The White Slime Menace.

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scubaguy

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Not too long ago I had an issue with a white stringy cob web like mucus material taking over my entire nano & unfortunately it has returned again although I'm taking measures to contain it this time. I was stumped. Did all kinds of reading online. Nothing or no one seems to have an answer for the as to the reason why. It can't be an invertebrate because the mucus dons't mach with there's & not only that but the rate at which they grow or origin would clearly give away their location. I've seen many people on the subject post on all the forums yet no one has a clue. Some have even had losses because of it. Here's an example "I don't know what this is, ive never seen it before and don't really know what would have caused it. The picture is of a holding tank I have plumbed into my main system, I had a boxer shrimp that died within a couple days after this stuff showed up. Its all over in the holding tank, my sump, and I also noticed my filter sock was overflowing within like 6 hours of putting a new one on, so I put my hand in it and it was covered in this slime. Its starting to show up in my main display. My clams have also been semi-closed the last few days. My anemones seem fine, as well as my fish and corals. All params are in check for the most part, Ive been slowly raising my alk and started two part dosing, however, the slime had appeared prior to the dosing. Params are:

Alk 7.0dkh
CA 450
Mag 1400
Ph ~8
NO3 5ppm

Im getting ready to do a 25g water change. Do you think I should get some carbon and run that. The only thing I can really think of it maybe my filter socks weren't rinsed good enough. But I would think this would cause more problems/death than what I am seeing"IMG_20130606_130057_594.jpg "Well it is still getting worse even after doing a 25g water change and sucking it out best I could. Also my 6" derasa is now dead, that I've had for over 6 months... I don't get it. Going to do another water change when I get home." Their are so many of these cases. I was able to find an article about the topic specifically. http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/content/mystery-white-reef-slime
http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/content/mystery-white-reef-slime-part-ii "By Lance Ichinotsubo
This third segment brings to a conclusion almost three months of work, research, treatment and finding cure for what I think of as the “mysterious white reef slime effect.” Lance-Ichinotsubo.jpg At this writing, I am very happy to say that— at least in one instance—we have been successful in eradicating the slime completely, or seemingly so. Our client’s reef aquarium in Pompano Beach has now been free of the slime for the last two weeks.
Happily, we can report that many of the corals, which had suffered tremendously from the slime almost to near death, are actually now stable and some have actually regenerated new tissue and color. In addition, the recruitment of coralline algae (which had all but disappeared) has accelerated, and has started to return to the rock and other surfaces rapidly.
The Cure & How to Do It
The root of the problem is a common bacteria, Alcaligenes xylosoxidans, found wherever humans congregate and known for its copious slime production. It grows out of control when volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and phalates are present in high concentrations.
The plug‐in deodorizers contain a fair amount of both compound groups, but apparently not enough to cause the bloom of the slime‐producing bacteria. Our data indicates that the catastrophic initiation event (commerical cleaning services or a fire) was then required to put the nutrient level over the threshold concentration point, which then allowed the slime‐producing heterotrophic bacteria to bloom.
We called Dr. Tim Hovanec, right, one the world's leading experts on aquarium bacteria, for advice. Dr-Tim-Hovanec.jpg On his advice, we began the process by removing all of the obvious sources of phthalates in both locations. Air "freshening" and deodorizing systems and sprays are among the suspected culprits in this case. As we removed the sources of phthalates and worked to minimize VOCs in both locations where white slime had broken out, the slime production appeared to diminish slowly.
The controlling factors, however, are the heterotrophic bacteria that we are now introducing, as suggested by Dr. Hovanec. These beneficial bacterial species will actually break down the slime and out‐compete the slime‐producing bacteria for food. In this fashion, we are able to control the slime‐producing heterotrophs and keep them in check.
Dr. Hovanec recommended the use of Re‐Fresh initially at a dose of 5‐ml per 10‐gallons every other day for 7‐10 days. He went on to say that adding 35% hydrogen peroxide at a concentration of 2‐3 mls per 10‐gallons in conjunction with the Re‐Fresh would be very beneficial; however, our experiences indicate that some corals (mostly soft, but some stony) and certain species of fish (large angels in particular) can react adversely to the concentrated H2O2, so be careful with the 35% stuff. sw_wasteaway.jpg Once the slime has broken down, he said, we should change the additive to Waste‐Away. Also on an every other day basis, the Waste‐Away would be used at a 5‐ml per 10‐gallon dose for two treatments, then raised to 10‐
ml per 5‐gallons after that. Once the slime has been eliminated, the Waste‐Away can be used as a routine maintenance product.
After only three doses of Re-Fresh, the slime was retreating.
By the end of the first ten days adding the Re-Fresh, the slime was almost completely broken down, and we switched to adding the Waste-Away. Also on an every other day basis, the Waste-Away was used at a 5-ml per 10-gallon dose for two treatments, then raised to 10-ml per 5-gallons after that. It is now day 25, and the slime has now been completely eradicated.
We will now begin the protocol of using Waste-Away as a routine maintenance product, adding 10-ml per 5-gallons once weekly. (Other companies offer similar bacterial products. Be sure to choose a brand with excellent credentials, as not all have the bacteria you are paying for.)
Over time, it will continue to break down the organic detritus and other celluloid waste, which builds up in the gravel and on the live rock in our aquariums. Ultimately, this in turn shall make our aquarium inhabitants happier and healthier, while also making our jobs just a little bit easier. So there you are. We are very relieved here in our lives to have had such good results with quite an uncommon situation. We also hope that by bringing this to the forefront of the information-seeking public, we may have helped other service companies and hobbyists.

