Stocking 55 gallon
- Thread starter JMoney
- Start date
Cloudburst2000
Member
Well, first make sure to get equipment capable of supporting corals. Don't skimp or else you will be upgrading later and spending more money than you would have by starting off with good equipment. For corals, you will need a good light. This mean good T5s, metal halides, and a select few LED systems. Be warned that bulbs should be changed out about every 9 months (except for LEDs). Bulbs can run a pretty penny. Good LED lights like Aquailluminations Sols that are capable of supporting corals are more expensive initially but use much less energy and don't require bulbs to be changed frequently so they are cost effective in the long run. Look at tanks utilizing the different types of lights to see what you like best. Corals will color differently under different lights. Some people prefer metal halides, some T5s, and some LEDs. Do your research before buying any lights. You can also find good used lighting systems on this site to buy. I think you have to hit 50 posts before you can get access to the buy/sell forums though.
Also, get your tank drilled and put a sump under it to handle filtration. Get a good skimmer. Maybe even set up an algae scrubber down in the sump for additional filtration. Do all this stuff before setting your tank up. Many people go the HOB filter way and later kick themselves for not having drilled the tank for a sump later. So do it now before you set the tank up.
Do alot of research from curing rocks for the display to how to cycle the tank. Types of equipment to use. What fish work with corals (not all fish are reef safe), what fish will work with each other, etc. Read read read. And for a starter system, try to buy used equipment when possible. It's cheaper and if you decide that the hobby isn't for you then you are out a lot less money. See if anyone around you has SW experience to help you out with your setup. And keep us informed.
Also, get your tank drilled and put a sump under it to handle filtration. Get a good skimmer. Maybe even set up an algae scrubber down in the sump for additional filtration. Do all this stuff before setting your tank up. Many people go the HOB filter way and later kick themselves for not having drilled the tank for a sump later. So do it now before you set the tank up.
Do alot of research from curing rocks for the display to how to cycle the tank. Types of equipment to use. What fish work with corals (not all fish are reef safe), what fish will work with each other, etc. Read read read. And for a starter system, try to buy used equipment when possible. It's cheaper and if you decide that the hobby isn't for you then you are out a lot less money. See if anyone around you has SW experience to help you out with your setup. And keep us informed.
Cloudburst2000
Member
Basically, the differences between the light are the type of light. They use different technologies. Different types of lights color corals differently. LEDs capable of supporting corals are initially more expensive but they also use way less energy and don't require frequent replacement bulbs. They also run cooler than metal halides and T5s. Sometimes people who use hotter running lights also have to use a chiller on their tanks to keep the tank temperature down to acceptable levels. You might need a chiller anyway depending on the climate you live in and the ambient temperature of your residence. Some people swear by metal halides while some swear by T5s and then others are gung-ho LEDs. It really comes down to personal preference. That's why I suggest looking at systems utilizing the different types of lights to see what you like best. You can also use a combination. Some people use metal halides + T5s, some use LEDs + T5s, etc. Look at tank journals on this site to see how you like the look of corals under each type of light system. I had metal halides on the tank I just took down. It gave good growth and caused nice tank shimmer, but it didn't really make the colors of the corals pop. So I am switching to LEDs for my new tank.
And definitely do an external sump if possible. It will increase the water volume (more water volume helps dilute nutrients like nitrates) and also give you a place to hide equipment (heater, skimmer, etc). It also gives you the option of running a refugium or algae scrubber and running more types of media. And go for a good skimmer for the sump instead of a HOB skimmer. They usually perform better and are out of view.
Look at reviews for all types of equipment that you get. Cheap equipment is usually just that. Does not perform well or last long. Get good equipment the first time, but try to buy it use if possible. You can often find good used equipment from people either abandoning the hobby or changing to a different size tank that requires different size equipment. Also, be aware that most manufacturers over-state the effectiveness of their equipment. If they say the skimmer if good up to 50g, that probably means that it is really only good up to about 30g. So buy the next size up. And read read read.
And definitely do an external sump if possible. It will increase the water volume (more water volume helps dilute nutrients like nitrates) and also give you a place to hide equipment (heater, skimmer, etc). It also gives you the option of running a refugium or algae scrubber and running more types of media. And go for a good skimmer for the sump instead of a HOB skimmer. They usually perform better and are out of view.
