Q on hyposalinity treatment for ich

[huntersmoon]

I know it is probably annoying to see endless ich questions, but know that I have read the stickies in here - Quarantine Process, Hyposalinity Treatment Process, Ich Myths and Facts, What can go Wrong with Copper, Feeding Marine Fish. So now I just want to clear up a couple of details so I am properly prepared to treat my fish and I don't kill it instead.

As I mentioned in my intro yesterday, I currently have just one clown fish in a mini reef aquarium. She's outlived all of the other fish and we've not wanted to risk her to any newcomers. I noticed yesterday that it/she has ich. Sunday I noticed that the pump had become unplugged, and the next day the spots were there. The fish is not flashing, but it is breathing through its mouth rapidly.

I unfortunately do not have a QT set up (but am leaving in a few to get the supplies to do so). Since we had just the one fish, it didn't occur to me .

Q1: My understanding is that I need to choose between either the copper or the hyposalinity treatment. We are planning to do the hyposalinity and I want to confirm that I do not do any other treatment in conjunction (I know not to do copper in the hyposalinity tank, but do I give any other supplements or medications? I didn't see any mentioned in the hyposalinity or nutrition sticky - but am trying to read quickly and get out to get the supplies so I can begin treating it quickly, and might have overlooked it.)

Q2: As I understand it, the QT will not cycle quickly enough so I need to just start it with water from the DT and do frequent water changes until it is cycled.

Q2-a: In other words, I am to set up the QT as described and do the hyposalinity treatment as described, just changing the water as often as I need to until the tank cycles. Right?

Am I leaving out anything?

Many thanks, and sorry for repeating any questions whose answers I've overlooked.

Shannon

 

[TylerHaworth]

Q1: Correct, Hyopsalinity OR Copper... not both! As salinity falls, copper becomes more toxic

Q2: Again, correct - your Hospital/Quarantine won't be able to cycle while in Hyopsalinity or Copper states... start with display tank water, but use freshly made water afterwards...

Q3: See above, frequent water changes are to remove the ammonia and nitrite that will be produced... chances are that your hospital tank won't complete the cycle while you are treating the sick fish

Hope this helps for now... I'd say Lee will be along shortly with any additional information

 

[huntersmoon]

Thanks for the reply and for confirming things for me.

When I called around to find a refractometer, the person at the fish store (Aquatic Warehouse - Welcome www.AquaticWarehouse.com which is one of a handful of independent stores here) strongly urged me to do copper treatment and avoid hyposalinity. She said if I hadn't done a hyposalinity treatment before, it would be very difficult to get it right and I could kill the fish. She felt that the copper treatment would be less stressful. I've done the reading on this site and know that copper is effective but that it too must be very carefully monitored so as not to kill the fish. I know both treatments are risky if not done very precisely.

I have never done either treatment - for someone new to hyposalinity do you concur that I should do a copper treatment instead? I have no ties to either, I just want to make a good choice and proceed properly.

Thanks
Shannon

 

[leebca]

Sharon,

I have not verified that TylerHaworth's response is right or wrong -- I have not read it to save time. To answer your questions in the first and most recent post:

1. When you choose to do the hyposalinity treatment, there is no other treatment to do at the same time. The exception to this is if a secondary bacterial infection sets in. It is often the case where this parasite allows bacteria to get a foot-hold. In this case you'll need to have some antibiotic on hand to also treat the fish. I prefer the use of Maracyn Two for Saltwater fishes. I would have that on hand. If you instead decide to perform a copper treatment you still need to have this antibiotic on hand.

2. Correct. Do ammonia and nitrite readings about three or four times a day (using a test kit NOT dip sticks). Anytime you find a detectable reading of one or both, perform a very large water change (80% or more). Since you'll be making a large water change, you'll need to follow the guidelines here: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...7-how-make-safe-water-change-marine-fish.html Be prepared to make up to two or three such water changes per day. You can help control this need if you remove all uneaten foods and all wastes from the tank a couple of times per day. Get the sponge filter up and running as fast as you can.

2a. As above. You are correct.

Last post:
If the fish is severely infected (many, many, spots) then perform a freshwater bath and do a copper treatment. Time is too short to use the hyposalinity treatment. The FW bath is described here: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/31523-freshwater-dip-process.html You will follow those instructions EXCEPT leave the fish in the bath water no more than 10 minutes.

As from what you've read -- the copper treatment is easier on the hobbyist and harder on the fish; the hyposalinity is easier on the fish and harder for the hobbyist. There is no reason I know of, why you can't do either properly. You seem to be able to communicate and are smart enough.

Leaving nothing out, as far as I can see. Just follow the guildelines and ask (like you did) if you have questions on anything that isn't clear. I do get tired of these questions. But I'm here to help. you and your fishes.

 

[huntersmoon]

Thanks Lee,

The fish does have many spots, so I will do the freshwater bath and a copper treatment, and will make sure I have the antibiotic on hand as well.

Thanks
Shannon