One last comment: Do stay on your toes.
We encounter many diverse and unusual conditions in this hobby and this latest experience is proof that the causative factors could come from any nearly unimaginable sources. So don’t hesitate to reach out and share your concerns and successes. You just might be the catalyst to solve yet another challenge in the reef aquarium hobby.
Thanks for reading, and until next time, have fun with your aquarium." I think this hits it on the nail. It could be plug-in air fresheners or scented products under the A/C air intake. Please give your opinion about this topic.
 
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DaveK

Well-Known Member
To me, what you are seeing looks like the stuff you get when you cure right out of the ocean live rock. I also not that you had several losses in your tank, which could be a major food source for the bacteria. The thing is you have sort of a "chicken / egg" problem, it's tough to determine cause and effect. Did something die, and cause the bacteria blooms or did the bacteria blooms cause something to die.

As for the chemical treatments recommended, I would use them only as an absolute last resort. As a general rule, although there are exceptions, never ever medicate a reef system.

For now I would also lay off the other additives to raise alk or two part additives. Far better to let your water parms get a little out that create another problem.

If the livestock is ok, let the bacteria bloom run it's course, removing as much as you can manually, cleaning your mechanical filter media often, and filtering with carbon.

I'd also test your new water for water changes and your tank water for nitrates and phosphates. This may give you a clue as to the food source for the bacteria..
 

scubaguy

Member
To me, what you are seeing looks like the stuff you get when you cure right out of the ocean live rock. I also not that you had several losses in your tank, which could be a major food source for the bacteria. The thing is you have sort of a "chicken / egg" problem, it's tough to determine cause and effect. Did something die, and cause the bacteria blooms or did the bacteria blooms cause something to die.

As for the chemical treatments recommended, I would use them only as an absolute last resort. As a general rule, although there are exceptions, never ever medicate a reef system.

For now I would also lay off the other additives to raise alk or two part additives. Far better to let your water parms get a little out that create another problem.

If the livestock is ok, let the bacteria bloom run it's course, removing as much as you can manually, cleaning your mechanical filter media often, and filtering with carbon.

I'd also test your new water for water changes and your tank water for nitrates and phosphates. This may give you a clue as to the food source for the bacteria..

What you read was someone else's situation from another forum that I used as an example. It's not my tank. This is more a thread of discussion then question really. I know it's long but, towards the bottom it explains how the slime can be cured & I'm afraid cleaning filters or checking params aren't one of those solutions. It's actually not medication, it's bacteria that's 100% reef safe. Pretty weird stuff.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
That's my whole point. Yes, I did realize that it's not your tank. I believe that they are "curing" something that doesn't need to be cured.

Note that the first thing they want to use is Re-fresh, which is a bacteria additive. Now any cycled system is going to have plenty of that. A one time dose, to add different types, maybe. Over all, In my opinion this is something I would prefer not to use.

The second thing they recommended was "...adding 35% hydrogen peroxide at a concentration of 2‐3 mls per 10‐gallons ...". This is defiantly something I would recommend against. Yea, I'd call this a medication or chemical treatment.

The third item is Waste‐Away. Yet another bacteria additive. See comments on on Re-fresh.

In my opinion, unless you have a problem with your live stock, you don't want to be doing anything more that good aquarium management. The "slime" will go away on it's own, and it's not really a problem. If there is no problem, there is no need to "cure" anything.

