LedGroupBuy Lumia 5.1 Build - Let there be light!

Hello all! Thought I’d kick off my DIY dense matrix LED build (knock off Kessil). It’s going to be built around a LedGroupBuy Lumia 5.1 chip, Reef version of course. See link below for info on that chip:

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/lumia-5-1-100w-full-spectrum-5-channel-led/

Reefbuilders info on this LED: http://reefbuilders.com/2013/05/27/100w-lumia-51-multichip-led-diy-masses/

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Optics will be a 50-80 degree adjustable unit from LGB as well. It’s priced well and similar to what you’d find on eBay:

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/lumia-5-1-optic-lens/

I will be placing this over a shallow cube build in the next few months. Tank depth is only 11 inches so PPFD (PAR) is not as important as single point light source and spectral control/quality.

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I’ll be mounting this LED chip to a Xoide NoFan CR-95C CPU heat sink. It looks really cool and the additional thermal capacity should help keep the LED safe:

http://www.xoxide.com/nofancr-95cicepipefanlesscpucooler-copper.html

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There will be additional cooling for the heat sink via a Noctua NF-P14. It’s near silent and will likely run full speed since controlling it would be extra work that’s not required:

http://noctua.at/main.php?show=nf_p14_blade_design&lng=en

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As recommended by LGB I’ll be driving each channel with Meanwell LDD-700H PCB mounted drivers using a Coralux driver board (LDD 6-up). See link below for info.

http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=ldd-6-driver-board

System power will be from a 250W 48V, 5.2A DC power supply purchased from LGB for convenience:

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/250w-48v-5-2a-dc-power-supply/

I’m still toying around with my control scheme for this. Contenders are PWM to 0-10V conversion and control via this:

http://shop.stevesleds.com/Aquarium-Controller-Interface-Harness-for-Steves-LEDs-Drivers-harness.htm

The hope would be I can feed the 0-10V from my PLC system for control.

Or, fitting a custom programmed Jarduino controller with LCD etc… See link for info:

https://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/

I’m hesitant to go Arduino due to a lack of knowledge of programming the devices. They are incredibly simple hardware but the programming; well I have better things to do.

Heat sink temperature will be monitored by my PLC control system via PT100 RTD with a fail-safe thermal cut out switch that cuts out at 70C. This seems to be the highest temperature the manufacture of the chip recommends. If I get this photon cannon that hot with that heat sink/fan combo I’ll be shocked!

The RTDs are from a source on eBay and were originally purchased for monitoring water temperatures. They have a full Teflon tubing “jacket”. This was easily stripped to expose the metal RTD body.

Before:

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After:

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Note: all thermally important devices are being epoxied to the heat sink with a 2 part thermally conductive epoxy from Artic Silver.

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That should cover the what. Now the why lol! I want to try varying spectrums and intensities throughout the day and gauge the impact on corals I keep. There are some newer LED panels that are really close to this but price and not being a single point design is a big “con” to me. I feel certain that a company like Kessil will eventually build a unit with this level of control. I’d buy one in a second!

So far I have the LED adhered to the heat sink and mounted the optics housing an hour later. Note: The optic housing has 4 little "nubs" on the back that are supposed to mesh in the LED plastic surround, they do not mesh well so I trimmed the nubs off and placed my RTV on this plastic surround. The housing rests flat and does not rock back and forth like before the modification. Should be a very secure adhesion once it sets.

The fan is secured via zip ties for easy removal if needed and I’m on hold for the Meanwell drivers and thermal cut out switch. I have expandable mesh cable sleeve for cable management and am still researching a housing design that will look good and be easy to fit.



I’ll update as the project progresses. :wave:
 
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Pretty sure it'll be a few weeks before first light now. Just found out my idea for a PLC reef controller project is not going to happen. My LCD HMI panel got damaged somehow in storage. It was a 15" C-More LCD from Automation Direct (sadly very pricey to replace). The LCD was critical as it bridges the PLC to the internet and makes the whole thing work so to speak.

So.... this LED build will be driven by 0-10V from my Apex to PWM via Steve's LEDs conversion board. Oh well... it'll still work fine just need to get creative in the Apex programming.

Also won't be able to use any RTDs for LED thermal management. The Apex seems to use a thermistor that maxes out at 120F (according to internet sources). So I'll feed the thermal cutoff switch to an input on one of my Apex aux breakouts. Maybe I should get a lower temperature switch as well to trigger dimming from the Apex around 50C? Hmm.... something else to wait for from China post lol.

More to come! :wave:
 
11/02 Update:

Just got this little guy in the mail. Pretty slick for the money, about $35 from eBay and has a .01Lux resolution. My Apogee MQ-200 is useless at low light levels hence this purchase.

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I'll use it to get a better idea how much my moonlights are putting out. These meters are ill suited for aquarium use but being aware of there limitations maybe I can still gleam some useful data. The photo-diode used seems most sensitive around a 550-570nm peak. It dives pretty fast on either side of that. Still ought to be a good indicator of when I get near 1Lux or less, beats eyeballing it.

More parts/materials on order today so no pictures to share as of yet. :wave:
 
11/08 Update:

Finished soldering the Meanwell LDD drivers to the Coralux driver carrier board. I'll have (1) spare LDD or maybe use it to drive my "halo" moon light:

The PCB is very well made, I cleaned up the solder pads a bit with some iso-alch and swabs.

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Solder job is okay. Not the best due to having to compromise due to poor solder choices. Only had some really thick stuff, not the best choice for delicate jobs :)

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Also, sourced some cheap aluminum scrap off ebay for a housing and 2 end caps. The plate is .75" thick and will be machined to fit inside the tube and will have multi-pin connections for PWM signals etc...

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Always wear the PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) kids... Safety First! :shades:

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My jigsaw blade is lacking on this plate, too much tooth welding from a lack of chip clearing.

Here's my experimental "halo" moon light. Not sure it'll work in application but it looks cool and fits the overall theme of the LED pendant.

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More to come when I get time. :wave:
 
This is looking great! Can't wait to see an update

Thanks for the interest! I'm a little backlogged with the Holidays and projects of course. I'm sure we all are right now! lol.

I'll get to spend some time on this in January-February and wrap this up into testing phase atleast. I found some really dirt cheap PAR 20 LED bulbs on Aliexpress and have been testing those out. Those lil PAR20s look really cool in these:

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The PAR numbers are pretty good as well. I need to realign my spectrometer to check the spectral quality out. I'll hopefully include that info in my CadLights 8G build. Too many projects....too little time! :wave:
 
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