Ross' Reef

R

rcoapstick

Member
So im preparing to move my 90 gallon mixed reef aquarium. I took this opportunity to build a new tank stand that will better fit my needs. Currently my stand has a 20 gal long tank that is separated into three chambers to make up the sump. The overflow drops the water into the left side of the sump through a filter sock into the first chamber where I have an ASM G-2 skimmer. Then the water overflows into the refugium portion of the sump that is approximately 10 gallons. The refugium has a 6 inch sand bed of oolite sand. I have a grow light with some chaeto in there. The chaeto is for nutrient export however I would estimated that the small chaeto ball I put in there 5 months ago has only tripled since i got it. So im not sure how effective the chaeto is for nutrient export in my current setup. From the refugium the water overflows into the final chamber which has a poly filter and then te return pump. THe return pump flows through a UV sterilizer that is on a timer. The UV sterilizer runs for 6 hours a day. I have no idea why i decided to do it, but it seems to work good. I have have had no parasites or sickness in any of my fish or corals.

So for my new stand I have designed it to allow me to place a 40 gallon breeder for my sump. I plan to incorporate some new additions to the sump. How should the new setup be. I will list the components of the new sump that I plan to have and I would like some help arranging them and possibly removing some from the equation completely. Also how should I separate the chambers of the sump? Any other suggestions I havent thought of are more than welcome.

Sump Components:
-Sock Filter
-Poly Filter
-ASM G2 Skimmer
-Refugium
-Deep sand bed (havent seen an extreme benefit to this currently)
-Reactors (I have none currently, but now would be the time to add them)
-Artica DBM-150 Chiller (cant wait to involve this guy somehow)
-UV sterilizer ( I like it, but im not attached to it)
-Auto top off
-Chaeto w/grow light
-Return pump (im gonna buy a new one that is 600gph) I have no idea how many GPH my current one is
-filter media(carbon, phosphate remover)

Lets see what we can come up with! I have twice as much room to work with now!

*I have no experience with reactors or chillers* please help me with these specifically
 
Last edited:
R

rcoapstick

Member
Here are some pics of the new tank stand before it gets a makeover. I took care to make it out of 2x4's and 2x6's because I wanted unobstructed access through the front of the stand. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1340167013.394645.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1340167026.426438.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1340167043.966926.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1340167127.349318.jpg
 
sk8rdn

sk8rdn

Has been struck by the ban stick
rcoapstick said:
So im preparing to move my 90 gallon mixed reef aquarium. I took this opportunity to build a new tank stand that will better fit my needs. Currently my stand has a 20 gal long tank that is separated into three chambers to make up the sump. The overflow drops the water into the left side of the sump through a filter sock into the first chamber where I have an ASM G-2 skimmer. Then the water overflows into the refugium portion of the sump that is approximately 10 gallons. The refugium has a 6 inch sand bed of oolite sand. I have a grow light with some chaeto in there. The chaeto is for nutrient export however I would estimated that the small chaeto ball I put in there 5 months ago has only tripled since i got it. So im not sure how effective the chaeto is for nutrient export in my current setup. From the refugium the water overflows into the final chamber which has a poly filter and then te return pump. THe return pump flows through a UV sterilizer that is on a timer. The UV sterilizer runs for 6 hours a day. I have no idea why i decided to do it, but it seems to work good. I have have had no parasites or sickness in any of my fish or corals.

So for my new stand I have designed it to allow me to place a 40 gallon breeder for my sump. I plan to incorporate some new additions to the sump. How should the new setup be. I will list the components of the new sump that I plan to have and I would like some help arranging them and possibly removing some from the equation completely. Also how should I separate the chambers of the sump? Any other suggestions I havent thought of are more than welcome.

Sump Components:
-Sock Filter
-Poly Filter
-ASM G2 Skimmer
-Refugium
-Deep sand bed (havent seen an extreme benefit to this currently)
-Reactors (I have none currently, but now would be the time to add them)
-Artica DBM-150 Chiller (cant wait to involve this guy somehow)
-UV sterilizer ( I like it, but im not attached to it)
-Auto top off
-Chaeto w/grow light
-Return pump (im gonna buy a new one that is 600gph) I have no idea how many GPH my current one is
-filter media(carbon, phosphate remover)

Lets see what we can come up with! I have twice as much room to work with now!

