prioritizing next C-130 upgrade

AFrederick

Active Member
I need the group's advice on the next most important upgrade for our C-130.

The tank has been up since October 2015. It has 2 little clowns and a small CUC (5 hermits and 3 snails). The clowns seem very healthy and we want to start adding corals. The long-term plan is some zoas, some LPS that will be "flowy" but hopefully peaceful enough, and finally SPS and a tridacna clam.

I've switched the stock power compact lights for Steve's LEDs and I have added a Tunze 3155 ATO.

What next?

I have it narrowed down to an Ecotech MP10 or ReefKeeper Lite.

The powerhead would give higher flow and more random flow which the corals would probably appreciate. And it also might deliver the final death blow to the dinos I've been battling.

The RKL could help me hold the temperature more stable. Right now, the tank is swinging about 3 degrees F; between 77.5 and 80.5. I am blaming this on the mechanical thermostat in the stock heater. An electronic heater control would also prevent a failure of the mechanical thermostat from cooking our tank.

Which should be higher on my list? Is there something I missed that should be a higher priority?
 

PSU4ME

JoePa lives on!!!
Staff member
PREMIUM
I think tank stability is the focus at this point so if you've got your water changing process down, a good RODI and good testing equipment you can start migrating to the nice to haves (mp10/controller).

Keep in mind your controller will only turn on your heater on the low range and unless you're running a chiller, you're going to deal with that temp swing anyway. 77-80 isn't bad at all and rather normal. The controller does give you that safety aspect of not cooking the tank.

As for the mp10, this gets my vote because flow is huge IMO. Keeps the tank moving, detritus suspended and it give the inhabitants a bit more natural feel.
 

AFrederick

Active Member
Thanks PSU. I use the BRS 6 stage Universal to brew my RO/DI, a BRS refractometer for salinity, and the Red Sea test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and alkalinity. I will have to get calcium, magnesium, etc. test kits once I put corals in.

I think I agree the MP10 is next on the list. I appreciate your thoughts on the importance of flow.

I also feel better with an experienced aquarist like yourself telling me the temperature swings I've got are not too bad.

I see what you are saying about the controller only turning the heater on, but with the winter weather I don't think I need a chiller quite yet. I think the heater is kicking on when the water gets down to 77.5 and isn't cutting off until the water get's up to 80.5. Hopefully the RKL would be more accurate than the bi-metal thermostat in the heater.

In any event, I will have to get a chiller this spring. I was going to plug the fans into the controller but I'm not sure how effective that would be versus just keeping the fans running 24/7.
 

PSU4ME

JoePa lives on!!!
Staff member
PREMIUM
You're most certainly welcome! The heater not turning off till 80 is something a controller will definitely help with. Fans are also great to control too but all they need is a simple timer set to turn on when your lights do.

Sounds like a controller isn't far off for you if you're looking at a chiller too.
 
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