coppessfam
New Member
Has anyone ever used a Solenoid Valve along with a float for an Auto Top off system. Using the pressure of the RO to top off the a system.
AutoTopoff.com
AutoTopoff.com
Solenoid Valve for ATO
- Thread starter coppessfam
- Start date
corrado007
Active Member
Sounds like a cool idea to me, complete automation. I have read somewhere that it's a bit risky because if the solenoid sticks open or the float switch that controls it sticks, it will just keep going and could cause a fairly serious flood if not caught in time.
coppessfam
New Member
So you believe that the solenoid would be reliable?
coppessfam
New Member
I was planning on putting in two float valves to make sure it doesn't fail that way. As far as the Solenoid failing. That is my fear. It is going to be freshwater from the RO/DI so it won't have anything like calcium or salt to build up on it. I would install it before the Kalk Reactor. I will keep researching to see what I find. Thanks for the input.
The valve linked above is IMO lousy. Check out stcvalve.com for a good valve and even cheaper. I would suggest getting a 12vdc valve, the 110v versions do not last as long no matter which company you choose.
Don
cioutlaw
Well-Known Member
I use the ATO double low voltage solenoids & double floats hooked up directly to my RO/DI. I also hooked it up to a timer that is only on for about 45 min. per day. basicly both floats & the timer would have to fail to have a problem. I also dont want the RO cyling on & off all day so the timer works out great.
coppessfam
New Member
Great!
Thank You REEFWERKS I will check out the valves you suggested.
Thank You cioutlow I never thought of using a timer. That takes away the fear of the water flowing all the time if it were to fail.
Thank You REEFWERKS I will check out the valves you suggested.
Thank You cioutlow I never thought of using a timer. That takes away the fear of the water flowing all the time if it were to fail.
superman
Member
Here's a demo of a pretty cool product with some good fail safe measures.
Level-loc
YouTube - Level-Loc Product Demo
Level-loc
YouTube - Level-Loc Product Demo
dngspot
New Member
I have built a auto top off with a latching circuit and it has been working fine. Here is the link that I started it on DIY Auto Top Off - Wichita Aquarium Club Forums
Here is the information
I have had this sitting around for a time and thought that I might as well finish it. I built the latching circuit from a guy who put it on RC; I have since forgotten his name. I still have the schematic.
Today I made the bracket that will hold the float switches. One of the floats will set on top of the other. The way it works is the top float will drop and nothing will happen until the lower float drops then the RO system will start moving water via a solenoid valve. When water raises the lower float nothing happens until the water raises the upper float, then the water is shut off. The switches run on 12 volt DC and the solenoid sees 120 AC.
I made the circuit from parts found at Radio Shack. They consist of a relay, pc board and screw type terminals. Soldering one is pretty easy if you understand the schematic. It took me about 30 minutes.
I have been using a timer, solenoid and float valve to regulate my auto top off. I know that my tank uses about 4 gallons of water, through evaporation, My RO/DI is rated at 200 gpd, and I do not get that much because of water pressure. I know that I make over 5 gallons an hour, so I set the timer to stay on for an half hour in the morning and afternoon. When the water in the sump if full the float shuts off the water. This is not ideal because I still put the RO/DI against the float valve which builds TDS, The new system will shut the system down when the sump is full and not trickle through the float valve as water evaporates.
The bracket and float switch mounts are made from ¼ inch acrylic. I heated them until I could bend, the bracket was bent into an upside down channel, and the mounts are bent into an L.
I also ran the wire needed to the tank and through the basement to the RO/DI. I need to pick up some nylon screws and nuts for the bracket. So I am finished tonight.
The first pic shows the black wires joining to telephone wire. This wire was the cheapest I could find in the length I needed. It has 5 insulated wires that are insulated together. I stripped and soldered the 4 wires keeping the color configuration on paper. This is needed to make sure the wires make it back to the pc board in the order needed. This wire follows my line from the basement ro/di to the display upstairs. I used about 80 feet. This wire also only sees 12 volt and very little amperage, just enough to power the relay coil.
This pic is of the float switches in the sump on the bracket. I did a water change to set it up. The lower switch powers the relay coil when it lowers. This is about 7 gallons of sump water. I lowered it as low as I could before the sump return pump sucks air. When the upper switch raises it cuts off the power to the relay coil and water stops flowing. The mechanical float is set to stop the water about 1/2 inch above the float switch. The wires are a bit misleading, the lower one is about 1/4 of an inch from the top float, and the big wire in between the mechanical float and the switches does not make contact with anything.
The last pic is of the box and solenoid valve. The wire going into the top of the box is that flat telephone wire mentioned earlier. There are two other wires that come in one is from a 12 volt converter and the other is a 120 volt wire. The 12 volt converter is to energize the relay coil, I did this because I like the idea of a weak 12 volt current in the tank, 120 volts from the house grid does not sound good.
Here is the information
I have had this sitting around for a time and thought that I might as well finish it. I built the latching circuit from a guy who put it on RC; I have since forgotten his name. I still have the schematic.
Today I made the bracket that will hold the float switches. One of the floats will set on top of the other. The way it works is the top float will drop and nothing will happen until the lower float drops then the RO system will start moving water via a solenoid valve. When water raises the lower float nothing happens until the water raises the upper float, then the water is shut off. The switches run on 12 volt DC and the solenoid sees 120 AC.
I made the circuit from parts found at Radio Shack. They consist of a relay, pc board and screw type terminals. Soldering one is pretty easy if you understand the schematic. It took me about 30 minutes.
I have been using a timer, solenoid and float valve to regulate my auto top off. I know that my tank uses about 4 gallons of water, through evaporation, My RO/DI is rated at 200 gpd, and I do not get that much because of water pressure. I know that I make over 5 gallons an hour, so I set the timer to stay on for an half hour in the morning and afternoon. When the water in the sump if full the float shuts off the water. This is not ideal because I still put the RO/DI against the float valve which builds TDS, The new system will shut the system down when the sump is full and not trickle through the float valve as water evaporates.
The bracket and float switch mounts are made from ¼ inch acrylic. I heated them until I could bend, the bracket was bent into an upside down channel, and the mounts are bent into an L.
I also ran the wire needed to the tank and through the basement to the RO/DI. I need to pick up some nylon screws and nuts for the bracket. So I am finished tonight.
The first pic shows the black wires joining to telephone wire. This wire was the cheapest I could find in the length I needed. It has 5 insulated wires that are insulated together. I stripped and soldered the 4 wires keeping the color configuration on paper. This is needed to make sure the wires make it back to the pc board in the order needed. This wire follows my line from the basement ro/di to the display upstairs. I used about 80 feet. This wire also only sees 12 volt and very little amperage, just enough to power the relay coil.
This pic is of the float switches in the sump on the bracket. I did a water change to set it up. The lower switch powers the relay coil when it lowers. This is about 7 gallons of sump water. I lowered it as low as I could before the sump return pump sucks air. When the upper switch raises it cuts off the power to the relay coil and water stops flowing. The mechanical float is set to stop the water about 1/2 inch above the float switch. The wires are a bit misleading, the lower one is about 1/4 of an inch from the top float, and the big wire in between the mechanical float and the switches does not make contact with anything.
The last pic is of the box and solenoid valve. The wire going into the top of the box is that flat telephone wire mentioned earlier. There are two other wires that come in one is from a 12 volt converter and the other is a 120 volt wire. The 12 volt converter is to energize the relay coil, I did this because I like the idea of a weak 12 volt current in the tank, 120 volts from the house grid does not sound good.