Planted article revision help

PEMfish

Well-Known Member
I have just typed up this article tonight and know that I always think my writing is acceptable when its fresh. It not for months that i start to see the flaws.
I am asking for help revising it.
Watch to be sure of;
consistency of terms
No repetitiveness
Ease of reading; flow
Voice; somewhere between good novel and official medical journal entry is good.
Content; is there anything lacking?
Mechanics; wrong words used?

Thank you all
Once I come up with a final version I will post it here.


Alright, so the file is too big. I will paste it into this post;
Pictures were lost, anyone that would like to receive a copy of the file once I get it finished please PM your e-mail address when I post the article.

Aquascaping a Planted Aquarium
By Paul Moreau

Building the system in witch you keep your fresh water fish and plants is a science. Little to no skill or talent is required here, just raw knowledge, the more you posses the greater the outcome will be. Good equipment used effectively will be necessary to create a breathtaking display. But what is needed to make the actual display beautiful is an art. I, nor anyone can teach you that talent. It can be learned, but not taught. I can, however show you some of the things that make the great displays great.

Like I said before, the equipment needs to be up to your goals as you are. There are several different routs to go with it and that’s not what I am trying to explain here. I will say the tank needs to be at least 18 inches wide, and no more than 24 inches tall for the average hobbyist. Exceptions are rare for most people’s goals but a well skilled hobbyist, Takashi Amano has built one with stunning results.
Once you have your equipment in place you will need to do your hard scape. The hard scape is the dry layout consisting of rock, driftwood, and substrate. Your hard scape will need to have a strong visual flow to bring you a pleasing end result. Do not plan to use plants to create flow, instead use the plants to enhance the flow, and never let them contradict it. You must have a complete final plan of what you will be doing in the way of plants before you can complete your hard scape. A red bush like bunch of plants is commonly used as the focal point. You must know what you will use for the focal point and where it will go. My recommended spot involves what is not technically, but often referred to as the perfect number. I believe its comes from religion. 1.618 is the one I am talking about. Divide the length of your tank by it and the number you get is how far from a side you should place your focal point. But you can place it wherever you want; another common place is on a thirds mark. Notice it is never centered. The visual flow should start or end at the focal point as the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it and the flow will guide their gaze. Without strong flow and focal point there will be no obvious place to look making the tank seem cluttered and stressful. A few large objects should be used over many small ones. Be sure that the grain and shape of the wood and the texture patter of rock align to the flow you are trying to create.

The profile of you aquascpe can have an impact far more powerful than commonly realized. The most common profile shape seen in great tanks is a V shape. A slanted one may also be used, or for tanks with a more cube like shape a solid profile shape all across with only the sides absent can be used. The profile should fallow and enhance the flow. The revealed background should be solid color as to not draw attention, distracting from the display. White and blue are used but nothing is used more than black. White creates a sense of continuance. The human mind is curios, this color will add interest. Blue can be distracting if the right shade is not chosen. Most steer away from this color. Black makes the colors pop and absorbs most light shifting attention to the plants. The edge of the profile should be a clean line, not a layer of plants you can see through.

The foreground can reveal the substrate or hide it- preferring do use the plants as a strong point, not the lines. Due to the fact that most foregrounds are only a small section of the tank a plant that fallows the scale should be used. One with many small leaves and no predominant stems is best. The boundaries should vary wile complimenting the scheme of the tank giving the tank a natural look. It should flow into the mid ground while contrasting to it in color and texture.

The focal point and majority content is held in the mid ground of most aquascapes. Here groups of plants are grown and hard objects are placed. The colors come alive and contrast is at its peak. With colors and textures all around the chance to create strong contrast witch will show off the beauty of your plants is great. Since most Focal points are held in this layer flows dominant areas bring the viewers eye here. Use that to make the display breath taking. Large clumps of plants are better than small ones. Not only dose that keep the look of the display simple enough to channel attention to the strong points but it keeps the viewer from being able to see through the clumps of species making the plants seem healthier and thus giving the overall look of the display a better appeal.

Usually blending smoothly into the mid ground the background is a less extraordinary layer. It rarely holds interest and is often there just to complement the grand scheme of the aquasape. A single pieces is often chosen, a stemmed plant or val works well.

