Tips to avoid leaks or flood in FOWLR tank

[xl2000]

Hi, I am new to the hobby and I am planning to setup a FOWLR system at some point but still in the planning phase.

One thing that came out from some of the research I made was that some people get leaks or flood from either
their sumps or fishtanks do to different reasons (Poweroutage, siphon from main tank, not enough room in sump etc...)

I was wondering if there was a way to build the system to avoid having flood or leaks as much as possible.

For instance, does a pre drilled tank with a sump still could flood ? I tried to do research and could not find
anything to provide tips on what to do to totally avoid floods.

At some point I was even looking at something like the Red Sea Max 250 as everything is in the same tank and therefore would remove the flooding potential, but would not be suited for bigger fishes and is more a reef tank than a FOWLR.

Could you guys direct me on how this could be achieved.

Thanks

 

[seafansar]

A lot of the times, with me at least, it's my own fault that my tank floods. Either I spill water while doing a water change or put too much water into my sump and then the power goes out.
The best way to avoid floods IMO is to have a large/tall sump or to test how high the water goes with the power off and mark where it was on your sump before the power went out (Max water line and keep the water under that line). I have a 55 gallon under my 150 gallon, so I don't really have to worry about flooding.
Also I line the bottom of my tank stands with shower curtain to hold in water if there's a small leak. You can also buy a leak sensor (like LeakFrog) and it will make a loud noise when it senses water on the ground.

Welcome to RS, BTW!!!

 

[Smiley1]

you can also do some math and figure out how much extra volume your DT can handle if your overflow plugs. Then make sure the volume of your return pump area does not exceed that amount.

 

[DaveK]

There are so many way a tank can cause a flood that it is impossible to completely prevent them.

A reef ready tank does go a long way toward solving a lot of the problems. Also make sure water can't back flow through the return if the power fails. Top quality equipment will also prevent a lot of problems, includeing floods.

 

[xl2000]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

 

[Rjones]

I have 5 aquariums and have had floods by various means.

1. Poorly constructed stand was not level. Caused the glass to slide (not break) away from the silicon. Made a mess. The fix, level the stand and used a thin piece of rubber door insulation strips to soak up any small pressure areas. Some people use a sheet of Styrofoam between the tank and stand. It works but its uglier than the foam strips.

2. Not using reverse valves on my bubbler. Water back-flowed into the bubbler and drained tank. Fix - keep air pump above water line and used valves.

3. Hose clamp came off on pass through heater - Never assume tight friction fit won't come off with time. Knock on wood, never had a leaky canister yet.
Have owned 8 brands. Even so, I put my canisters in a 5 gallon tupper type bucket to catch any small leaks if they spring.

4. Poorly adjusted skimmer - Too much flow made it drain my sump, it did not flood but drained my tank. I prefer not to use the skimmer overflow line, the back pressure keeps it from overflowing if I don't use the skim flow tube.

5. Leaky bottom drain - its not bad as the salt sort of seals it. I'm thinking the 2 inch drain did not have a rubber seal on instillation. Fix. some silicone around the bottom. I think drill outs for the sump are safe, yes if a pipe broke it would be a mess. Owning a aquarium is a risk no way around it.

Hang on the back filters are safer for flood worries. I think they are stinky and ugly so I take the risks using canisters and sumps underneath

For my 330 gallon I had it built over a floor drain. If it floods the drain will get the bulk of it.

The big disasters I have witnessed were from poorly leveled tanks.
If you have a big tank (200 gallons) the stand is very important. I went with a 900 pound powder coated steel stand. It could hold an elephant.

I local restaurant had a 400 gallon on a heavy duty wood stand. After a year it settled and the tank cracked and drained. Huge mess, tank was down for a year. Then they set it all up again and power failure lost all the coral, live rock etc. Down another 9 months, now I see its set up for the easier to maintain and less expensive A. cichlids.

To keep leaks to a minimum don't drill the tank at all. Use sponge filters and live rock and water changes. Get thicker than needed tank (mines 1.25" thick) overbuilt stand and make sure the floor can handle the weight. Might have to put a jack in the space below, if you can't do that build up the floor with something non flexible. Use Styrofoam between tank and stand, this will get rid of any high pressure spots.

 

[Nuno]

Actually I think not to drill the tank very bad advice! You should drill any tank with atleast 3 holes, one for water coming in and two for water coming out. It is important though to have it done by some specialist and not your average DIY at home cause thats why people say tanks leek and need leak sensor Etc. In my apinion some one who has one of these sensors has not done the job right. All the reasons I have seen here discribed can easily be avoided.

Here some advise:

Drill your tank with 3 holes, to seel it of have machined standard PVC nuts to fit a o-ring then titen one on the inside and one on the outside of the tank. It will never ever leak! This is working safe !

Change all your small hoses, those cheap silicone tipe ones we use for air pumps, venturies etc with air presure hoses and quick release air fitings (osmosis type also) that only come of when you want it too!

Use 100% silicone hose to conect you return and skimmer pumps, it will reduce noise by reducing vibrations and it will last for ever (Almost

I wont even coment on bad leveling, bad quality stands etc.