looking for idea's for a canister mod

[SiNiStEr NaTiOn]

This is still being planned. I was wondering if there can be a mod made for the intake side of the canister, like using a internal overflow with PVC in a U shape. with the down tube be about 1 to 2 times bigger in diameter than the intake tubing that goes to the canister and then at the bottom of the U be size smaller then the side that is connected to the tubing that goes to the canister be the same size of that tube. the purpose of the oversize to smaller diameter to maintain the water pressure, and hopefully not make the propeller work as hard on the pulling of the water.

I had made something like for a cascade 300 PF, and there is a significant increase on the output side of the power filter, where the artificial plant in the tank before wasn't moving but now you can see small movement in them, and I notice a change in the fish swim behavior where they are swimming around and playing allot more than they had ever done.

I like to use this concept on a canister, if i can achieve a more optimum output result.

Now on the output side I want to build a spray bar, but i don't know which is better run it the length of the tank or along both sides of the tank. By using a spray bar I like to inject more O2 into the tank, so there wouldn't be a need for a air pump for this FW. The bar would shoot across the surface and probable a 45 degree downward angle into the tank.

The next part not sure if it would be a good idea or not is the flexibal hose. Instead of using it to run the length from tank to canister, would PVC be more suited with barb end for the flexible hose to attach to the canister. because the internal overflow, and s[pray bar can be one piece with it's pipe for either the intake or exhaust.

all input on this will be welcome good or bad.

 

[SiNiStEr NaTiOn]

I guess no one has any idea's for a DIY mod for a canister. or if my idea could be duable especially the spray bar. with the spray bar not sure on the diameter to use, like the same size as the output hose or go bigger if so how much. then drilling the bar what size to drill the holes, with the holes just go 90 degree and have the water spray across the top of the tank surface or use a combination of going across the surface and pointing down into the tank at an angle. Then what's a good way of mounting the bar in the tank at water line?

 

[DaveK]

Well, if we are talking about reef systems, and you got lots of money, the best course of action is to replace the canister with an overflow and sump.

This is not always practical.

With canister filters, you tend to have the canister head made to a design similar to powerheads. In other words, they are made to deliver the most flow at a pressure just enough to do the job.

Canisters form sort of a closed loop in your system. You really can't add anything like an overflow to one, and it sets you up for a failure if the overflow stops working. Unless you built a huge overflow, the overflow can't contain enough water to fill the tank to the point where the overflow starts to work. The canister will drain the overflow, and little additional waht will flow into it. Note how much live water you have in a system when you stop the return pump on a sump based system.

What you can do is to use larger hoses and fittings on the intake and return lines. This will help somewhat. I would also recommend that you don't use a spray bar, but build something similar to the returns you normally see on reef systems.

Keep in mind that the job of the main filtration system is to filter water, and circulation is a secondary goal. Generally you'll need some additional pumps to get the flow you need in a reef.

 

[SiNiStEr NaTiOn]

this isn't for my future reef tank it will have a sump/fuge. this is for my fw tank.

 

[DaveK]

OK, since you posted on a reef forum, I kind of assumed it was for a reef system.

Canisters are actually the filter of choice on FW systems, especially if it's going to be a planted tank.

On FW tanks you can use a spray bar. On my 90 gal planted tank, I mount mine with the holes going straight down, since I don't want to loose CO2. I also use a small powerhead for additional circulation. However, in your tank try the spray par in various positions, and see what works best.

BTW, rather than a spray bar, some people prefer lily pipes for the return, because they don't have the "water jets" a spray bay does. Here is an example that you can look at to see the design (offsite) - ADA Lily Pipes

Use that only as an example of what lily pipes look like. The products shown are made by ADA and while noted for being excellent products, they are out of sight expensive. They are also made of glass, so that means they can easily be broken. People that use them want the filtration system to be as hidden as possible. If you want to get one, look around for a knock off.

 

[GlassMunky]

or i'll make one for you for wayyyy les than $80.....wow those are expensive for just a piece of tubing bent into a "U"

 

[DaveK]

or i'll make one for you for wayyyy les than $80.....wow those are expensive for just a piece of tubing bent into a "U"

Look at the close ups of the designs. The intakes are cut with slits, not unlike a plastic intake might be. The outputs have the flair on the end. Both are made of glass, not plastic. They are a bit more than 'just a piece of tubing bent into a "U"'

Yes, they are extremely expensive, which I why I don't use them.

 

[SiNiStEr NaTiOn]

lily pipes both intake and exhaust do look good, and i have to agree with you DaveK, the price is bit high for glass tubes. but it did got me thinking that since i don't know crap about working with glass, that probably make something like that with PVC. but to get the bends in the pipe I would need a heat source, so when the time comes check around and see if anyone that I know has a heat gun, that i could borrow.

I should of made the title of this a FW DIY for a canister mod