Water quality: Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity and Kudas

V

vsiege

Active Member
I currently have a setup that has been running for a few months. Just recently I picked up a new test kit that included a test for Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity. After testing several times all tests came out darker/higher than the ideal range. The color was actually not on the chart and is way too high.

Whats an expectable range for Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity in respect to seahorses (I have a kuda currently)?

How can I bring down the Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity while maintaining proper ph?

The horse does swim around the tank but often is at the bottom clinging/hiding and at times exhibits panting. While a lot of his behavior seems normal, I would like to see him swimming more and would love to get him a buddy or two when I sort the water quality issues. At this time, I feel the water quality issues could be contributing to his possible respiratory issues.


Current readings:
Nitrate: 0 - 20ppm
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity: > 300ppm
pH: 8 - 8.2 (have the hardest time keeping it here)

Notes:
I use RO/DI water that is produced by myself and mix my own saltwater using Seachem Reef Salt. I have ordered Reef Crystals but am stuck with Seachem for a week at least.
The water is clear and have never had an algae bloom.
Nitrate usually doesnt drop down to 0 but it hovers around 15. I do weekly water changes.
 
D

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I agree with the previous post by tnwilla.

In addition, you mention "pH: 8 - 8.2 (have the hardest time keeping it here)". What have you been doing to maintain pH? It's quite likely that in messing with the pH, anything you added also drastically increased alkalinity.

In that case, moderate water changes are the best way to get things back in line. I'd change about 30% of the water, weekly for about 4 to 6 weeks.

Before you mess with any water parameters, look at your tank and observe how the fish and other livestock is doing. If your fish and live stock are doing well, you usually want to leave things alone. Just about the worst long term mistake you can make is to start chasing number in your water parameter. This doesn't mean don't test or never adjust them, but it does mean that you should consider any changes very carefully. Often water changes, or comparatively small adjustments are all you need to maintain your water quality.
 
sasquatch

sasquatch

Brunt of all Jokes~
PREMIUM
vsiege said:
I currently have a setup that has been running for a few months. Just recently I picked up a new test kit that included a test for Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity. After testing several times all tests came out darker/higher than the ideal range. The color was actually not on the chart and is way too high.

Whats an expectable range for Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity in respect to seahorses (I have a kuda currently)?

How can I bring down the Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity while maintaining proper ph?

The horse does swim around the tank but often is at the bottom clinging/hiding and at times exhibits panting. While a lot of his behavior seems normal, I would like to see him swimming more and would love to get him a buddy or two when I sort the water quality issues. At this time, I feel the water quality issues could be contributing to his possible respiratory issues.


Current readings:
Nitrate: 0 - 20ppm
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
Total Alkalinity/ Buffering Capacity: > 300ppm
pH: 8 - 8.2 (have the hardest time keeping it here)

Notes:
I use RO/DI water that is produced by myself and mix my own saltwater using Seachem Reef Salt. I have ordered Reef Crystals but am stuck with Seachem for a week at least.
The water is clear and have never had an algae bloom.
Nitrate usually doesnt drop down to 0 but it hovers around 15. I do weekly water changes.
Click to expand...

Basics! the essentials of water control... test kits are a must have, you need to mix some new water up and check levels, its possible your mix is doing this, many salts today are designer salts meant for specialized tanks, tanks with big demands for buffer, honestly I like instant ocean its levels may be a bit low for some things but are very easily added.
9 times out of 10 a perceived problem with ph is really a problem with C02, poor gas exchange from the tank ie. circulation at surface,lack of air flow across tank and the fact many homes are so well sealed that C02 levels are elevated and end up in the tank, do you have a skimmer on this tank?
 
V

vsiege

Active Member
THANK YOU EVERYONE!
I will try to address all that was mentioned.

