there stuff, or at Buckeye Field Supply or the The Filter Guys, if you have a Dow Flilmtech 75gpd RO membrane at the way they spec it out, at 70*F and 60psi water, you should get 96-98% rejection rate, and 4gal waste to 1gal out put water. Water presure and or temp difference will change this, less will lower it, more will improve it, I think I have a caculator for that, if I do will add it here.
http://buckeyefieldsupply.com/calc.php
It got stuck, and if not should be a "sticky" here, but you know, base on all the questions asked here if they went to the "stickies: andread them they would not need to ask!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

DrHank

Well-Known Member
Bob, I'm not sure about dumping when the resin reaches saturation. When I go back to Chem 101, I recall that when Ions bond (as they would in resin) it's one of the strongest chemical bonds would be formed. I also know that a strong acid (I believe HCl) is used to recharge the resin. To me, that would indicate that it's unlikely to form bonds with the same solute (salt water) that it was extracted from. I'd need some pretty strong evidence to believe that the resin dumps the ions it extracted. Also, as my resin depletes, the TDS increases gradually not all at once.

I think this is most likely rumor which may revolve around he way activated carbon will dump once it has absorbed all it can. I feel that it is important to know what the TDS of the output of the RO stage is to determine how effective the DI resin is and when to replace.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Doc, I can not dispute what you said, as far as "dumping" that is what I have read, maybe Russ will chime in from BRS on that. When I worked for a utility and I worked at a fossil fuel plant, so we used allot of water which for the boilers, it had to be pure, so we had 2 huge DI units, and the Cat resin was recharged with Sodium Hydroxide, the Anion resin got recharged with Acid can not think of what it was, may have been Muriatic.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
BuckeyeFS
RC Sponsor

Registered: Sep 2006
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Occupation: Water Treatment
Posts: 2066



A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called “prefilters”) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ @
Buckeye Field Supply, Ltd.
HM Digital Master Distributor


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