Tips for a Succesful Barebottomed SPS tank
- Thread starter mps9506
- Start date
Don't try and keep up.
Your neighbor sounds like he cares about his tank by sacrificing so much money on it.
Sometimes it is needed to spend money to accomplish results we want.
What size tank is it to have all those toys?
Concentrate on your tank.
And find what is right for yours.
Your neighbor sounds like he cares about his tank by sacrificing so much money on it.
Sometimes it is needed to spend money to accomplish results we want.
What size tank is it to have all those toys?
Concentrate on your tank.
And find what is right for yours.
mps9506
Well-Known Member
I'm not really trying to keep up. His tank has been established for a long time, he is just recently upgraded to a 180 and is upgrading his toys along with it.
It all in fun. My tank doesn't get lots of money spent on it, I have learned over the years what parts are important to spend money on, and I make good use of the used equipment forums.
I have wanted to add either uv or ozone for a long time now. Just now learning about what UV can do for my tank though. I think it is a better fit for my tank than ozone.
But only after I get my Ca reactor.
It all in fun. My tank doesn't get lots of money spent on it, I have learned over the years what parts are important to spend money on, and I make good use of the used equipment forums.
I have wanted to add either uv or ozone for a long time now. Just now learning about what UV can do for my tank though. I think it is a better fit for my tank than ozone.
But only after I get my Ca reactor.
UV's are a much better than fit than Ozone for a reef tank.
I rate them above Ozone and well above Carbon.
Carbon is last for 3 main reasons:
1. The constant need to buy it. Plain and simple.
2. To be effective it needs to be changed regularly. New media rinsed etc.
It is messy and a pain.
3. When the Carbon is 'full' nutrients are no longer being taken up.
To make matters worse, the Carbon becomes a trapping area and begins to actually 'cause' higherl levels of DOC's. Being cut by your own sword is not a good thing.
UV's perform a multitude of different tasks. All of which are beneficial.
Certainly you can use too much. A 240 watt UV on your tank would be detrimental.
I rate them above Ozone and well above Carbon.
Carbon is last for 3 main reasons:
1. The constant need to buy it. Plain and simple.
2. To be effective it needs to be changed regularly. New media rinsed etc.
It is messy and a pain.
3. When the Carbon is 'full' nutrients are no longer being taken up.
To make matters worse, the Carbon becomes a trapping area and begins to actually 'cause' higherl levels of DOC's. Being cut by your own sword is not a good thing.
UV's perform a multitude of different tasks. All of which are beneficial.
Certainly you can use too much. A 240 watt UV on your tank would be detrimental.
Thanks for the info. I'm still new to the UV thing, haven't really done a ton of research on it.You are welcome.
I, for one, used to use every device sold as for "Reef Tanks".
Most were utterly useless.
I lost much money doing so but learned many valuable lessons.
I learned which types of equipment work, additives etc.
UV's are very potent and help a tank very much.
They are not needed by any means.
But they do make things easier for you and make other pieces of equipment such as skimmers much more efective.
I, for one, used to use every device sold as for "Reef Tanks".
Most were utterly useless.
I lost much money doing so but learned many valuable lessons.
I learned which types of equipment work, additives etc.
UV's are very potent and help a tank very much.
They are not needed by any means.
But they do make things easier for you and make other pieces of equipment such as skimmers much more efective.
As for another tip, I have found this VERY VERY instrumental for me.
For others maybe not so much.
I made a simple list of maintenance tasks.
Monday - Sunday, what was to be done on each day.
Monthly, quarterly and yearly.
Everything on that list is for the "normal" running of my system.
From changing filter socks, cleaning skimmers, testing, cleaning pumps...everything.
With a BB tank the key is to remove nutrients before they break down.
If you put off the task until tomorrow or the next day or the day after that, Phosphates are being released and you are defeating the purpose of a BB tank...low nutrients and pretty colored SPS. Go back to DSB and have the cushion.
For me I look at the list and do what is on it.
There are only 3 days a week there is any task.
And on one of those days the only task is to change out the filter socks.
For others maybe not so much.
I made a simple list of maintenance tasks.
Monday - Sunday, what was to be done on each day.
Monthly, quarterly and yearly.
Everything on that list is for the "normal" running of my system.
From changing filter socks, cleaning skimmers, testing, cleaning pumps...everything.
With a BB tank the key is to remove nutrients before they break down.
If you put off the task until tomorrow or the next day or the day after that, Phosphates are being released and you are defeating the purpose of a BB tank...low nutrients and pretty colored SPS. Go back to DSB and have the cushion.
For me I look at the list and do what is on it.
There are only 3 days a week there is any task.
And on one of those days the only task is to change out the filter socks.
mps9506
Well-Known Member
Good tip. I change my filter socks out every monday weds. and sat.
5 gallon water change every weds. and sat.
I'm not so good ono my testing, but my levels have been pretty stable so I haven't been too on top off the testing since then.
I should do that though, maybe a dry earse board with a schedule on it... too simple...
Mike
Once a tank is mature excessive testing is not needed.
A reefer should 'know' his/her tank and acept visual cues that something is amiss.
Tests for Alk, Nitrate and PO4 should be done at least every 3 weeks imo.
I test Alk weekly as I have an SPS tank.
I like to KNOW it is ok.
A reefer should 'know' his/her tank and acept visual cues that something is amiss.
Tests for Alk, Nitrate and PO4 should be done at least every 3 weeks imo.
I test Alk weekly as I have an SPS tank.
I like to KNOW it is ok.
Maxx
Well-Known Member
I can understand the Alk, kinda understand the nitrate, (being thorough and all...I'm just abit lazier than you), but why the test for phosphates. Its my understanding that Organic phosphates are not able to be tested, and inorganic phosphates are taken up very rapidly by surrounding organisms (bacteria and algae for example) so what are you using to test for phosphates and where in your tank are you taking samples from?
Nick