Steve's LEDs

goma

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Check that the DIP switches are moving correctly
Check your Typhon wiring.
Check your typhon programming Does it show each channel is on with an intensity?
 

BTimmons

Active Member
The switches seem functional. Moving them to on enabled the lights without the typhon. The wiring looks secure. I still don't know the proper wiring configuration. I just made an educated guess using info in their variety of manuals
 

goma

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Looking at the manual regarding the wiring.

You should have positive which is the bottom of the Typhon connecting to the DIM connector, see below.


And ensure you are connected to the 5V side of the Typhon

 

goma

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
PREMIUM
Make sure the bottom wire (positive) is the one connected to the DIM (PWM).
 

BTimmons

Active Member
I had brief success. Thank you for your help. I got everything working through the Typhon and then I dropped the controller in my tank. Now the lcd screen does not work but the lights still function. Ordering a new Typhon now. Thank you for your help
 

hensleyac

Member
I purchased the 99% kit with the "use current timer and moonlight" option and all the extra options they offered. Everything going well except I have no idea how to connect the system to the Typhoon. I was provided 4 connectors that each have 2 wires coming from them (black and White). Wires are about 6 inches long and cut off at the other end.
 

dblasky

Member
I purchased them about 3 months ago for my 150g mixed reef tank with all the whistles (controller, lunar, 99% complete, standard configuration) and they are amazing. For the same tank I needed to purchase at least 3 of the modular ones. Way to expensive.
With the LED's there is no heat. My chiller don't even turn on. With my inverter air conditioning my tank temperature is at 77.7 in the morning when I wake up and after 10 hours of LED the temperature goes to 79.1. So know I have my Artica chiller as my main digital thermometer.
Dimming is also great. I started at 50% and went up gradually to 68. No more. Also I keep the manual dimmer on the actinics at 100% and the white down at 75% in order to have a more bluish look to my tank. And no more MH bulbs. I sold my ballast the other day and I had 13 spare MH bulbs. I didn't even wanted to count how much money I spent on bulbs but that convinced my wife to agree with me. Well good luck and go for it. One more thing, support is great and they return the email in a timely manner.
PS> My electric bill went down $200. I live in Puerto Rico. Right now is at 86 degrees outside.
 

hensleyac

Member
Go to page 27 of this thread to post #287. You'll see that wiring diagram there. Good luck!

Mine does not seem to match your diagram??? The 3 ports on the Power Box (L, N, and G) all came wired with a yellow open wire and 2 plugs at the other end. That plugs connected inside the hood.

Also wired from the power box is a plug with 2 red and 2 black wires. That plug fits the plug end from the white cable that goes to the dimmers in the hood.

I think I am just missing the cable that connects the Typhoon to the power box???

Lights are on and working with the built in timer (no connectivity to Typhoon) FYI - I just turned off the lights as the large silver power box is getting ridiculously hot (is that OK?).

Thanks so much for your help... starting to wonder if I should have taken this on?
 

Lexinverts

Member
On the diagram you see on page 20 of the thread, the 3-prong plug shown is not actually there. That part was removed for your 99% kit, and then that part of the cord connects to your hood.
The resulting yellow open wire on the power cord should be the ground. You want to crimp that to the free green wire in your hood. Mine came with a crimp already in place. The two other wires with plugs, then hook up to your relay.
This hooks up the power box to your hood.

I can't remember exactly what the cable from my Typhoon looks like. I will give it a look when I get home tonight.
 

BigJim70

Member
Mine does not seem to match your diagram??? The 3 ports on the Power Box (L, N, and G) all came wired with a yellow open wire and 2 plugs at the other end. That plugs connected inside the hood.

Also wired from the power box is a plug with 2 red and 2 black wires. That plug fits the plug end from the white cable that goes to the dimmers in the hood.

I think I am just missing the cable that connects the Typhoon to the power box???

Lights are on and working with the built in timer (no connectivity to Typhoon) FYI - I just turned off the lights as the large silver power box is getting ridiculously hot (is that OK?).

Thanks so much for your help... starting to wonder if I should have taken this on?

Do you have the black plug pictured in the diagram going into the Typhon controller? That should have been included and is used to connect the Typhon controller.

Is the fan working on the power supply? Mine gets a little hot, but your version of ridiculously hot might be different than mine. I wouldn't worry about it if the fan is running.

Contact Jeff at Steve's and I'm sure he will hook you up if you need the cable. I was having the same doubts a couple months ago and I am very happy with the lights now. The SPS in my tank are showing much more color and I have purchased several acro frags that are doing great. I was also able to unhook my chiller and save a good bit on my electric bill.
 
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