Plant choice is the factor that will in the end, make your display a wonder or a wreck. Try to find plants for your needs, instead of trying to work in a species that you adore. Be sure your equipment can support every choice and the species will fit well in its designated space. It should contrast to those around it and grow into a dense bush like patch. Large leaf and red plants should be used sparingly as they draw attention to themselves and can take away from the scheme of the aquascape. Be sure they will take to the height you need them to as large steps in height will make the tank look unfinished.

To create your dream tank you will need practice. You will not accomplish it on your fist few tries. A stunning tank is not as common as the average turnaround rate of this hobby is five years. Do not get discouraged; you are not in a fast paced hobby. Keep at it and it will come. Your equipment must be up to par witch means a bit more spending than most anticipate but it will be worth it for years to come. Do alot of research, then some more. There is an infinite amount of knowledge to be known and unlocked in this hobby. Keep rigorously involved and you will not be bored.
 

framerguy

Well-Known Member
I have just typed up this article tonight and know that I always think my writing is acceptable when its fresh. It not for months that i start to see the flaws.
I am asking for help revising it.
Watch to be sure of;
consistency of terms
No repetitiveness
Ease of reading; flow
Voice; somewhere between good novel and official medical journal entry is good.
Content; is there anything lacking?
Mechanics; wrong words used?

Thank you all
Once I come up with a final version I will post it here.


Alright, so the file is too big. I will paste it into this post;
Pictures were lost, anyone that would like to receive a copy of the file once I get it finished please PM your e-mail address when I post the article.

Aquascaping a Planted Aquarium
By Paul Moreau

Building the system in which you keep your fresh water fish and plants is a science. Little to no skill or talent is required here, just raw knowledge, the more you posses(spelling doesn't seem right, but probably is) the greater the outcome will be. Good equipment used effectively will be necessary to create a breathtaking display. But what is needed to make the actual display beautiful is an art. I, nor anyone can teach you that talent. It can be learned, but not taught. I can, however show you some of the things that make the great displays great.

Like I said before, the equipment needs to be up to your goals as you are. There are several different routs to go with it and that’s not what I am trying to explain here. I will say the tank needs to be at least 18 inches wide, and no more than 24 inches tall for the average hobbyist. Exceptions are rare for most people’s goals but a well skilled hobbyist, Takashi Amano has built one with stunning results.
Once you have your equipment in place you will need to do your hard scape. The hard scape is the dry layout consisting of rock, driftwood, and substrate. Your hard scape will need to have a strong visual flow to bring you a pleasing end result. Do not plan to use plants to create flow, instead use the plants to enhance the flow, and never let them contradict it. You must have a complete final plan of what you will be doing in the way of plants before you can complete your hard scape. A red bush like bunch of plants is commonly used as the focal point. You must know what you will use for the focal point and where it will go. My recommended spot involves what is not technically, but often referred to as the perfect number. I believe its comes from religion. 1.618 is the one I am talking about. Divide the length of your tank by it and the number you get is how far from a side you should place your focal point. But you can place it wherever you want; another common place is on a thirds mark. Notice it is never centered. The visual flow should start or end at the focal point as the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it and the flow will guide their gaze. Without strong flow and focal point there will be no obvious place to look making the tank seem cluttered and stressful. A few large objects should be used over many small ones. Be sure that the grain and shape of the wood and the texture patter of rock align to the flow you are trying to create.

The profile of your aquascape can have an impact far more powerful than commonly realized. The most common profile shape seen in great tanks is a V shape. A slanted one may also be used, or for tanks with a more cube like shape a solid profile shape all across with only the sides absent can be used. The profile should follow and enhance the flow. The revealed background should be solid color as to not draw attention, distracting from the display. White and blue are used but nothing is used more than black. White creates a sense of continuance. The human mind is curios, this color will add interest. Blue can be distracting if the right shade is not chosen. Most steer away from this color. Black makes the colors pop and absorbs most light shifting attention to the plants. The edge of the profile should be a clean line, not a layer of plants you can see through.