*I have no experience with reactors or chillers* please help me with these specifically
Click to expand...

PM Devon (built347) he's great with sumps. Even has a thread somewhere on sump design with walk through and pics.

....Insert Funny Signoff Here....
 
R

rcoapstick

Member
Look what came in the mail today!
What every person needs to add to their new stand. 2x 8-Channel Power Center. It's a power strip on steroids. Each component in my sump and tank will have it's own rocker switch! I Hope I won't be needing more than 16 different switches! Haha. This will be mounted to the frame of the stand today.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1340217403.585155.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1340217415.064808.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1340217426.254736.jpg
 
R

rcoapstick

Member
Where do you think these go better?
Side of stand, or front of stand above sump.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1340218488.617448.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1340218516.160990.jpg
Either way the panel that will cover will be hinged and close over the top of these. I like the front better, but don't want to impede on my head room when I'm working in the sump. Would it be safe to notch out a piece of the cross bar 2x4 for these two puppies to fit and then run a furring strip below them to reinforce it. That will save some space vertically... But is it safe to cut into the 2x4? I dont want anything collapsing on me. A 2x4 is a pretty substantial piece of wood. I believe most of the weight of the display tank will be differed to the corner 2x6's anyhow. Any thoughts?
 
dmatt88

dmatt88

Has been struck by the ban stick
American DJ. Every reefers best friend. Mount them where they can never ever get wet. Mine r on the outside of the stand on L brackets. No way id put them under with all the humidity n salt creep I get. Food for thought.

........uh oh rob has tapatalk.
 
dmatt88

dmatt88

Has been struck by the ban stick
Here's one of mine.

2012-06-20_17-13-49_464.jpg


..........used coral frags. half off.
 
dmatt88

dmatt88

Has been struck by the ban stick
If water get to them any way at all u short things out and run the risk of a fire. I kept them in the driest area I could. Under the tank by the sump is salt creep central. Salt, water and electricity work entirely too well together for my liking.

..........used coral frags. half off.
 
R

rcoapstick

Member
I forgot I had a 40 gallon acrylic aquarium in storage at my parents place. it measures 36 wide x 15 deep x 16 tall.
I had planned on buying a glass 40 gallon breeder tank. That is what the bottom of this new stand was designed for.
If you notice the offset support piece on the bottom left it is 36 inches from the right of the stand. This is perfect for both the 40 gallon acrylic or the 40 gallon breeder.
What are everyones thoughts on using the acrylic 40 gallon or the glass 40 gallon breeder

Acrylic dimensions (WxDxH)
- 36x15x16
Glass dimensions (WxDxH)
- 36x18.25x17

the glass 40 gallon breeder is larger? it would give me 3.25 extra inches of depth.

OH what a dilemma... A free slightly smaller tank, or a hunt for a cheap 40 gallon breeder????
 
dmatt88

dmatt88

Has been struck by the ban stick
I prefer an acrylic sump. No worries if u drop a heater etc.

..........used coral frags. half off.
 
R

rcoapstick

Member
dmatt88 said:
If water get to them any way at all u short things out and run the risk of a fire. I kept them in the driest area I could. Under the tank by the sump is salt creep central. Salt, water and electricity work entirely too well together for my liking.

..........used coral frags. half off.
Click to expand...

The wheels are turning.... I really, REALLY like the placement of these switches. I need to figure out a way to ensure they will never get wet. Maybe a solid barrier below the American DJ boxes, and a wooden "awning" over the top and side of the switch panels. If I am able to Isolate and seal off any possible pathways to the electrical components i should be alright. Humidity will always be an issue around a tank, so the only thing i could do to counter acts that is to put a fan blowing air from the outside of the stand inward to try to create a positive pressure area that humidified air from the sump cannot enter.
 
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