The pH of the water is a measure of the balance between the Hydrogen (H+) and Hydroxide (OH) ions in the water...The alkalinity is a measurement of the waters buffering ability, or its ability to absorb and neutralize acid...The normal trend for pH in a saltwater system is downward, or more acidic, which stems from the addition of acids into the aquarium. These acids come from several sources, the primary ones being: (1) excess carbon dioxide (CO2) from respiration caused by lack of sufficient gas exchange, (2) nitric acid from biological filtration (nitrification), and (3) organic acids from metabolic wastes.
Tropic Marin Bio-Actif = Low Cal/Mag. Dose???
- Thread starter Warren Peace
- Start date
Boomer
Reef Sanctuary's Mr. Wizard
DKH and PH is an inverse ratio...Which sometimes The higher the one the lower the other...If it is not a problem in your tank then I wouldn't worry about it..Go with what works for you..
That is incorrect
Higher pH waters almost always have a higher Alk. The higher the pH the higher the Alk and vise verse usually, unless the water has high CO2, in which case it makes no difference what the Alk is, the pH will drop. It is higher Alk that helps keep pH up. The normal pH of any closed system is usually downard in pH and Alk. The inverse ratio, as you put it, is usually pH and CO2. i.e, high pH low CO2, low pH high CO2. A high Alk does not mean lower pH. Any time you add a Alk buffer the pH goes up some. Some buffers raise the pH allot.
That is incorrect
Higher pH waters almost always have a higher Alk. The higher the pH the higher the Alk and vise verse usually, unless the water has high CO2, in which case it makes no difference what the Alk is, the pH will drop. It is higher Alk that helps keep pH up. The normal pH of any closed system is usually downard in pH and Alk. The inverse ratio, as you put it, is usually pH and CO2. i.e, high pH low CO2, low pH high CO2. A high Alk does not mean lower pH. Any time you add a Alk buffer the pH goes up some. Some buffers raise the pH allot.
Boomer
Reef Sanctuary's Mr. Wizard
What are the adverse affects of having high alk. ?
If it is to high with high Ca++ and pH your water will get cloudy due to CaCO3 precip or you will loose Ca++ and CO3-- through abiotic precip. Meaning, it pulls down the Ca++ and Alk. Some SPS also seem to suffer from to high an Alk. That high side is anything greater than 4.5 meq / l. or 12.5 dKH. Try to keep no higher than 4 meq / l or 11.2 dKH.
If it is to high with high Ca++ and pH your water will get cloudy due to CaCO3 precip or you will loose Ca++ and CO3-- through abiotic precip. Meaning, it pulls down the Ca++ and Alk. Some SPS also seem to suffer from to high an Alk. That high side is anything greater than 4.5 meq / l. or 12.5 dKH. Try to keep no higher than 4 meq / l or 11.2 dKH.
Warren Peace
Member
Finally levels are where they should be...
Calcium: 430ppm
Magnesium : 1320ppm
Alk: 8.7dkh
PH: 8.2
All the corals look great and seem to be thriving
Calcium: 430ppm
Magnesium : 1320ppm
Alk: 8.7dkh
PH: 8.2
All the corals look great and seem to be thriving
Warren Peace
Member
I am testing daily to see how much is being consumed. I dont have alot of corals that take down calcium/magnesium so for right now I may be able to get by with just weekly dosing in my new water batches...... for now.
The way I did it was to perform a water change and then test a few hrs later (record results). then one week later test again and compare the results. take the difference and divide by seven and this will give you a daily usage. Dont dose anything during this time.
Then do another water change and retest (no doseing here either). This will let you know how much your water change is replentishing the elements.
This I find easier to do than testing every day. I feel that the numbers are easier to figure. in the end you should still come out the same.
I also got the simular mg/ca results with the Bio-Actif and have been adding Ca and Mg to the water when I am preparing the water. I too have not been happy about this as it costs time and money to bring up my water to acceptable levels. Contacted tropic Marin and the disputed results saying that Salifrite test kits weren't that good - really!?!?!
Question: I understand the max levels per day to be for the tank with corals and fish, any issues with adding Mg to the water while mixing and then Ca in one day?
I have been raising the mg around 200 ppm and the Ca around 100 ( after the Mg is at 1300+) and letting the water mix for 24 hrs prior to water change with great results. I have a 30 gallon cube tank and do a 5.5gal water change every two week. The only thing that has done better in the past has been my shrooms. They are smaller these days but dont think its related. Thoughts?
Going back to Reef Pro and adding Reef Actif. Looking at possibly adding a Reactor/bio pellets to see if the tank will do better, just out of curiosity as I am very happy with how my corals are doing.
Question: I understand the max levels per day to be for the tank with corals and fish, any issues with adding Mg to the water while mixing and then Ca in one day?
I have been raising the mg around 200 ppm and the Ca around 100 ( after the Mg is at 1300+) and letting the water mix for 24 hrs prior to water change with great results. I have a 30 gallon cube tank and do a 5.5gal water change every two week. The only thing that has done better in the past has been my shrooms. They are smaller these days but dont think its related. Thoughts?
Going back to Reef Pro and adding Reef Actif. Looking at possibly adding a Reactor/bio pellets to see if the tank will do better, just out of curiosity as I am very happy with how my corals are doing.