The foreground can reveal the substrate or hide it- preferring to use the plants as a strong point, not the lines. Due to the fact that most foregrounds are only a small section of the tank a plant that follows the scale should be used. One with many small leaves and no predominant stems is best. The boundaries should vary while complimenting the scheme of the tank giving the tank a natural look. It should flow into the mid ground while contrasting to it in color and texture.

The focal point and majority content is held in the mid ground of most aquascapes. Here groups of plants are grown and hard objects are placed. The colors come alive and contrast is at its peak. With colors and textures all around the chance to create strong contrast which will show off the beauty of your plants is great. Since most Focal points are held in this layer flows dominant areas bring the viewers eye here.(sentence structure?) Use that to make the display breath taking. Large clumps of plants are better than small ones. Not only does that keep the look of the display simple enough to channel attention to the strong points but it keeps the viewer from being able to see through the clumps of species making the plants seem healthier and thus giving the overall look of the display a better appeal.

Usually blending smoothly into the mid ground, the background is a less extraordinary layer. It rarely holds interest and is often there just to complement the grand scheme of the aquasape. A single piece is often chosen, a stemmed plant or val(vase?) works well.

Plant choice is the factor that will in the end, make your display a wonder or a wreck. Try to find plants for your needs, instead of trying to work in a species that you adore. Be sure your equipment can support every choice and the species will fit well in its designated space. It should contrast to those around it and grow into a dense bush like patch. Large leaf and red plants should be used sparingly as they draw attention to themselves and can take away from the scheme of the aquascape. Be sure they will take to the height you need them to as large steps in height will make the tank look unfinished.

To create your dream tank you will need practice. You will not accomplish it on your first few tries. A stunning tank is not as common as the average turnaround rate of this hobby is five years.(restructure) Do not get discouraged; you are not in a fast paced hobby. Keep at it and it will come. Your equipment must be up to par which means a bit more spending than most anticipate but it will be worth it for years to come. Do a lot of research, then some more. There is an infinite amount of knowledge to be known and unlocked in this hobby. Keep rigorously involved and you will not be bored.
I hope I am doing what you asked for. First of all, I really enjoyed the article. I highlighted what I THINK are errors in grammar, but I am not a language expert. If anything I highlighted are the way you intended, then please completely disregard it. Nice job!
 

PEMfish

Well-Known Member
After adding a paragraph and taking all the suggestion into account I have come up wit this;

Aquascaping a Planted Aquarium
By Paul Moreau


Building the system in which you keep your fresh water fish and plants is a science. Little to no skill or talent is required here, just raw knowledge, the more you possess the greater the outcome will be. Good equipment used effectively will be necessary to create a breathtaking display. But what is needed to make the actual display beautiful is an more of an art. It’s a talent you can’t be taught. It can only be learned by practice. I can show you some things that make the great displays great, but you must take it upon yourselves to gain the skill required to accomplish a prized display.

Like I said before, you need equipment that’s able to sustain the life’s you decide to keep. There are several different routs to go with it and that’s not what I am trying to explain here. I will say the tank needs to be at least 18 inches wide, and no more than 24 inches tall for the average hobbyist. Once you have your equipment in place you will need to do your hard scape. The hard scape is the dry layout consisting of rock, driftwood, and substrate. Your hard scape will need to have a strong visual flow to bring you a pleasing end result. Do not plan to use plants to create flow, instead use the plants to enhance the flow, and never let them contradict it. You must have a complete final plan of what you will be doing in the way of plants before you can complete your hard scape. You must know what you will use for the focal point and where it will go. A red bush like bunch of plants is commonly used as the focal point. My recommended spot involves what is not technically, but often referred to as the perfect number; 1.618. Divide the length of your tank by it and the number you get is how far from a side you should place your focal point. You can place it wherever you want; another common place is on a thirds mark. Notice it is never centered. The visual flow should start or end at the focal point as the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it, and the flow will guide their gaze. Without strong flow and focal point there will be no obvious place to look making the tank seem cluttered and stressful. A few large objects should be used over many small ones. Rock and drift wood are the common choices. Be sure that the grain and shape of the wood and the texture patter of rock align to the flow you are trying to create.