"... I'm afraid cleaning filters or checking params aren't one of those solutions..." I would consider this statement to be incorrect. I recommend aquarium maintenance steps that will generally resolve the slime problem with out resorting to additives or chemicals.
 

jerry26

Member
the only place i see anything like that is in my bio pellet reactor. i didnt even realize it until a bacterial bloom was brought up. correct me if im wrong, but isnt this where a good skimmer really pays off?
 

scubaguy

Member
That's my whole point. Yes, I did realize that it's not your tank. I believe that they are "curing" something that doesn't need to be cured.

Note that the first thing they want to use is Re-fresh, which is a bacteria additive. Now any cycled system is going to have plenty of that. A one time dose, to add different types, maybe. Over all, In my opinion this is something I would prefer not to use.

The second thing they recommended was "...adding 35% hydrogen peroxide at a concentration of 2‐3 mls per 10‐gallons ...". This is defiantly something I would recommend against. Yea, I'd call this a medication or chemical treatment.

The third item is Waste‐Away. Yet another bacteria additive. See comments on on Re-fresh.

In my opinion, unless you have a problem with your live stock, you don't want to be doing anything more that good aquarium management. The "slime" will go away on it's own, and it's not really a problem. If there is no problem, there is no need to "cure" anything.

"... I'm afraid cleaning filters or checking params aren't one of those solutions..." I would consider this statement to be incorrect. I recommend aquarium maintenance steps that will generally resolve the slime problem with out resorting to additives or chemicals.
Oh, ok... I just thought that because you were saying "you" so much.

Yeah, you're right. A cycled system would however, that isn't the issue. The issue is that you have another type in unwanted quantities that metabolizes phthalates & VOCs -(something also undesired & unexpected) into an oxygen robbing slime that will kill your live stock due to anoxia & as they state... "The controlling factors, however, are the heterotrophic bacteria that we are now introducing, as suggested by Dr. Hovanec. These beneficial bacterial species will actually break down the slime and out‐compete the slime‐producing bacteria for food. In this fashion, we are able to control the slime‐producing heterotrophs and keep them in check."

They did mention that but, they also mentioned against it if you read the rest... "however, our experiences indicate that some corals (mostly soft, but some stony) and certain species of fish (large angels in particular) can react adversely to the concentrated H2O2, so be careful with the 35% stuff."

Purpose of that product -"it will continue to break down the organic detritus and other celluloid waste, which builds up in the gravel and on the live rock in our aquariums. Ultimately, this in turn shall make our aquarium inhabitants happier and healthier, while also making our jobs just a little bit easier."

Dude, this slime KILLS THINGS. I have no reason to lie. Trust me. The example I used from another forum was one. The guy that wrote this article isn't a newbie or some random hobbyist either. They have many ears of aquarium maintenance in south florida & I think they know what they're saying. It is a problem & one that'll cost you your entire investment in your aquarium. Oh, like I or the rest of the people who have had this problem haven't done that before. Good husbandry does not solve this problem. It is a bacterial problem of the heterotrophic type which can't be done anything about on it's own by just "letting it phase out" because it just keeps on growing as long as it has a source of phthalates or VOCs which can be impossible to locate.
 

scubaguy

Member
the only place i see anything like that is in my bio pellet reactor. i didnt even realize it until a bacterial bloom was brought up. correct me if im wrong, but isnt this where a good skimmer really pays off?
That's what I was thinking too just because a skimmer would remove the VOC since it's organic & contains proteins. The problems is that a non-commercial protein skimmer can't really remove 100% of the stuff so I can imagine once you have accumulated enough VOCs past the nutrient max threshold the bacteria would start to metabolize the slime.
 

scubaguy

Member
Well, it's been seven day since I started using Dr. Tim's Refresh. At this moment I am exstatic to say that slime is almost completely gone. In three more days I'll start using Dr. Tim's Wast-Away. This really did the trick & I'm happy to know that thier is at least in some part of the internet an answer to this horibly dangerous problem & it's right here on this site :cool:
 

scubaguy

Member
Well, it's been seven day since I started using Dr. Tim's Refresh. At this moment I am exstatic to say that slime is almost completely gone. In three more days I'll start using Dr. Tim's Wast-Away. This really did the trick & I'm happy to know that thier is at least in some part of the internet an answer to this horibly dangerous problem & it's right here on this site :cool:
Turns out the source of the VOCs was from a leack in my central A/C unit that was leacking refrigereant. My water by the way, is looking crystal clear & the slime has reduced to detritus that Wate-Away will take care of. Oh happy day!" lol. I'll start a tank thread pretty soon.
 

Mike Johnson

Well-Known Member
I get a couple Dr. Tim's e-mails per day. I've read the articles. Maybe DaveK doesn't have a few hours right now to eloquently write a three page rebuttal, neither do I.

