my poor clowns..
- Thread starter CREEPIN
- Start date
some one please help me!!
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums.../23584-fish-quarantine-process-step-step.html
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/23132-marine-ich-myths-facts.html
Read the above links thoroughly.
The fish should be removed to a QT and treated. I suggest that other fish in the same tank be removed and treated also leaving the main display fallow (fish free) for 8 weeks.
I recently did this and it worked fantastic. My display and all of my fish are completely ICH free.
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/23132-marine-ich-myths-facts.html
Read the above links thoroughly.
The fish should be removed to a QT and treated. I suggest that other fish in the same tank be removed and treated also leaving the main display fallow (fish free) for 8 weeks.
I recently did this and it worked fantastic. My display and all of my fish are completely ICH free.
Jeremy0322
Active Member
I have heard really good things about Hyposalinity, but I have also heard that you need a really good refractometer and a few weeks time. No experience with either though, So far the only fish problem I have had is HLLE that came with my yellow tang(Knock on wood)
Read both of these links to get a perspective on what each treatment is like:
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...ents/23130-copper-treatment-use-problems.html
and
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...nts/23131-hyposalinity-treatment-process.html
Hyposalinity is easiest on the fish, but the hardest and longest for the hobbyist. Copper treatment is harder on the fish and easiest for the hobbyist. Each requires the proper equipment and to perform the treatment in a quarantine or hospital tank. You need a refractometer to perform hyposalinity properly, and you need a copper test kit and a copper medication to perform the other treatment. If you read the above link on copper, you'll find out the best copper treatment is a product called Cupramine. You then need to obtain a test kit that reads the copper for that medication. In case you choose Cupramine, then you will want to obtain a Salifert or Seachem Copper Test Kit. Salifert is more easily read, so most hobbyists claim.
After a copper OR a hyposalinity treatment, the fish should remain in quarantine for an additional 4 weeks to verify the fish has been cured.
I'm not seeing your fish (photos) so I trust you've made a proper diagnosis. However, if you are sure of the diagnosis, then you should proceed to one of those treatments as soon as possible.
Good luck!
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...ents/23130-copper-treatment-use-problems.html
and
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...nts/23131-hyposalinity-treatment-process.html
Hyposalinity is easiest on the fish, but the hardest and longest for the hobbyist. Copper treatment is harder on the fish and easiest for the hobbyist. Each requires the proper equipment and to perform the treatment in a quarantine or hospital tank. You need a refractometer to perform hyposalinity properly, and you need a copper test kit and a copper medication to perform the other treatment. If you read the above link on copper, you'll find out the best copper treatment is a product called Cupramine. You then need to obtain a test kit that reads the copper for that medication. In case you choose Cupramine, then you will want to obtain a Salifert or Seachem Copper Test Kit. Salifert is more easily read, so most hobbyists claim.
After a copper OR a hyposalinity treatment, the fish should remain in quarantine for an additional 4 weeks to verify the fish has been cured.
I'm not seeing your fish (photos) so I trust you've made a proper diagnosis. However, if you are sure of the diagnosis, then you should proceed to one of those treatments as soon as possible.
Good luck!