Driftwood in itself holds many options. The kind most commonly seen in local fish stores is common north American. It is usually the most economical. It varies widely in size and shape. There are many other types with more prestige. Mopani, Savanna root, Malaysian, bogwood, and cork bark to name some. Mopani has a twisted look, and as well as Savanna root it comes from Africa. Savanna root has a long slender shape often with many branches. Malaysian normally has a full shape with many points. Bog wood commonly comes from the southern US and can vary widely in appearance but usually has a chunky look. Cork bark will float if not anchored and is rarely used for anything other than hiding equipment. When purchased driftwood is dry, containing no water. In this state is less dense than water causing it to float. In order to use in a display you must weigh it down in a bucket of water until it becomes water logged enough to sink on it own. This may take several weeks. During this time tannic acid that the wood naturally contains will leach out. It will color the water a deep brown, so it is best to let this happen before adding it to your display. Boiling the wood can speed the leaching. If you collect your own driftwood you should boil it to rid it of any foreign organisms that may be living in the wood.

The profile of you aquascpe can have an impact far more powerful than commonly realized. The most common profile shape seen in great tanks is a V shape. A slanted one may also be used, or for tanks with a more cube like shape a solid profile shape all across with only the sides absent can be used. The profile should fallow and enhance the flow. The revealed background should be solid color as to not draw attention, distracting from the display. White and blue are used but nothing is used more than black. White creates a sense of continuance. The human mind is curios, this color will add interest. Blue can be distracting if the right shade is not chosen. Most steer away from this color. Black makes the colors pop and absorbs most light shifting attention to the plants. The edge of the profile should be a clean line, not a layer of plants you can see through.

The foreground can reveal the substrate or hide it- preferring to use the plants as a strong point, not the lines. Due to the fact that most foregrounds are only a small section of the tank a plant that follows the scale should be used. One with many small leaves and no predominant stems is best. The boundaries should vary wile complimenting the scheme of the tank giving the tank a natural look. It should flow into the mid ground while contrasting to it in color and texture.

The focal point and majority content is held in the mid ground of most aquascapes. Here groups of plants are grown and hard objects are placed. The colors come alive and contrast is at its peak. With colors and textures all around the chance to create strong contrast which will show off the beauty of your plants is great. Since most Focal points are held in this layer the dominant areas of flow bring the viewers eye here. Use that to make the display breath taking. Large clumps of plants are better than small ones. Not only does that keep the look of the display simple enough to channel attention to the strong points but it keeps the viewer from being able to see through the clumps of species- making the plants seem healthier and thus giving the overall look of the display a better appeal.

Usually blending smoothly into the mid ground the background is a less extraordinary layer. It rarely holds interest and is often there just to complement the grand scheme of the aquasape. A single species is often chosen, a stemmed plant or val works well.

Plant choice is the factor that will in the end, make your display a wonder or a wreck. Try to find plants for your needs, instead of trying to work in a species that you adore. Be sure your equipment can support every choice and the species will fit well in its designated space. It should contrast to those around it and grow into a dense bush like patch. Large leaf and red plants should be used sparingly as they draw attention to themselves and can take away from the scheme of the aquascape. Be sure they will take to the height you need them to as large steps in height will make the tank look unfinished.

To create your dream tank you will need practice. You will not accomplish it on your first few tries. A stunning tank is an uncommon sight because the average turnaround rate in this hobby is five years. Do not get discouraged; you are not in a fast paced hobby. Keep at it and it will come. Your equipment must be up to par witch means a bit more spending than most anticipate but it will be worth it for years to come. Do alot of research, then some more. There is an infinite amount of knowledge to be known and unlocked in this hobby. Keep rigorously involved and you will not be bored.





Thank you all
 

framerguy

Well-Known Member
Excellent!

paragraph 2, last sentence- "pattern" needs an "n"
last paragraph, sixth sentence-"witch" should be "which"

I like the bog wood paragraph addition. Makes me want to try freshwater again. Where are you planning on publishing it?
 

PEMfish

Well-Known Member
No plans yet, I just need to know I can do it before trying to get it published.

Its the extra eyes thats going to make it good, so thanks.
 

