Need Zoa Help!

Uslanja

Active Member
Hello All! We have some zoa's that have a strange milk white colouring on them. The colour will not blow nor wipe off, so I guess the colouration is in the pigment. We find it unsightly and certainly not the colouration that we originally purchased. Anyone have any experience or idea what might be causing this and can we correct it?
Parameters: Temp. - 76, Salinity - 35, Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate - 0, Phosphate - 0, PH - 8.08, Alkalinity - 2.5, Magnesium - 1500, Calcium - 420.
Zoa's have been in our tank for 2 months and we do not see anything bothering them.

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Thanks
Dave & Tracy
 

aaromano

Member
looks like normal variation. Sometimes these variagated patterns show up depending on how low or high your lighting is.
 
IME some Zoas will bleach out with too much light while others thrive on it, my exp is limited but I have had some I've moved to less lit areas due to this and their color came back. Not sure if thats what your zoa is doing just a suggestion, I'm sure someone else will chime in with more exp advice. I had one go completely white which regained its color after putting it in a dimmer area. Though the ones that bleached on me also stayed closed due to the light, which yours do not appear to be doing. Good luck.
 

Uslanja

Active Member
The zoa's are on the bottom of the tank under power compacts. The tank is 25 inches deep. I'm not sure bleaching from too intense a light would be the issue. I have several other colonies much higher and they do not seem to be effected. But, I'm fairly new at this and I could certainly be wrong! Could too much current cause this?

I just fed the tank and everything is eating so these guys are a little curled on the outside edges. I snapped a few photos under blue light tonight anyway and will get more tomorrow evening when their open again. However, one can see that they display white even under blue light.

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Thanks
Dave
 

Uslanja

Active Member
They used to have the most intense green colour under blue light. Now they are a drab brown with the milky white blotching. So disappointing to see them change!
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
What kind of lighting do you have?

Sometimes the highly colored Zoa's have been kept under extremely bright light. If you move the to normal light they can bleach and/or loose those nice colors. This can also occur if the Zoa was moved from dim light to extremely bright light.

Usually they can adjust to all sorts of lighting conditions, but they may bleach or change color, often for the worse.
 

Uslanja

Active Member
Hi everyone! Thanks for taking the time to help us through this! It's comforting to know that folks here are a willing resource.

The lighting is comprised of a corallife power compact 50/50 at 96 watts, 18 watt actinic in the plastic light canopy that came with the tank and finally two Rio lunar blue LED's (20 LED's in total between both fixtures, wattage unknown). The 50/50 light is run for 6 hours per day as daylight, the actinic comes on prior/post as sun up and sun set for 9 hours per day and the lunar blue lights are left on for 24 hours. This lighting scheme has been running for 6 months now. They have been in the same spot for 2 months now (maybe a little more). They used to be a very intense green colour and quite attractive. Now they are a drab brown colour and not attractive at all, especially with the white colouring that is occurring.

What would we look for to determine if this is bleaching? We do not have an an algae problem and would consider increasing the lighting duration if that would help; any ideas?

We feed live phyto sparingly three times daily (10 drops at each feeding). We also feed mysis, brine and cylopeze twice weekly as a general dosing for all the tank critters. (Blood worm is sometimes included in the feeding just to add variety). Once all of the critters appear to have satisfied their hunger we target feed our corals. Our corals clearly respond to the food in the tank water column and to the target feeding.

We are consistent and stay on top of weekly 10% water changes. Our parameters are; Temperature - 76, Salinity - 35, Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate - 0, Ph - 8.08, Alkalinity - 2.5, Phosphate - 0, Calcium 420, Magnesium - 1500.

Our main tank has 2 trumpet lps corals, 1 montiporis, 1 colony of green clove polyps, 6 ricordia florida, 11 striped mushrooms, two zoa colonies, 1 coco worm, 1 - 3 dot damsel, 1 harbour gobie, 2 peppermint shrimp, 1 porcelain crab, many different hermit crabs (to many to count), and to many astria snails to count as well a few margarita snails and several nissarius snails. Our water turn over is 50 X per hour. We also keep a bag of purigen in our overflow box that is monitored and regenerated if required. Other than a slow dusting of algae on the glass that we clean off with a mag float 2 or 3 times per week (There really isn't much algae to actually see, but one can notice it if you look along the inside of the glass, so we give it a quick brushing with a mag float and consider this as part of the filter feeding routine. We suspect that it is actually caused by/or from the phyto and not something that we mind.)