Look at reviews for all types of equipment that you get. Cheap equipment is usually just that. Does not perform well or last long. Get good equipment the first time, but try to buy it use if possible. You can often find good used equipment from people either abandoning the hobby or changing to a different size tank that requires different size equipment. Also, be aware that most manufacturers over-state the effectiveness of their equipment. If they say the skimmer if good up to 50g, that probably means that it is really only good up to about 30g. So buy the next size up. And read read read.
For someone starting out in SW, i suggest FOWLR...stands for Fish only with Live rock....meaning no corals. Corals all require specific types/levels of light. Just to get the tank started, FOWLR is the simplest config. Fish and Live Rock dont care what kind of lights you have, though with default lights(ie fluorescent) algae growth will be slower. Do your homework on lighting before ya spend alot on it. Your best bet is to look up(here and elsewhere) what kind of animals you wish to keep. If corals for example, some require higher levels and specific colors of light, some are less picky. You can go 2 ways if you want to keep corals. Pick a type of light you can afford, then find out what kind of stuff u can keep with that light. OR go the other way. Decide what you want to keep, and find out what kind of light it requires. T5-12 and Metal Halide lights are cheaper initially, but the heat(and measures to control it) and bulb replacement are factors to consider. LED come in infinite configurations, and can be made to support virtually anything you might want to keep, but they are more expensive initially, but use less power and last longer, so are cheaper in the long run.
Me personally, having some knowledge of electronics, wiring, soldering etc...i am building my own LED fixture for my 55g, so i can progress to keeping corals. Im relatively new to SW, but im an old hand at electronic and electrical devices. Building my own makes sense at 1/2 the cost.
Substrate for a SW tank will primarily with rare exception be Live Sand. Aragonite is the preferred material of most i have talked to. you can get aquacultured live sand on ebay for dirt cheap. Live rock is tougher. Best solution is a Local store, though that can be pricey. If you wish to go off the net for LR ....tbsaltwater.com will treat you right. You can of course get it cheaper elsewhere, but cheaper usually means of lower quality.
Don't buy into the live sand thing from the bags at the pet stores. It's just dirty sand. A better idea I recommend is getting some sand out of another reefers tank. At least some of it and adding the some new sand as well. Personally, I use Aragonite sand.
I recommend looking on craigslist for live rock and sand. I've had good luck with it, great prices, anywhere from $1 a pound to $3 a pound. Or you could even make your own. Problem is with making your own it takes a long time to cure. In both my tanks I have Fiji Premium live rock. It is very light and very porous, despite the rocks having a lot of mass. Basically you want the rock to breathe!
Forgot to mention! I have 2 Golden Sleeperhead Gobies and I love them to death! Many people dislike them but the reason for the dislike is the main reason I enjoy them. They swoop down, get a big gulp of sand, and sift it through their gills while swimming back up. They basically make it snow sand. You should check out some videos on Youtube. The problem for some people is they cover their rocks and corals in sand!
Cloudburst2000
Member
You don't have to start with live anything. All live rock/sand really is is rock/sand that has the good bacteria built up on it. This is what happens when you cycle your tank. It takes longer to cycle the tank though if you start with all dry sand/rock. Many people use a combination of both live rock/dry rock and dry sand with maybe a cup of live sand from LFS or local reefer. It helps to speed up the cycle. The fastest cycle is to use all live rock and live sand. This is also the most expensive route to go. Also, be aware putting live rock/live sand in your tank can introduce unwanted guests (gorilla crabs, mantis shrimp, etc) but you can often get good stuff on the rock too (macroalgae, sponges, tunicates, corals, snails, etc). You likely won't get the good hitchhikers on live rock from your LFS because their LR is usually just rock that has the bacteria on it. To get the high quality LR with tons of life you normally have to order it from a vendor. A really good one is Tampa Bay Saltwater...they have excellent live rock actually pulled from the ocean and shipped in water instead of just wrapped in a wet cloth. They have an area in the gulf where they place dry rock for weeks to months and then go back and remove it after it has become inhabited with life. They don't actually harvest from coral reefs or anything. I am ordering my rock/sand for my new setup from them. But be warned, they are expensive because the rock is very high quality and you have to pick up packages from an airport because they ship overnight by plane. Buying enough LR/sand from them for a 55gallon setup would run you well over $500 before shipping. I think TBS overstates the amount of LR you need in the setup so I am buying a smaller package deal. I'm setting up a 36gallon tank but getting their package for a 25 gallon set-up which is 50lbs of LR and 25lbs of sand. This should be plenty expecially since I want a more minimalistic rock set-up. This package is going to run me over $300 and thats for a tank 20 gallons less then what you are setting up. If you want some really nice rock but at a cheaper price, use dry base rock from some place like www.reefcleaners.org and add some really nice LR to it.
