What's wrong with the Kole Tang

O

Orcrone

Member
I've had a Kole Tang in a QT since purchasing from an LFS almost two weeks ago. I've included 2 pictures. He tends to spend most of his time hiding under the sponge filter. I don't know if that could cause an injury. Seems mainly to be on one side of his body. He's eating very well.

IMG_0227.jpg


IMG_0230.jpg


Ammmonia is between 0 reading and the first level up on API kit (0.25) & I've used Seachem Prime.
Nitrite 0
Haven't checked nitrates in a few days. 5 at last check.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Val

Val

Member
Mine hid alot at first and he still likes to race from cave to cave. I really like my Kole because he is so active, he can get into spaces in the rocks that amaze me at times. Interesting fish. It's not unusual for mine to have a small scrape from the racing through the rocks.
 
O

Orcrone

Member
I only have two foam filters, a heater and a PVC pipe (which he rarely goes into) in the tank. I'm hoping that it's just bruising but it doesn't seem likely that he's bruising himself on those items.
 
KARussell88

KARussell88

Member
You don't have any liverock or sand... Is that your quarantine tank?
How big is your tank?
Your only filtration is two foam filters?
What is your salinity, pH, ammonia, etc?
 
O

Orcrone

Member
KARussell88 said:
You don't have any liverock or sand... Is that your quarantine tank?
How big is your tank?
Your only filtration is two foam filters?
What is your salinity, pH, ammonia, etc?
Click to expand...

Most of that info is in the original post. He's in a 20 gallon QT by himself; no live rock or sand. I'm careful about siphoning off some water every day to avoid food rotting on the bottom. Ammonia & nitrite levels are given in the original post. Salinity is at 32 ppt using a calibrated refractometer. pH is about 8.1.
 
KARussell88

KARussell88

Member
Your salinity seems very high from what I've heard, should be more at the .022-.025 range
Not saying thats the problem, just letting you know
It looks like it was scratched or bruised or something
Does it look like his skin is peeling or anything
 
O

Orcrone

Member
You're thinking of specific gravity, which should be 1.021 through 1.026. I gave the measurement in ppt of salinity. 32 ppt corresponds to a specifc gravity of approximately 1.024. Most reefers keep their salinity at 35 ppt.
 
KARussell88

KARussell88

Member
Oh I'm sorry I thought it said parts per million not parts per thousand thats my mistake.
I think hes fine just a little beat up
 
L

leebca

Well-Known Member
Relative to many of the ornamental marine fishes, the Tangs as a group have a thinner mucous coating. When damaged or disrupted, it can lead to patches like you see. Also, since it is so thin, a very stressed fish will slow down its mucous coating production, saving energy to deal with the stressor(s).

Find and reduce any stressor(s) you can. Do now a huge water change and do another huge water change (over 80% using the sticky on how to do this) in 3-4 days.

If it shuns the pipe, it may not be the right size for the fish. (Fish have their own concept of what is and isn't the 'right size.')

Keep the lighting reduced during this time. If you do change anything in the tank, do it in the dark. When the lights are low but good enough for you to see the fish and the fish to see you, spend more time sitting in front of the tank. Time to read a good book!

Have on hand antibiotics in case the fish gets infected. You want a topical antibiotic in this case. I'd say something like NITROFURAZONE (in the product, Furan-2) would be good to have. You can proceed to use it when you acquire the med, if you want. No harm done, although it will most likely adversely affect your biological filter so if the water quality goes belly up during its use, you'll need to some major and frequent water changes to reduce this stressor. Consider this last bit before you decide to use it without need.

IF http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...9-fed-properly-received-proper-nutrition.html the fish should recover on its own. If it worsens, use the antibiotic.
:)
 
O

Orcrone

Member
Thanks everyone for your responses.

Lee, I have Maracyn-2 at home, but not Furan-2. Don't mind purchasing it if necessary. Just wondering if Maracyn-2 would suffice. Also I have a product from API called Stress Coat (I think) at home. Would you recommend using this?

I've been feeding the fish a combination of algae and frozen meaty foods. I soak all the food in a combination of a multivitamin (Vita-chem), vitamin C, garlic and Selcon. He hides when I'm in the room so I don't see him eat, but the food is always gone in short order so I know he's eating well.

I've only seen him inside the PVC pipe once. It's probably a little small. I'll stop at the hardware store and purchase a larger diameter pipe. I'll do the first water change this evening as I didn't see your post until this morning. Last summer I treated my fish for ich in a 55 gallon tank, running back & forth to the LFS to purchase RO water; siphoning large amounts of water from the tank; carrying countless 5 gallon buckets of water. I now have my own RO/DI system along with a 55 gallon container for the freshwater and two 44 gallon containers for storing the saltwater. I have the system hooked up with a pump to deliver the water straight to the tank via a 50 foot hose. I have a refractometer and a portable pH/temperature meter so properly done large water changes are no hassle at all.

IMG_0177.jpg
 
L

leebca

Well-Known Member
Excellent arrangement. Is it really that neat and clean?

Maracyn Two for Saltwater fishes I usually reserve for systemic infections. It is absorbed directly into the fish. This antibiotic is specific for Gram Negative bacteria, which the majority of marine fish infections are. However, the one I suggested attacks both Gram Positive and Gram Negative bacteria (hence the warning about the biological filter). Some topical infections are Gram Positive and include some of the worst of the bacteria infections.

That is my reasoning, the choice is yours. :)

 
O

Orcrone

Member
Hi Lee. Yes it is really that neat and clean. But keep in mind that I just finished it up a couple of days before that pic was taken and it's only been two weeks since the pic was taken. :) I've actually enhanced it somewhat. Coming out of the translucent fresh water container I have a master union/valve. It then splits off to three separate lines; one to each of the saltwater containers and another that I use to fill small containers, each controlled with a separate valve.

I already order the Furan-2 before your post. Might as well use the correct medicine.

Thanks again,
Marc
 
L

leebca

Well-Known Member
With the kind of nutrition the fish is getting (forgot to mention) I wouldn't add anything to the water, like the coating product you mentioned.
 
O

Orcrone

Member
I've done a couple of large water changes but have not used any medications yet. My girlfriend, seeing me sitting in front of the tank playing with my Ipod touch so the fish can get used to me is now convinced I'm crazy. However the fish doesn't look any better. I'm almost halfway through the six week quarantine period and wondering what I should do if the fish shows no change after the quarantine period is over. Do I keep him there longer or put him in the DT?
 
Robzilla

Robzilla

Active Member
I would keep in QT until it shows that it is ready to be in the DT with other fish so that the rest stay free of illness.
 
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