The montiporis is growing and we are using that as an indicator that we have sufficient lighting. We consider our tank to have moderate lighting and moderate flow.

We run 50/50 lighting opposite the display tank on our fuge as well as a filter sock to keep down bubbles and to mechanically remove particulate suspension. The sock is changed every 3'rd day. The fuge has live sand, live rock, cheato, red and blue leg hermits, peppermint shrimp, ghost shrimp, astrea snails, nissarius snails, chitons, asterina stars, bristle worm, barnacles, tunicates, squirts, two mithrax crabs and a watchman gobie.

We are using the fuge live sand and live rock as additional bacterial filtration and the cheato for nutrient export. The cheato is growing and we thin it out every 4 - 5 weeks when it begins to use up most of the fuge water column. Little critters are reproducing and thriving in the cheato that we think are copepods and such.

We have noticed that our damsel hovers in the main tank water column close to the return and appears to be feeding throughout the day. The gobie in the fuge can be seen feeding in the fuge water column. We believe that they are eating the critters that are reproducing in the cheato and take this as an indication that things are doing well.

Sorry for the babbling, but we we're trying to provide a bigger and more detailed picture of how our system is running in the hopes that something may point out what is effecting the zoa's.

Thanks for all your help!
Dave & Tracy
 

BLAKEJOHN

Active Member
It seems you have everything in good order. The only thing I see is that your ALK is at the low end. In the past I have noticed that my Zoas tend to stop growth and dont look so well when the ALK drops into the low range. I shoot for a target range of 3.5-3.66. Here I seem to have the best overall growth and appearence.

I may very well just be an unfortunate color morph from the changing conditions that the colony has been through.
 
Being intense green is usually a sign of high photosensitivity requiring as much light as possible, you may try moving them high in the tank and IME all zoas love moderate to high flow. Just a thought.
 

cbrownfish

Well-Known Member
It is common for zoas to morph in different environments, especially if health declines or improves. Sometimes lighting will even create a different look when intensities, kelvin temperatures or lighting types vary.

I do not see anything unusual in the pictures, but these polyps appear to be Palythoa not Zoanthid species. My feeling is that you are seeing your coral morph and take on different coloration. While you may not like the change, it is pretty common with polyps.
 

Uslanja

Active Member
Hi BLAKEJOHN and bigpapaoffive! Thanks for the info!

We have consistently had low alkalinity and have thought about trying to adjust it, but we're not sure what would be the most effective and safest way to do that. It is something that we are considering; anyone have any experience with a rock solid and safe method?

It's good to learn that strong flow is a positive for these guy's. The flow where they are is fairly strong. We purchased this colony specifically to be placed where we have it, but we could move it up about half way and give that a try. Is it OK to move it to a new and higher position in one move or do we need to move it up slowly? What sort of things would we watch for to determine if the move is good or bad for it? Is it possible that the colour could change back? How long do you think it would take to begin to see a colour change if it was going to happen at all?

Here are a few more photos from today under 50/50 and then actinic.
50/50
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Actinic
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Uslanja

Active Member
Hi BN251! What do you mean by "coloring up"? Could some of the original green colour return?

Dave
 
When I move mine I simply make one move to where I want to try them give them 1 week and see how they respond. If they're closing up and staying that way is usually a sign they're not happy. I always wait atleast a week before I move anything again in the quest for it's best spot. If the color change was due to something negative then theres a good chance for it to come back. Problem there is finding the negative. What ever changes you make to try and sovle the issue just need to be done one at a time with time to respond. My zoas that bleached took more than a month to get color back once under lower lighting. And that color wasn't all the way back at a month so it was definitely a slow process.
 

brett1

New Member
50/50 light is not good enough really 60/40 is ideal,my corals bleeched at 50/50 ,they may be being eaten have a look close or when the light are out.
 

seabass

Member
Your salitity needs to be somewhere around 1.023 to 1.025 when i read your post it says it is 35 does that mean 1.035.
 
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