HELP! sps starting to bleach

Coraljunkie

Well-Known Member
Temp 77
Ammo 0 nitrite 0
Nitrate almost 0
Ph8.1
Alk 7.5 just realized it's low, is it low enough to cause this issue?
Cal 450
Recently I took some rocks out and replaced with dry rock and changed the aquascape, at the same time I dumped in a good amount of marine pure bio filter spheres. I just noticed my anemones color is fading and 2 acros are turning white. The flesh is still on them but they don't look very promising. The tank has been fallow since March 1 but every couple nights I throw in some pellets to make the cuc happy. On April 15 my alk was 9.1. I just changed out my chemi pure bag which was about a week away from having to be changed and I'm going to add some alk to slowly raise it up.
 

sirrealism

Well-Known Member
Is it low enough to hurt them? No but the fact that its dropping is. SPS are all about stability. I dont see a P04 test? If you started the tank at 7.5 then 7.5 would be fine. But they dont like change.
 

Coraljunkie

Well-Known Member
I've been trying to keep it between 9 and 10. I got stuck working double shifts this week so today I finally had time to test and observe. They don't look like rtn or stn. I can see the flesh on them still but they're losing color. I'm gonna try a few water changes over the weekend and slowly bump the alk up. Hopefully they bounce back
 

Oxylebius

Well-Known Member
Agree that it is possible that what trigger the bleaching was a change in alk. If a parameter like alk changes too quickly coral bleaching will occur, and it can happen very quickly. They really are that sensitive and don't like fluctuations. This is why they are classified as more difficult or experienced only.

If it is bleaching then you want to stop the metabolic reaction that is happening in the coral, moving it away from the light can sometimes help to stop that reaction. You can always move it back up in a couple of weeks or so.

One thing you can do to help the coral stay alive and recover after it has released its zooxanthellae (while bleaching), is to feed your sps corals. Corals have developed several unique ways of feeding; they receive nutrients from zooxanthella (symbiotic algae), capture particles such as plankton, and take up dissolved substances from the water. zooxanthellae provide the coral with nutrients to survive. Without zooxanthellae, the coral can starve. In a stable environment, after bleaching, corals have to reacquire their algae population in time, before they starve to death. By providing food for it, you can essentially keep it alive until the coral is able to recover zooxanthellae again.
 

reefer gladness

Well-Known Member
Good advice above. I'll add that if you are carbon dosing, and Chemi Pure does include carbon in the mixture - it's advised to keep alk in the 7-8 range so you're good where you are. Stability is key as mentioned before but I wouldn't want to run any higher than 8.5, high alkalinity has been to blame for may scorched SPS corals.

Phosphate levels may have spiked too, in fact I'd be surprised if they did not. Dry rock is notorious for leaching out phosphates for several months.
 

Oxylebius

Well-Known Member
Since they are sps, and very small polyps, you will want to feed it similarly sized foods. Items such as marine snow and phytoplankton can help. Watch the amount you feed and how often. You don't want to compound the issue with increased nutrients.

I feed my sps corals once a week w/a pipette for target feeding. I didn't feed them much at first, but I have been feeding them for a couple of years now. I mix marine snow with phytoplankton and frozen rotifers. The corals color-up nice after being fed. I've also seen polyps re-colonize areas where poylps had died away (feeding my encrusting purple haze monti repopulated polyps and the turbinaria came back).

I know that a lot of sps keepers still think that sps get all they need from the lights, but that is not true and recent science is starting to prove it wrong. SPS corals have developed several unique ways of feeding; they receive nutrients from symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae), capture particles such as plankton, and take up dissolved substances from the water. Research is also showing that when corals receive less light, a decline in growth rate can be prevented by providing additional plankton. And coral feeding quickly leads to increased tissue production and protein concentration.