I can tell you that I am not convinced and will not be adding anything to my tanks. There are many different bacterias in a tank and we need them all. One thing that they have in common is that they all require a carbon source to grow. Starting from the basics will usually solve all of your problems.

To sum it up, I have to agree with Dave. If you want me to throw a few bacteria names out to make this post look more scientific I can, without a book.

I will also note that all of the products are hyped up to lessen your cycle time - nature is better, or to clean up your tank - good maintenance is better. A little patience goes a long way with a salt water tank.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
...
Dude, this slime KILLS THINGS. I have no reason to lie. Trust me. The example I used from another forum was one. The guy that wrote this article isn't a newbie or some random hobbyist either. They have many ears of aquarium maintenance in south florida & I think they know what they're saying. It is a problem & one that'll cost you your entire investment in your aquarium. Oh, like I or the rest of the people who have had this problem haven't done that before. Good husbandry does not solve this problem. It is a bacterial problem of the heterotrophic type which can't be done anything about on it's own by just "letting it phase out" because it just keeps on growing as long as it has a source of phthalates or VOCs which can be impossible to locate.

I'm sorry, I just can't buy into this. I don't think your trying to lie, just because you say "trust me" doesn't mean that I will necessarily believe you or them. From my experience, I've found that most people in the aquarium maintenance business, are almost as clueless as most of the people running LFSs. In other words, they know enough to get by. Now I don't know these people personally, but I can see that they are trying to sell a product.

Over the years, I have seen product after product come out that was going to add or otherwise correct the bacteria in my tank. I've even tried quite a few of them. I've actually tried UV, ozone, H2O2 related products. They do work, but only really work well for very specific problems. I have also tried multiple bacteria additives, and have yet to find one that I really feel did anything extraordinary. The bottom line here is that I stand by my original statements.

That's what I was thinking too just because a skimmer would remove the VOC since it's organic & contains proteins. The problems is that a non-commercial protein skimmer can't really remove 100% of the stuff so I can imagine once you have accumulated enough VOCs past the nutrient max threshold the bacteria would start to metabolize the slime.

I'll just say I'm a sceptic here as well. My thoughts are that if you actually have this problem, you have too small a skimmer or are not using it correctly. Possibly carbon or other chemical media might be desirable too.

Well, it's been seven day since I started using Dr. Tim's Refresh. At this moment I am exstatic to say that slime is almost completely gone. In three more days I'll start using Dr. Tim's Wast-Away. This really did the trick & I'm happy to know that thier is at least in some part of the internet an answer to this horibly dangerous problem & it's right here on this site :cool:

I'm glad it work for you. What I do not think can be demonstrated is was this because of the products you used or in spite of them? In other words, would the "problem" have gone away on it's own, especially since you think you found the source of the problem due to leaking refrigerant?

Good luck with your system in the future.
 

scubaguy

Member
I get a couple Dr. Tim's e-mails per day. I've read the articles. Maybe DaveK doesn't have a few hours right now to eloquently write a three page rebuttal, neither do I.

I can tell you that I am not convinced and will not be adding anything to my tanks. There are many different bacterias in a tank and we need them all. One thing that they have in common is that they all require a carbon source to grow. Starting from the basics will usually solve all of your problems.

To sum it up, I have to agree with Dave. If you want me to throw a few bacteria names out to make this post look more scientific I can, without a book.

I will also note that all of the products are hyped up to lessen your cycle time - nature is better, or to clean up your tank - good maintenance is better. A little patience goes a long way with a salt water tank.

Not sure if time has anything to do with it. These are scientific biological facts. All I did was address a responds refutting those. I mean, once your sitting down a few minuts is all you need to write down a few ideas I guess, :dunno:

Well to each thier own. I'm not trying to convince anyone. You can do wahtever you want. Frankly, I could care less. The reason I wrote this thread was bring this problem that people are having to light & to provide some kind of a concreet answer & solution. Yup, your right about how bacteria live but, I'm affraid I dissagree about "Starting from the basics will usually solve all of your problems". As I stated before, unfortuanately good husbandry dosn't solve this problem.