PEMfish

Well-Known Member
Aquascaping a Planted Aquarium
By Paul Moreau


Building the system in which you keep your fresh water fish and plants is a science. Little to no skill or talent is required here, just raw knowledge, the more you possess the greater the outcome will be. Good equipment used effectively will be necessary to create a breathtaking display. But what is needed to make the actual display beautiful is an more of an art. It’s a talent you can’t be taught. It can only be learned by practice. You can be shown some things that make the great displays great, but you must take it upon yourselves to gain the skill required to accomplish a prized display.

Like mentioned before, you need equipment that’s able to sustain the life’s you decide to keep. There are several different routs to go with it and that’s not the topic of this article. For the average hobbyst the tank needs to be at least 18 inches wide, and no more than 24 inches tall. Once you have your equipment in place you will need to do your hard scape. The hard scape is the dry layout consisting of rock, driftwood, and substrate. Your hard scape will need to have a strong visual flow to bring you a pleasing end result. Do not plan to use plants to create flow, instead use the plants to enhance the flow, and never let them contradict it. You must have a complete final plan of what you will be doing in the way of plants before you can complete your hard scape. You must know what you will use for the focal point and where it will go. A red bush like bunch of plants is commonly used as the focal point. A commonly recommended spot involves what is not technically, but often referred to as the perfect number; 1.618. Divide the length of your tank by it and the number you get is how far from a side you should place your focal point. You can place it wherever you want; another common place is on a thirds mark. Notice it is never centered. The visual flow should start or end at the focal point as the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it, and the flow will guide their gaze. Without strong flow and focal point there will be no obvious place to look making the tank seem cluttered and stressful. A few large objects should be used over many small ones. Rock and drift wood are the common choices. Be sure that the grain and shape of the wood and the texture pattern of rock align to the flow you are trying to create.

Driftwood in itself holds many options. The kind most commonly seen in local fish stores is common north American. It is usually the most economical. It varies widely in size and shape. There are many other types with more prestige. Mopani, Savanna root, Malaysian, bogwood, and cork bark to name some. Mopani has a twisted look, and as well as Savanna root it comes from Africa. Savanna root has a long slender shape often with many branches. Malaysian normally has a full shape with many points. Bog wood commonly comes from the southern US and can vary widely in appearance but usually has a chunky look. Cork bark will float if not anchored and is rarely used for anything other than hiding equipment. When purchased driftwood is dry, containing no water. In this state is less dense than water causing it to float. In order to use in a display you must weigh it down in a bucket of water until it becomes water logged enough to sink on it own. This may take several weeks. During this time tannic acid that the wood naturally contains will leach out. It will color the water a deep brown, so it is best to let this happen before adding it to your display. Boiling the wood can speed the leaching. If you collect your own driftwood you should boil it to rid it of any foreign organisms that may be living in the wood.

The profile of you aquascpe can have an impact far more powerful than commonly realized. The most common profile shape seen in great tanks is a V shape. A slanted one may also be used, or for tanks with a more cube like shape a solid profile shape all across with only the sides absent can be used. The profile should fallow and enhance the flow. The revealed background should be solid color as to not draw attention, distracting from the display. White and blue are seen but nothing is used more than black. White creates a sense of continuance. The human mind is curios, this color will add interest. Blue can be distracting if the right shade is not chosen. Most steer away from this color. Black makes the colors pop and absorbs most light shifting attention to the plants. The edge of the profile should be a clean line, not a layer of plants you can see through.

The foreground can reveal the substrate, or hide it- preferring to use the plants as a strong point, not the lines. Due to the fact that most foregrounds are only a small section of the tank a plant that follows the scale should be used. One with many small leaves and no predominant stems is best. The boundaries should vary wile complimenting the scheme of the tank giving it a natural look. It should flow into the mid ground while contrasting to it in color and texture.

The focal point and majority content is held in the mid ground of most aquascapes. Here groups of plants are grown and hard objects are placed. The colors come alive and contrast is at its peak. With colors and textures all around the chance to create strong contrast which will show off the beauty of your plants is great. Since most Focal points are held in this layer the dominant areas of flow bring the viewers eye here. Use that to make the display breath taking. Large clumps of plants are better than small ones. Not only does that keep the look of the display simple enough to channel attention to the strong points but it keeps the viewer from being able to see through the clumps of species- making the plants seem healthier and thus giving the overall look of the display a better appeal.

