Need help with Algae to determine cuc needed

[Susanedw]

I want to be sure I'm adding the appropriate cuc's to deal with what I've got. Tank is 1 mo old, cycled and all numbers have been in acceptable ranges: no amon, no nitrites, nitrates 5-10, no phos. Alk tends to be low. I do weekly water changes of approx 10 %. Tank is a AIO RSM c250 (I think my thread for tank build is listed in sig).

I currently have
4 trochus, 2 bees, 2 ceriths, 3 nassarius and 4 hermits. I'm planning to add to my cuc this next weekend and maybe a tang to deal with the algae. and maybe even add some macro algae in the tank until I get a refugium set up. Algae on the corals pretty much came with them.

So what do you recommend. Do I have basically hair algae? All algae has bubbles by end of day. Morning none. algae on frag

 

[DaveK]

What you seem to have an outbreak of cyano. Possible some diatoms are in the mix too. This is not at all unusual for a new tank. For now, it's just going to need to run it's course, and with proper management, it will go away. What ever you do, never use any of those chemical algae control products. While they will kill some algaes, unless you fix the basic problems, another problem algae will replace the one wiped out.

Since nothing will eat it, the correct required additions to your clean up crew is none, although some additional snails and hermits are not going to hurt. You can increase this clean up crew little by little as needed. Just because nothing really eats this algae, doesn't mean you won't get another algae the CUC will eat.

As for getting a tang. Your system is far too small to house a tang. Most all the tangs being sold require a tank size of about 100 - 200 gal. An RSM 250 is about 66 gal. Do yourself a favor and don't get a tang.

On the bumble snails. This snail is a carnivore and may eat other snails if they can't find enough to eat. I don't recommend adding any more.

I've posted this before, but it's worth repeating. Generally you will need to employ many of these methods for long term algae control.

DaveK's Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control

Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.

Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -

Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.
Livestock load on the system

Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -

Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.

Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae well use many of the above methods.

There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.

Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.
Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.

 

[Susanedw]

Thanks @DaveK I don't plan on using the chemicals and know the tank is going through its process. I also don't feed flakes and will start rinsing frozen foods. It's a pain as the food sticks to the sieve. If I get a Tang, it will only be until it grows to 4 or 5 inches. My son in law has a 350 tank plus 200 gal sump or I'll return it to the LFS. I'm not planning on any fish over 4-5 inches. 4 preferred. Was thinking one of the yellows or a mimic. Still debating that one. I do know that the tank is too small for an adult tang.

The hermits are finding algae to eat and the Bees have enough waste and excess food for now at least. When I get to the point of not enough algae I'll supplement to save my poor snails... I do have a RODI unit.

Thanks for the algae info. I've been doing just over 10% changes weekly and use Instant Ocean salt. Was afraid to do more water change at a time as it would upset the maturing bacteria growing (good stuff). I've been considering getting another powerhead for the other side of the tank to increase flow. Would have to be sure not too much flow for corals on that side which prefer lower flow. Also need to get my refugium set up. I have a 10 gal tank and baffles. Debating whether to get a 20 gal if the baffles will fit. Will use one tank for a QT.

Will try replacing carbon. Means buying new as I suspect what I got in a bundle with some bio balls and ceramics is not high quality. Currently have what came with the RS tank. Hmm, will have to google what an algae scrubber is.

Lots to research and learn!

 

[DaveK]

Fish that are 4 or 5 inches long will really limit you to the number of fish you can keep. This is ok, as long as you don't over crowd.

Your tank holds about 66 gal of water, by the time you deduct for rock and sand, you have about 50 gal gal of actual water. Typically for a SW tank you need about 5 gal of water for each inch of fish, so that 4 inch fish needs about 20 gal of water to support it. For the total tank, maybe you could go with three 4 inch fish, but that would be pushing things, and you have no room for growth.

You'll be fine as long as you don't over do it, but consider choosing much smaller fish. You'll be able to keep more.

 

[Susanedw]

@DaveK good points. Most fish I've got on my list are 3 or under as I want variety and diversity at all levels of the tank.