You can't prove somting by just naming bacteria. You must also state what they do & how they're related to the diognosis. The scientific study & evidence is thier streight from microbiologists & vet techs. All you have to do is read it. Wether you agree with them well, hey again... to each thier own. I don't want you to do anything :coffee2:

You think your aquarium is natural? :rollingey Haha to begin with an aquarium isn't a naturual ecosystem & by natural I mean the way it would naturally be in the ocean. In an aquarium you have bacteria, algea, & micro algea all competting for food in a little ammount of space were anyone of them can easily turn into a nuisance or serious problem because at times depending on the setup may have an unatural ammount of nutrients. Not visually to you but, for the inhabitants aswell. As long as thier isn't anything that can't be delt passively through regular maintnace I agree for the most part. Just FYI, those bacterial additives are nature. They are the same bacteria that bread in your tank by themselves.
 

scubaguy

Member
I'm sorry, I just can't buy into this. I don't think your trying to lie, just because you say "trust me" doesn't mean that I will necessarily believe you or them. From my experience, I've found that most people in the aquarium maintenance business, are almost as clueless as most of the people running LFSs. In other words, they know enough to get by. Now I don't know these people personally, but I can see that they are trying to sell a product.

Over the years, I have seen product after product come out that was going to add or otherwise correct the bacteria in my tank. I've even tried quite a few of them. I've actually tried UV, ozone, H2O2 related products. They do work, but only really work well for very specific problems. I have also tried multiple bacteria additives, and have yet to find one that I really feel did anything extraordinary. The bottom line here is that I stand by my original statements.



I'll just say I'm a sceptic here as well. My thoughts are that if you actually have this problem, you have too small a skimmer or are not using it correctly. Possibly carbon or other chemical media might be desirable too.



I'm glad it work for you. What I do not think can be demonstrated is was this because of the products you used or in spite of them? In other words, would the "problem" have gone away on it's own, especially since you think you found the source of the problem due to leaking refrigerant?

Good luck with your system in the future.
DaveK, like I told Mike... I could care less what you do. The purpose of this thread wasn't to make an infomercial for a product or to debate them & it certainly isn't about debating undeniable scientific facts about bacteria. This thread was created to help anyone on the web that is having or has had this problem with no results from your proposed solution. I agree, thier are many LFSs & maintnace companies that either speack 1/2 truths or just uneducated knowlege. I've seen a few :rollingey: but, these guys arn't just talking out of thier rear ends. The three articals have all stated quotes, sources, & citation or refrences from biologists, vet techs, & published scientific articles. That is why they arn't just trying to sell a product. I won't explain this article or how bacteria's biological processes again to you because I've already have. Okay... do what ever you want :coffee2:

I don't use a protein skimmer. The people that have had this problem have protein skimmers. Really it would depend on the size of the protein skimmer & what viority of VOC it is because not all contain amino acids filterable by protein skimmers. If you have somthing as unimaginable as a source of VOCs chances are the ammount will be so large that a protein skimmer just couldn't possibly skim all out. Again, remembering that not all contain amino acids. Carbon would help. That is true but, isn't a viable solution.

If you would have read the article you would have read that in some cases the source of the VOCs were actually found & once they took care of it, the slime resided because the bacteria didn't have that source of nutrients anymore. In my situation, I had no idea were it was comming from and or removing it was costs preventive. Just as was the case with one of thier clients that had an A/C unit putting out essence of burnt plastic wires from a previous fire in the building which all the clients in that building had. Recently my roommate did an inspection to our central A/C unit & it turns out it was a leack. That was a revelation :idea: as to the slime because I couldn't imagen any other source VOCs. We ended changing the unit. $1,800 :stars:

Thanks for the kind wishes, likewise!
 

jerry26

Member
the only place a refrigerant leak would have caused a problem would have been the indoor coil. if you havent replaced it yet you might just want to replace just that part for less than 500$.
 

scubaguy

Member
the only place a refrigerant leak would have caused a problem would have been the indoor coil. if you havent replaced it yet you might just want to replace just that part for less than 500$.

According to the technician it had other damages. The thing was hardly cooling just racking up a hefty electric bill. It was a really old unit from like the 80's though lol. We got an effecient one now though that blows like the windy city :whstlr: Finaly some cool air around here haha.
 

Mike Johnson

Well-Known Member
Usually I'll let a dead horse lie, but I can't pass on the opportunity to quote Scubaguy. "They are the same bacterial that [breed] in your tank by themselves." You rebutted everything you have tried to convince me of.

And, actually, I wasn't sure if you were a spokesperson. They sure do have a media blitz going on. I am a biologist; I guess I should come up with a miracle cure, also.

Except one thing these "bacteria" are in a bottle. In nature you have certain amounts of bacteria to correspond with the other certain amounts of bacteria. When Dave wrote that time might have taken care of it he was saying that x amount of bacteria grow to consume x amount of bacteria - a natural process. This is why everyone stresses to add to your bioload gradually over several months. It's when people rush these natural processes that problems arise.

Here's a short little article I wrote about a month ago. It's stated in simple terms, but if you have any specific questions I'll be more than glad to answer them.

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...on/86591-deep-sand-bed-not-3.html#post1194319
 
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