Usually blending smoothly into the mid ground the background is a less extraordinary layer. It rarely holds interest and is often there just to complement the grand scheme of the aquasape. A single species is often chosen, a stemmed plant or val works well.

Plant choice is the factor that will in the end, make your display a wonder or a wreck. Try to find plants for your needs, instead of trying to work in a species that you adore. Be sure your equipment can support every choice and the species will fit well in its designated space. It should contrast to those around it and grow into a dense bush like patch. Large leaf and red plants should be used sparingly as they draw attention to themselves and can take away from the scheme of the aquascape. Be sure they will take to the height you need them to as large steps in height will make the tank look unfinished.


To create your dream tank you will need practice. You will not accomplish it on your first few tries. A stunning tank is an uncommon sight because the average turnaround rate in this hobby is five years. Do not get discouraged; you are not in a fast paced hobby. Keep at it and it will come. Your equipment must be up to par which means a bit more spending than most anticipate but it will be worth it for years to come. Do alot of research, then some more. There is an infinite amount of knowledge to be known and unlocked in this hobby. Keep rigorously involved and you will not be bored.
 

XBwlr

Well-Known Member
"The kind most commonly seen in local fish stores is common north American."

Too many commons... ?
How about,
The kind seen in most local fish stores is common North American.
 

PEMfish

Well-Known Member
Aquascaping a Planted Aquarium
By Paul Moreau


Building the system in which you keep your fresh water fish and plants is a science. Little to no skill or talent is required here, just raw knowledge, the more you possess the greater the outcome will be. Good equipment used effectively will be necessary to create a breathtaking display. But what is needed to make the actual display beautiful is an more of an art. It’s a talent you can’t be taught. It can only be learned by practice. You can be shown some things that make the awing displays great, but you must take it upon yourselves to gain the skill required to accomplish a prized display.

Like mentioned before, you need equipment that’s able to sustain the life’s you decide to keep. There are several different routs to go with it and that’s not the topic of this article. For the average hobbyist the tank needs to be at least 18 inches wide, and no more than 24 inches tall. Once you have your equipment in place you will need to do your hard scape. The hard scape is the dry layout consisting of rock, driftwood, and substrate. Your hard scape will need to have a strong visual flow to bring you a pleasing end result. Do not plan to use plants to create flow, instead use the plants to enhance the flow, and never let them contradict it. A complete final plan of what you will be doing in the way of plants before you can complete your hard scape will greatly help you. You must also know what you will use for the focal point and where it will go. A red bush like bunch of plants is sometimes used as the focal point because the red contrasts to the green plants around it. A commonly recommended spot involves what is not technically, but often referred to as the perfect number; 1.618. Divide the length of your tank by it and the number you get is how far from a side you should place your focal point. Another common place is on a thirds mark. Notice it is never to be centered. The visual flow should start or end at the focal point as the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it, and the flow will guide their gaze. Without strong flow and focal point there will be no obvious place to look making the tank seem cluttered and stressful. A few large objects should be used over many small ones. Rock and drift wood are the common choices. Be sure that the grain and shape of the wood and the texture pattern of rock align to the flow you are trying to create.

Driftwood in itself holds many options. The kind seen in most local fish stores is common north American. It is usually the most economical. It varies widely in size and shape. There are many other types with more prestige. Mopani, Savanna root, Malaysian, bogwood, and cork bark to name some. Mopani has a twisted look, and as well as Savanna root it comes from Africa. Savanna root has a long slender shape often with many branches. Malaysian normally has a full shape with many points. Bog wood commonly comes from the southern US and can vary widely in appearance but usually has a chunky look. Cork bark will float if not anchored and is rarely used for anything other than hiding equipment. When purchased driftwood is dry, containing no water. In this state is less dense than water causing it to float. In order to use in a display you must weigh it down in a bucket of water until it becomes water logged enough to sink on its own. This may take several weeks. During this time tannic acid that the wood naturally contains will leach out. It will color the water a deep brown, it is best to let this happen before adding it to your display. If you collect your own driftwood you should boil it to rid it of any foreign organisms that may be living in the wood. The boiling will also speed up the leaching of the tannic acid.

