Nano 28G or? for beginner

Rcpilot

Has been struck by the ban stick
DSB = Deep Sand Bed

The DSB is typically 6" deep or MORE. 6" is the MINIMUM. There is no maximum.

The DSB is where nitrate reduction happens.

A quick lesson in bacterial filtation:
AEROBIC bacteria live on the top of the sand bed and on the surface of rocks. They require oxygen. Just like most other organisms on this planet. They break down waste into Ammonia. Then they break the ammonia down into NITRITES. They they break the nitrites down into NITRATES. But that is as far as they can go. They cannot process the NITRATES down into nitrogen gas.

This is where the DSB comes into play. Starting at about 2" deep, oxygen levels are beginning to get depleted. The AEROBIC bacteria on the surface and first 1.5" of sand are using the available oxygen to eat and reduce ammonia and nitrites. But after an inch or two--most of the available oxygen has been used up. This is where the sand bed starts to become ANOXIC -- no oxygen.

A totally different type of bacteria can grow and live down deep in the sand. They actually DIE in oxygen. They require no oxygen at all to live and grow. These are the ANAEROBIC bacteria.

Okay, so our AEROBIC bacteria live up on the surface and get plenty of oxygen. They break poop and waste down into Ammonia, then nitrites, and finally nitrates.

The final breakdown would be to break the NITRATES down into harmless nitrogen gas. The nitrogen gas can bubble out at the surface of the water. It's called gas exchange. This is how your tank gets rid of excess co2 and brings in fresh o2. Water movement on the surface is how good gas exchange is achieved

The ANAEROBIC bacteria that grow down in the bottom of the sand bed (no oxygen) will eat the nitrates. :thumbup: They break the nitrates down into nitrogen gas. The nitrogen gas is harmless and will work it's way out of the sand bed. It will rise to the surface and gas out into the room. It's harmless to people too.

Thats total DENITRIFICATION. 0 nitrates!! :thumbup: :clink:

Cheatomorpha and other macroalgae will also absorb nitrates. Plants (algea, cheato, culurpa, mangrove trees) just happen to rely on nitrates for food. You just toss a hunk of cheato in your sump and let it grow. As it grows, it will absorb nitrates AND phosphates.

A good DSB combined with cheato or other macroalgae will most likely handle all your nitrate problems.

Remember, some of our corals have zooanthelle algae in their bodies. Algae is a plant. Plants can use nitrates as a food source. It's okay to have 1ppm or 2ppm of nitrates in most tanks without SPS or anemones. The zoas and polyps will absorb the nitrates for food. But I'd just shoot for 0 nitrates if I was you. The corals will get enough food.
 

nano

New Member
After a lot of reading and investigation I think i'm going to pursue a 20L tank with a AquaFuge2 PS Small refugium. I'll add a Hydor Koralia 1 pump on each end for circulation and SunDial T5 HO 4X24W for lighting.

WebAquatics has a promotional pricing discount for lighting - I've ordered lights and pumps from them.

No fish for this tank - live rock and corals only, possibly a hermit crab after the tank has a chance to get its footing.


BOOKS BOOKS BOOKS and time to read them are definitely the advantage for getting started. If I hadn't waited to read the Calfo/Fenner book on Reef Invertebrates and Borneman's Corals book i'd be making huge mistakes. I'm sure i'll be making mistakes but between those two books i've completely changed my plans to fit within the confines of what I can do and what is possible with a 20L tank.
 

kapu

New Member
Longtime lurker here. I have a lot of experience with FOWLR setups, and have dabbled in reef tanks, but never really optimized my setup for one. I think there is much wisdom in what Rcpilot says, but why not look for easy and inexpensive ways to modify the nano system to make it more stable?

The main appeal of the nano is the small footprint and the tidy, streamlined, modern appearance. A healthy nano looks great, and can go in places that a 55gal cannot. I also think the small format is terrific for invert only tanks. You can showcase beautiful, smaller features and creatures that would go unnoticed in a bigger tank with lots of fish. Relatively low stocking cost is also an attraction. I think the thing that grates on many experienced aquarists is the notion that nano tanks are somehow easer. They aren't. Marketing phrases like "plug and play" are very misleading. Any setup needs to be matched to the application, and there is no getting around the fact that keeping hard corals is very challenging. Just because the manufacturer says that the lighting and water quality control options are adequate doesn't make it so. Also, don't be naive and think that everything will work out of the box. You are bound to want to upgrade in time.

I'm planning a nano reef tank because I have a spot for one that would make the room, and I am interested in showcasing small critters. I am very concerned about stability issues (chemical and thermal) in a small tank. My solution is going to be adding a 15 gallon sump to my (probably) 28 gallon nano. All you need is rudimentary plumbing skills and a big enough base cabinet. I'm not sure why it is considered heretical to put a sump on a nano. You can still get that sleek, enclosed look. Drilling and piping the plastic back of a nano cube doesn't intimidate me, and I don't think you will be able to tell the difference from the front. That will give me more chemical/thermal inertia that comes with water volume and plenty of room for treatment options where they really belong - outside the main tank.
 

nano

New Member
Longtime lurker here. I have a lot of experience with FOWLR setups, and have dabbled in reef tanks, but never really optimized my setup for one. I think there is much wisdom in what Rcpilot says, but why not look for easy and inexpensive ways to modify the nano system to make it more stable?
fwiw, I wound up going with a 29 gallon 30x12x18 tank. The wider front was appealing to me so that I could have the means for a happy fish. I think the nano cube would have been better for overall appearance since it takes less rock to cover the sandbed. My rectangular tank looks sort of barren since there's mostly open space. But I went into this prepared for the water chemistry to fail and every day that goes by that it looks better and improves is a bonus.

One thing I think was most advantageous about the tank I got was the simplicity of adding the Aquafuge refugium (hang on tank type). The protein skimmer on the refugium sucks out lots of nasty stuff - seeing how much stuff comes out i'm convinced the skimmer is an essential item for any tank... this could be done to retrofit a nano cube with a skimmer but it was painless with the rectangular tank.


anyway - it's all fun. The next tank will probably be a little nano cube.
 
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