RODI agiean

burning2nd

Well-Known Member
ok again im asking about my RODI..


like this..

about 7 months of use... i changed my 3 sedament filters........ then about 2 months later i noticed the DI's needed changeing...... thos 2nd DI's lasted about 3 months b4 they changed color..... so i new the RO was time...

so then the RO.... week and half ago... then the Di's ageain....

LOOK----->>>> next time all at once.....

lesion number 2237 or reef keeping

replace all filters at once



no, maybe? what do you think?
 

BobBursek

Active Member
What is you water source? well, lake. resevior. ect. Do you have a TDS meter? I make up 60gal every 2 weeks on a 60gpd unit. I change the sedement and carbon block every 3 months, I have not yet had to change a RO membrane, my Ro out is 3TDS, then it goes to the DI and I change that when it hits 2 which last about 600gal of out put, all water is different, are you sure you have all fliters, RO in place right? Sometimes that is the problem after a change, friend/mentor just had that happen!
Bob
 

BobBursek

Active Member
What is you water source? well, lake. resevior. ect. Do you have a TDS meter? I make up 60gal every 2 weeks on a 60gpd unit. I change the sedement and carbon block every 3 months, I have not yet had to change a RO membrane, my Ro out is 3TDS, then it goes to the DI and I change that when it hits 2 which last about 600gal of out put, all water is different, are you sure you have all fliters, RO in place right? Sometimes that is the problem after a change, friend/mentor just had that happen!
Bob
 

JWarren

Active Member
Yup! Change them all at once!

I look at it this way, when the DI is toast, so are all the rest. Besides, it dosent cost all that much.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
WRONG, an RO membrane can go for thousands of gallons, where a sedement and carbon block can go for only hundreds of gallons depending on your water, DI can go for 200gal to 600+ depending again on your water, check to make sure your filters, membrane are seated in the canistiers.
Bob
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Forgot to say, unless you have a good and accurate TDS meter you are only guessing. You never said if you do? I have an inline one, 2 points of reading, I have it set up to read RO outlet which is 3 TDS about normal, thee other point is DI out reads 0-2 which I said previosly, when it hits 2 DI is changed, my hand held confirms the DI out, and have taken samples from the RO outlet to confirm the hand held with the inline probe.
 

cioutlaw

Well-Known Member
I dont know if Im just lucky or its the fact we have good water where I live but I havent changed ANYTHING in my RO/DI in 2 years & still get 0 TDS. DI is just starting to turn orange at the bottom.I just ordered A new setup today only because the current only makes 24GPD.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
Before I had TDS meters I was using the Kent color change DI and tossed it when it changed, go to THEFILTERGUYS.BIZ and talked to Jim. I get the DI from them, even after it changes colors I get 400gals he will explain it all, great stuff there and CS. If you are on a mucipitbality water source he can go on line why you are talking and get there water report.
 

JWarren

Active Member
Bob,

What might be WRONG for you, may be RIGHT for me.

IMO, starting off a post with "WRONG" is a bit rude and may lead to me not listening to you when you really have something to say. You seem eager to help out and that’s cool, but wow! Take it easy brother!
 

cioutlaw

Well-Known Member
Before I had TDS meters I was using the Kent color change DI and tossed it when it changed, go to THEFILTERGUYS.BIZ and talked to Jim. I get the DI from them, even after it changes colors I get 400gals he will explain it all, great stuff there and CS. If you are on a mucipitbality water source he can go on line why you are talking and get there water report.

I might change my filters & use it for the ice maker or something when my new unit gets here. I am on city water & I have heard we have pretty good water.
 

LiVEWiRE

Member
I have been looking on the net to see what my TDS should be for an RO unit but have found nothing. Looking here it looks like my filters should be replaced? What do you all think? I have a meter hooked up to my unit and going in is 342ppm and out is 33ppm. Should I change the filters? I have been running it for a few months now. more than 3 months. Does everyone change theirs about every 3 months? Or about how many gallons?
 

burning2nd

Well-Known Member
i dont have time for all that reading... i have DM2 tds meter somwhere about 150-30 tds in.... and ive never seen anything other then 0 comeing out....

id say it needs to be calirated....

whats this about installing wrong? that was a thought i had... cause the new Di's got smoked quick.... ive removed the ro and replaced it ageain.. thinking the seals didnt seal..

this is a well soruce.
 

BobBursek

Active Member
LiveWire,
not knowing your unit, but your Ro out should be lower then that unless, your ro membrane is spent or has a slight leak. I have a comunity well and my TDS's is 800+ before my system, and 3 RO out, 0-1 Di outlet.
 

LiVEWiRE

Member
The membrane should be good unless like you say there is some bypass. The filters are older than 3 months for sure. And its a 14-50GPD Coralline system It depends which Membrane you install. I will change the filters this weekend and see what I get then. I will also pull the membrane out and make sure its not getting bypass.
 
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 

burning2nd

Well-Known Member
its all takeing care of... thank you.

Im geting excess Co2 somwehere thats whats makeing the color changeing Di change color in like a weeks time... even tho Im good

my tds are 100-1-0
 
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