The profile of you aquascpe can have an impact far more powerful than commonly realized. The most common profile shape seen in great tanks is a V shape. A slanted one may also be used, or for tanks with a more cube like shape a solid profile shape all across with only the sides absent can be used. The profile should fallow and enhance the flow. The revealed background should be solid color as to not draw attention, distracting from the display. White and blue are seen but nothing is used more than black. White creates a sense of continuance. The human mind is curios, this color will add interest. Blue can be distracting if the right shade is not chosen. Most steer away from this color. Black makes the colors pop and absorbs most light shifting attention to the plants. The edge of the profile should be a clean line, not a layer of transparent plants.

The foreground can reveal the substrate, or hide it- preferring to use the plants as a strong point, not the lines. Due to the fact that most foregrounds are only a small section of the tank a plant that follows the scale should be used. One with many small leaves and no predominant stems is best. The boundaries should vary wile complimenting the scheme of the tank giving it a natural look. It should flow into the mid ground while contrasting to it in color and texture.

The focal point and majority content is held in the mid ground of most aquascapes. Here groups of plants are grown and hard objects are placed. The colors come alive and contrast is at its peak. With colors and textures all around the chance to create strong contrast which will show off the beauty of your plants is great. Since most Focal points are held in this layer the dominant areas of flow bring the viewers eye here. Use that to make the display breath taking. Large clumps of plants are better than small ones. Not only does that keep the look of the display simple enough to channel attention to the strong points but it keeps the viewer from being able to see through the clumps of species- making the plants seem healthier and thus giving the overall look of the display a better appeal.

Usually blending smoothly into the mid ground the background is a less extraordinary layer. It rarely holds interest and is often there just to complement the grand scheme of the aquasape. A single species is often chosen, a stemmed plant or val works well.

Plant choice is the factor that will in the end, make your display a wonder or a wreck. Try to find plants for your needs, instead of trying to work in a species that you adore. Be sure your equipment can support every choice and the species will fit well in its designated space. It should contrast to those around it and grow into a dense bush like patch. Large leaf and red plants should be used sparingly as they draw attention to themselves and can take away from the scheme of the aquascape. Be sure they will take to the height you need them to as large steps in height between plants will make the tank look unfinished.


To create your dream tank you will need practice. You will not accomplish it on your first few tries. A stunning tank is an uncommon sight because the average turnaround rate in this hobby is five years, no one is established in this hobby in that amount of time. Do not get discouraged; you are not in a fast paced hobby. Keep at it and it will come. Your equipment must be up to par which means a bit more spending than most anticipate but it will be worth it for years to come. Do a lot of research, knowing is achieving. There is an infinite amount of knowledge to be known and unlocked in this hobby. Keep rigorously involved and you will not be bored.
 

XBwlr

Well-Known Member
There are several different routs to go with it and that’s not the topic of this article.


There's that... again. routes
 

PEMfish

Well-Known Member
After not looking at it awhile I went back and made a couple of small changes.

This is what I got;

Aquascaping a Planted Aquarium
By Paul Moreau


Building the system in which you keep your freshwater fish and plants is a science. Little to no skill or talent is required here, just raw knowledge, the more you possess the greater the outcome will be. Good equipment used effectively will be necessary to create a breathtaking display. But what is needed to make the actual display beautiful is an more of an art. It’s a talent you can’t be taught. It can only be learned by practice. You can be shown some things that make the awing displays great, but you must take it upon yourselves to gain the skill required to accomplish a prized display.

Like mentioned before, you need equipment that’s able to sustain the life’s you decide to keep. There are several different routes to go with it and that’s not the topic of this article. For the average hobbyist the tank needs to be at least 18 inches wide, and no more than 24 inches tall. Once you have your equipment in place you will need to do your hard scape. The hard scape is the dry layout consisting of rock, driftwood, and substrate. Your hard scape will need to have a strong visual flow to bring you a pleasing end result. Do not plan to use plants to create flow, instead use the plants to enhance the flow, and never let them contradict it. A complete final plan of what you will be planting before you complete your hard scape will greatly help you. You must also know what you will use for the focal point and where it will go. A red bush like bunch of plants is sometimes used as the focal point because the red contrasts to the green plants around it. A commonly recommended spot involves what is not technically, but often referred to as the perfect number; 1.618. Divide the length of your tank by it and the number you get is how far from a side you should place your focal point. Another common place is on a thirds mark. Notice it is never to be centered. The visual flow should start or end at the focal point as the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it, and the flow will guide their gaze. Without strong flow and focal point there will be no obvious place to look making the tank seem cluttered and stressful. A few large objects should be used over many small ones. Rock and drift wood are the common choices. Be sure that the grain and shape of the wood and the texture pattern of rock align to the flow you are trying to create.

