t5 or not
- Thread starter TangMang232
- Start date
Dre
Member
This is very true. I placed my order on Fri and by Tue I already have my T-5. Check there link and compare there prices. You won't be disappointed
mempho reefer
Member
I have the Nova Extreme 24" set up. My tank is a mixed reef with mainly soft and LPS. I do have two SPS and they are triving. The one problem with the stock Nova Extreme are the bulbs. I got with the guys at Reef Geeks and they hooked me up with a four bulb combo that kicked my corals into growth overdrive. It also made the colors pop and gave the tank an more natural reef look. The stock Nova bulbs are OK but the PAR levels don't compare to ATI or UVL.
NATIVEVAMAN
Member
Mempho, you hit the nail squarely on the head that time.You just cant beat t-5 for bulb choices and combo's.A reefer can customize the look of his tank and maximize his growth rate.With bulbs from 3000k(not recomended) to 17000k.As it is with coral,retailers like to play the name games.Actinic,actinic+,super actinic+,and full spectrum.I have seen bulbs of 10000k all the way to 14000k described as "full spectrum".At 14000k the bulbs are blue enough to be what is called "stand alone",they need no actinic supplimentation.They are almost totaly blue and yet they get called full spectrum.5745k,thats the color temp of sunlight on the equator at noon and that is full spectrum.I have to say that 14000k and 17000k bulbs really make a tank look great.However the closer you get to total blue the worse the coral growth becomes.Many studies concerning coral growth say that 6500K is the best for coral growth,but it alone will make just about the ugliest tank you ever saw.I would recomend using a 50/50 mix of 12000k and actinic.
TangMang232
Member
okay Native. My trait is construction, i will not have much of a problem building a canopy. My father is an electrician so i can have him run wiring for the tank alone. My major concern is going to be the long term effect on my electric bill. T-5 HO are very efficient. Are the VHO bulbs going to make my bill as what a MH would do?? Also You said get 8 bulbs. Im not worried about customizing my setup at this point but what would you say about 4 10,000K bulbs, 2 14,000K and 2 actinic 420NM. Also what would you recommend for the height above the water line, and should i worry about using tops or could i go open top. My concern would be water splashing from a fish and causing damage to the light or the ballast.
I plan on running individual reflectors either way i go. I believe the build list is going to be wood, 8 36" bulbs and 2 660 icecaps, reflectors (8) water seal endcaps!! anything else i should add to this list.
Thank you very much guys.
I plan on running individual reflectors either way i go. I believe the build list is going to be wood, 8 36" bulbs and 2 660 icecaps, reflectors (8) water seal endcaps!! anything else i should add to this list.
Thank you very much guys.
NATIVEVAMAN
Member
Compared to the metal halides you would use on that tank you will save a pile of money.I am sure t-5 vho will cost a bit more than than t-5 ho but I predict bankruptcy is not in your future lol.The build list looks complete.I would recomend a good staple gun.As far as the electrical work is concerned the drawings are right on thre ballasts.When doing the wiring wire two bulbs on each half to the same ballast.Like all four outside bulbs to one ballast,then all four inside bulbs to one ballast.Then they can be on seperate switch's for use in the dawn/dusk effect.Your bulb choices seem ok.If you decide you dont like the look you might want to take out the 14k's and replace them with actinics.And if you dont like that take out 2 10k's and put the 14k's back.You get the idea,whoever thought a light fixture could be a play ground lol.
NATIVEVAMAN I understand directlng more light into the tank but double the wattage ? I don't undestand how this is possible ! I Know that some EB's such as rhe Icecap 660 overdrives the bulb therefore increasing the wattage but I don't see how just using a reflector would do this :updown:
NATIVEVAMAN
Member
Cheeks its not the watts but the amp draw that runs the bill up.It just takes more amps to run mh.T-5 bulb replacement should be between 18 and 24 months.His 8 bulbs will cost about 190$'s for the 18 months and those will be top quality bulbs.If you get average mh bulbs and replace 3 every 6 months at 70$'s each thats 630$'s.He wont need a chiller or a lot of fans which run up an electric bill.Depending on where he buys his kits he will spend about 700$'s A and have the finest there is available.I dont think a high quality 3 bulb mh/actinic fixture of high quality can be had for much less than 900$'s.If you do DIY its a bit over 800$'s for everything you need.Whats not to love?
NATIVEVAMAN
Member
Cheeks,the t-5 manufacturers are saying 300 % increase in light,I am actually holding them to a lower standard lol.
NATIVEVAMAN
Member
Actually cheeks with the use of UVL bulbs they are not overdriven,they are made with thicker glass and longer igniters and normally produce 60 watts for a 36 inch bulb.
NATIVEVAMAN
Member
I would be a horrible salesman,but its easy to compare apples to orange's lol.
TangMang232
Member
so im on the site looking at the ballasts. I found the 660's and the end caps, but cant seem to find VHO bulbs, or reflectors in that lenght and wattage. Im sure i can purchase bulbs about anywhere, what brand would u recommend.
Also with the wiring, i might be missing something your saying but wouldnt you want, all your daylight bulbs on one ballast and then the actinc on the other??
Also with the wiring, i might be missing something your saying but wouldnt you want, all your daylight bulbs on one ballast and then the actinc on the other??
NATIVEVAMAN
Member
DIY reef and a couple of other suppliers carry the entire Ica Cap kits all together in a package.The only bulbs that are made for vho are UVL.If you click on bulb choices on DIY reef it will take them directly to them.If you stick with your plan of 2 actinic bulbs they should be the front 2 bulbs and on the same ballast.So the front and rear pair would be your dawn to dusk bulbs,on for about 10 hours.Then the middle 4 would be on for about 8 hours.If you have four actinics then its half on one ballast and half on the other.Remember these are just suggestions.The tank is your piece of art work,do it how you like it.
Ah thanks for the explanation ! My Ballast is pulling 2.1 Amps is that alot ?
In Europe T5's is very common and a friend at our partner site has an SPS dominated tank and he says he needs to replace his bulbs every 6 months for his corals to maintain their color.
What ??? I've never gone under 1 year before I replace my MH bulb and there's been times I've gone as long as 14 moths before replacing it. If you use the Iwasaki bulbs you can go up to 24 months before replacing them.
I would go fot the DIY VHO T5s or the aquatinics, you were told the overdriven would get you 60watts, wrong, 80 watts out of 54 watt bulbs which will shorten bulb life, If you use the new 80 watt vho bulbs no bulb life will be lost and you will still get the 12-18 month bulb life. I would go with Icecap 660 ballasts and get ahold of the guys at reefgeek.com and let them customize your bulb selection for you. Each Icecap will power 4 bulbs I would go with either 8 or 12 bulbs. We havent even gotten into the PAR discussion good job guys. T5s give out the same PAR as MH at significantly lower wattage. If you make it even watts the T5 put out way more PAR(Photosynthetic Active Radiation the stuff that makes corals grow)
TangMang232
Member
with the 660 ballasts do i need to get the wiring harness?? Ill check out the UVL bulb, although now im confused as to what im looking for as far as bulbs lol. Sorry guys, these lights make me run cicles but i think ill get it lol.