Feeding sps also allow for implications to bring back a coral from a coral bleaching event. As long as the coral didn't loose its polyp tissue, a bleached coral can be kept alive if manually fed. A bleached coral won't have zooxanthellae to help feed it, so by manually feeding it zooplankton you allow the coral to survive (it won't starve) while it begins to obtain new zooxanthellae into its polyps again. This science is very cool! And can help many reefers from loosing corals to bleaching. It seems the old-time thing to do is to frag it and hope it survives... I would instead go the route of feeding the coral manually.

Article: Coral recovery from bleaching is highly dependent on food availability

Video of sps feeding:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/proof-positive-sps-corals-consume-zooplankton
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/12/aafeature
 
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Oxylebius

Well-Known Member
I edited my post above (from yesterday) to add more info on feeding for you. Some great links w/more info as well.

Sorry couldn't stay around yesterday, was in and out last night. Back on this morning.
-- So, how do the corals and anemone look today?
-- Has the bleaching stopped?
-- How does the anemone look?

Another question re: the marinepure rocks, did you rinse them before putting them in the tank? I heard that they can have dust on them.

Coral Bleaching

Here is more info on coral bleaching, to help you understand what is happening in the coral. Bleaching once started in a coral can act like a domino affect. Once triggered, all polyps in a coral tend to react and expel their symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae), what you want to do is to stop this reaction. If it were me, I think I would either move the coral to a lower location in the tank or minimize the light level. Other people frag their corals so that the frags can survive. I idea is that once the bleaching has started it is hard to stop until the whole coral bleaches. By fragging a few tips, at least you would save those bits and not end up loosing the entire coral.

What is happening to the coral when bleaching occurs?

Well, bleaching it is a regulatory process for the coral. Coral polyps can expel and incorporate zooxanthellae on a regular basis. They expel zooxanthellae to help regulate themselves.

Photosynthesis occurs within zooxanthellae, and produces glucose and oxygen for the coral, this is food for them. When coral bleaching occurs, too much oxygen is produced and is toxic to the coral. So, if the zooxanthellae is making too much oxygen, the coral expels the zooxanthellae (it is a regulatory process so the coral doesn’t obtain cell and organ damage from too much oxygen (which is toxic). We see this expelling of zooxanthellae as bleaching, the coral loosing its color.

Despite the fact that both the coral and the zooxanthellae happily make use of the produced glucose and oxygen (corals and zooxanthellae oxidize glucose back to H2O and CO2 to make ATP again, which at last provides the required metabolic energy), but there is a catch. Oxygen is toxic. Quite toxic. It reacts with a vast array of organic molecules present in coral and algal cells, damaging cell organelles (small “organs” of all living cells) and DNA stored in the cell’s nucleus. Yeah I just geeked out on you a little just then :biggrin:, but more in depth info doesn't hurt.

Article: This coral will self-destruct in ...

What to do now?
Maintain constant water parameters. No fluctuations. Keep bleached corals away from bright strong lights for a couple of weeks. Monitor the look of the corals, make sure there is still tissue and polyps on the coral. Polyps may be retracted. Monitor your ammonia and nitrates b/c you switched out rocks with established bacteria and added marinepure and reefrock which may not have enough established bacteria to breakdown fish/food waste (watch for a mini-cycle) Gather foods for your acros, get a pipette, feed every three days a very tiny amount spot feeding with pumps off for 5 minutes, then back on. Don't over feed, you need to maintain good water parameters. Keep up on weekly water changes. If you want to slowly raise Alk levels do it over the next 3-4 weeks. Don't raise them fast. The corals are already stressed, any more disturbance can be a deal breaker with them. Lastly, keep you hands out of the tank and don't mess w/it anymore. Maintain a constant state of parameters and allow the corals to recuperate.

Not sure what to do about the nem. Never had one nor worked w/one.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

Coraljunkie

Well-Known Member
Everything looks about the same. When the whites shut off last night there was still a little fluorescence on both acros. I did 2 4 gallon water changes so far and I'll probably do 1 or 2 more.
 
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