Driftwood in itself holds many options. The kind seen in most local fish stores is common north American. It is usually the most economical. It varies widely in size and shape. There are many other types with more prestige. Mopani, Savanna root, Malaysian, bogwood, and cork bark to name some. Mopani has a twisted look, it as well as Savanna root it comes from Africa. Savanna root has a long slender shape often with many branches. Malaysian normally has a full shape with many points. Bog wood commonly comes from the southern US and can vary widely in appearance but usually has a chunky look. Cork bark will float if not anchored and is rarely used for anything other than hiding equipment. When purchased, driftwood is dry; containing no water. In this state is less dense than water causing it to float. In order to use in a display you must weigh it down in a bucket of water until it becomes water logged enough to sink on its own. This may take several weeks. During this time tannic acid that the wood naturally contains will leach out. It will color the water a deep brown, it is best to let this happen before adding it to your display. If you collect your own driftwood you should boil it to rid it of any foreign organisms that may be living in the wood. The boiling will also speed up the leaching of the tannic acid.

The profile of you aquascpe can have an impact far more powerful than commonly realized. The most common profile shape seen in great tanks is a V shape. A slanted one may also be used, or for tanks with a more cube like shape a solid profile shape all across with only the sides absent can be used. The profile should fallow and enhance the flow. The revealed background should be solid color as to not draw attention, distracting from the display. White and blue are seen but nothing is used more than black. White creates a sense of continuance. The human mind is curios, this color will add interest. Blue can be distracting if the right shade is not chosen. Most steer away from this color. Black makes the colors pop and absorbs most light shifting attention to the plants. The edge of the profile should be a clean line, not a layer of transparent plants.

The foreground can reveal the substrate, or hide it- preferring to use the plants as a strong point, not the lines. Due to the fact that most foregrounds are only a small section of the tank a plant that follows the scale should be used. One with many small leaves and no predominant stems is best. The boundaries should vary wile complimenting the scheme of the tank giving it a natural look. It should flow into the mid ground while contrasting to it in color and texture.

The focal point and majority content is held in the mid ground of most aquascapes. Here groups of plants are grown and hard objects are placed. The colors come alive and contrast is at its peak. With colors and textures all around the chance to create strong contrast which will show off the beauty of your plants is great. Since most Focal points are held in this layer the dominant areas of flow bring the viewers eye here. Use that to make the display breath taking. Large clumps of plants are better than small ones. Not only does that keep the look of the display simple enough to channel attention to the strong points but it keeps the viewer from being able to see through the clumps of species- making the plants seem healthier and thus giving the overall look of the display a better appeal.

Usually blending smoothly into the mid ground the background is a less extraordinary layer. It rarely holds interest and is often there just to complement the grand scheme of the aquasape. A single species is often chosen, a stemmed plant or val works well.

Plant choice is the factor that will in the end, make your display a wonder or a wreck. Try to find plants for your needs, instead of trying to work in a species that you adore. Be sure your equipment can support every choice and the species will fit well in its designated space. It should contrast to those around it and grow into a dense bush like patch. Large leaf and red plants should be used sparingly as they draw attention to themselves and can take away from the scheme of the aquascape. Be sure they will take to the height you need them to as large steps in height between plants will make the tank look unfinished.


To create your dream tank you will need practice. You will not accomplish it on your first few tries. A stunning tank is an uncommon sight because the average turnaround rate in this hobby is five years, no one is established in this hobby in that amount of time. Do not get discouraged; you are not in a fast paced hobby. Keep at it and it will come. Your equipment must be up to par which means a bit more spending than most anticipate but it will be worth it for years to come. Do a lot of research, knowing is achieving. There is an infinite amount of knowledge to be known and unlocked in this hobby. Keep rigorously involved and you will not be bored.
 
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