I have a 37 gallon tank.
Circulation: In terms of off-gassing co2 => Running a Reef Octopus BH-2000 that is rated for 125 gallon setup on my 37 gallon. Much more than my tank needs. I am also running a Marineland Penguin Bio-Wheel 200 rated for 200 gallons per hour. If you think I need more than that, just say, but I think that there is a good turnaround in terms off circulation and surface agitation. The return of the skimmer has a foam diffuser (ugly) to deal with the bubbles. Would a dissolved oxygen kit detect CO2 issues..... or is there something more basic?

Buffering: The initial time I detected an issue (kuda died and wanted to challenge my test kit results - i test all the time), I brought a sample to my LFS and that when we saw a rise in alkalinity. Just prior to that I used API ph up to 8.2...... thinking that would be a good thing.... guess not. Let me state this I've oln y added API pH 8.2 powder once and have never used anything else to modify or adjust this tank.

I will continue to do water changes - 10 - 20% a week. I like the idea of moderate changes. I have been on a Sunday and Wednesday schedule.

Other than the water changes...... is there anything else to be done about the alkalinity?
 
sasquatch

sasquatch

Brunt of all Jokes~
PREMIUM
vsiege said:
THANK YOU EVERYONE!
I will try to address all that was mentioned.

I have a 37 gallon tank.
Circulation: In terms of off-gassing co2 => Running a Reef Octopus BH-2000 that is rated for 125 gallon setup on my 37 gallon. Much more than my tank needs. I am also running a Marineland Penguin Bio-Wheel 200 rated for 200 gallons per hour. If you think I need more than that, just say, but I think that there is a good turnaround in terms off circulation and surface agitation. The return of the skimmer has a foam diffuser (ugly) to deal with the bubbles. Would a dissolved oxygen kit detect CO2 issues..... or is there something more basic?

Buffering: The initial time I detected an issue (kuda died and wanted to challenge my test kit results - i test all the time), I brought a sample to my LFS and that when we saw a rise in alkalinity. Just prior to that I used API ph up to 8.2...... thinking that would be a good thing.... guess not. Let me state this I've oln y added API pH 8.2 powder once and have never used anything else to modify or adjust this tank.

I will continue to do water changes - 10 - 20% a week. I like the idea of moderate changes. I have been on a Sunday and Wednesday schedule.

Other than the water changes...... is there anything else to be done about the alkalinity?
Click to expand...

simple test for dissolved c02 is to check the level, crack a window open for 24 hrs and retest.
You have not supplied a Magnesium level, alk/calc/mag must be in balance or something goes out of the correct zone, as I stated above you also need to test your properly mixed new salt water to see what your adding to the tank
 
Blue Space

Blue Space

Well-Known Member
On a side note... Are you religiously changing the filter on that bio-wheel and cleaning the little compartments out? Those are notorious for becoming nitrate factories if not properly maintained. I'd even go as far as saying that if you have adequate LR, with regular WCs, and that nice skimmer, you could possibly see a drop in nitrates after removing the bio-wheel filter from the system entirely. Wishing you all the best for you and your pony.
 
V

vsiege

Active Member
Blue Space said:
On a side note... Are you religiously changing the filter on that bio-wheel and cleaning the little compartments out? Those are notorious for becoming nitrate factories if not properly maintained. I'd even go as far as saying that if you have adequate LR, with regular WCs, and that nice skimmer, you could possibly see a drop in nitrates after removing the bio-wheel filter from the system entirely. Wishing you all the best for you and your pony.
Click to expand...

It says to change the filter every 2 - 4 weeks. It says not to swap out the bio-wheel itself. I have been trying to keep to the 4 week change. Sorry I forget what the 'LR' stands for. When you say clean out the entire filter (compartments)..... do you mean taking it all apart and using a vinegar water solution on it or simply using a plastic scratch pad here and there.

simple test for dissolved c02 is to check the level, crack a window open for 24 hrs and retest.
Click to expand...
. I have the red sea kit..... and Im able to use it but I can't tell if my findings are good or bad..... honestly not sure how to read the chart.
 
SantaMonica

SantaMonica

Well-Known Member
PREMIUM
Hope this has worked itself out. I wanted to add, that an easy way of keeping adding alk is with baking soda.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top