Cloudburst2000
Member
And for sump designs, I would hit up the DIY section of this forum. The aquarium I am buying comes with the stand, sump, plumbing, and skimmer so I don't have to worry about designing it myself. I'm not technically inclined that way anyway 
Base rock is a misused term...some places say Base rock when they mean base rock...which is a type of live rock, just not as porous, not as pretty, and its usually choked with sand from having been buried in an aquaculture site. Some use base rock when what they mean is DRY rock...which is just porous rock usually from a fossil reef inland that has never touched SW in our lifetime. It low grade in either case. If you are building a Fowlr or reef tank on a budget, ya cant beat it for price. Prefered use is the lowest lvl of your reef shelf or structure, being the load bearing stone, quite often out of site. Base rock rarely comes with any hitchhikers, and DRY rock will slow down the cycle time of your new tank to a crawl that will make a snail seem fast.
as for sump designs, dont bother. By the time ya buy the mats and return pump, filter mats, recut the pieces 2 or 3 times to get em to fight tight enough, ya could buy a Prefab...for a sump go with a prefab, name brand...that at least will have a warranty on parts.
The six line wrasse isnt very aggressive in my experience and will get along with most fish of semi aggressive temperment. the compatibility issue with this wrasse is, its death incarnate for many types of inverts. I got rid of mine after it pestered to death both my pepermint shrimp and ate so many of my snails that my algae got out of control....for a 6line, ya need a big tank, so the invert population can withstand his hunting.
i have had FANTASTIC experience both FW and SW fish with PetSolutions | Pet Supplies for All Pets Since 1950 great customer service, good shipping practices, and if something does die, they do have 14 day guarantee. call and email a photo and you will get credit back.
as for sump designs, dont bother. By the time ya buy the mats and return pump, filter mats, recut the pieces 2 or 3 times to get em to fight tight enough, ya could buy a Prefab...for a sump go with a prefab, name brand...that at least will have a warranty on parts.
The six line wrasse isnt very aggressive in my experience and will get along with most fish of semi aggressive temperment. the compatibility issue with this wrasse is, its death incarnate for many types of inverts. I got rid of mine after it pestered to death both my pepermint shrimp and ate so many of my snails that my algae got out of control....for a 6line, ya need a big tank, so the invert population can withstand his hunting.
i have had FANTASTIC experience both FW and SW fish with PetSolutions | Pet Supplies for All Pets Since 1950 great customer service, good shipping practices, and if something does die, they do have 14 day guarantee. call and email a photo and you will get credit back.
Cloudburst2000
Member
You don't need a big tank for as six-line. I should think 30+ gallons is fine. I had one in my 30gallon to combat a flatworm problem and it did fine. It will eat your snails though so be aware of that. I always had more than enough snails so it wasn't a problem. John at ReefCleaners.org | Clean Up Crews and Macro Algae - Home sends TONS of extra snails when you order from him. And he has really cheap prices compared to LFS. Go to John for your clean-up crew.
And from what I hear, ReefCleaners.org | Clean Up Crews and Macro Algae - Home has some really nice base rock. If you get ONLY base rock then it will slow the cycling of the tank down drastically. If you get base rock plus some pieces of live rock, then it will speed the cycle up. The live rock will help seed the base rock.
And from what I hear, ReefCleaners.org | Clean Up Crews and Macro Algae - Home has some really nice base rock. If you get ONLY base rock then it will slow the cycling of the tank down drastically. If you get base rock plus some pieces of live rock, then it will speed the cycle up. The live rock will help seed the base rock.