LED/T5 Hybrid...

TylerHaworth

Active Member
I wish I could get crackin here, haha, I'd abandon all other projects right now if I could get away with it... Who needs floors and kitchen cabinets anyway!?
 

Doogle

Well-Known Member
Tyler have you seen that guy at RC who took an ATI fixture and put a bunch of LEDs in where one of the bulbs where, I can't find it right now but if you've already seen it I won't bother finding it. It's awesome and has a butt ton of power/par. Fraggin' sweet
 
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StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
I vote for a couple of high noon XP-Gs mixed into the center area .
i think the center of the tank will look unnaturally blue compared to the front and back.
also just a math question, 24 LEDs @2" apart starts your string at the outside edge of the tank, shining out the glass alot.
you could easily start 3" in and narrow the spacing between, or drop a couple to make up for adding a couple 5w XP-Gs.
Just my $2.
Anxious to see progress!
 

reefer gladness

Well-Known Member
FWIW, I have 24 royal blue LED's over a 3ft 56 gallon - about half the size of your tank and I would say 48 royal blues is all the blue you'll likely need. I use 80 degree optics, it's noticably brighter at the sandbed with optics compared to without. I have a ratio of 3:1 using 3-watt royal blues and 5-watt neutral whites. Also have some UV's (420nm) for accent. Everything dimmable of course. Highly advise each color is on it's own separate dimmable driver rather than combining on a single string.

Not looking to start a debate over T5's vs LED's but I think the biggest mistake being made with LED's is thinking cool white is the only choice. Not enough attention is being paid to the spectral output of the various white LED's that are available and coordinating that with the 'color' LED's that are very narrow in spectrum. I'd wager that the exact spectrum of any MH or T5 could be recreated using LED's if that was our goal and we had the testing equipment to do so.
 

TylerHaworth

Active Member
I think I've decided against this, haha... The more I think about it, the more I become afraid of being anything less than 100% satisfied.
 

Doogle

Well-Known Member
You gotta admit a 6x24 t5 ( well 5 after taking out a bulb for leds )fixture with the output of a 400w halide is pretty hardcore !
 

PIMPALA

Well-Known Member
You gotta admit a 6x24 t5 ( well 5 after taking out a bulb for leds )fixture with the output of a 400w halide is pretty hardcore !

400w MH is insane. I've seen 30" tanks that are still getting 350-400 par at the sand.
 

Choff

Well-Known Member

I am getting no where near the par ratings this guy is posting and we have almost identical bulb set ups and using the same par meter. I need to read through the entire thread. They talk a lot about cooling etc having an impact on PAR. I am also assuming the fixture has an impact. He is using an ATI power module vs my RSM rig. Would be disappointing if our set ups end up being that inferior. I am hoping that is not the case and there are other factors.

He is getting 380 at center bottom of his tank and 700 about 6" below. I am getting 280/450 by comparison. I should be higher as he is using 54w to my 80w. The only variance in our bulb set up is I am running a ATI coral+ where he is running an aquablue spec.

ATI Blue+
ATI Blue+
ATI Purple+
GE 6500k
ATI Blue+
ATI Blue+
Aquablue spec.
ATI Blue+
ATI Purple+
ATI Blue+
 

PIMPALA

Well-Known Member
the ATI power module makes ALL the difference in the world. There is absolutely no question about it.
 

Doogle

Well-Known Member
the ATI power module makes ALL the difference in the world. There is absolutely no question about it.

Yup, cool those cold spots on the bulbs ( label end ) and you'll get a increase in PAR. May be hard with an rsm though.
 
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