Jongalt's 150 Build Thread

[Jongalt26]

Hi all, how are things?

I wanted to document my 150 build thread for my records and your reviews. Feel free to make comments and suggestion. Here is a link to my intro should you wish to have a little background.

Tank Type: LPS, Softies and SPS
Current Livestock (to be transferred): Hippo Tang, Tomato Clown, Algae Blenny, Flame Angel, purple lobster, tiger tail sea cucumber.
Frogspawn, green hairy mushrooms (two different types), blue mushrooms, Xenia Poms, a torch, a lord, an acan and a brain.

Status:
3/3/16
Almost all equipment has been purchased, plumbing is complete (except for final bulkhead gluing). Sump interior has been painted (Appliance Epoxy White). Sump fans have been installed. Waiting for pressure testing (will do after the final bulkhead assembly which will occur when I move the system to the final placement). Im wiating for final testing on my rock to aquascape.

To Do:

• Aquascaping
• Final Placement
• Final Plumbing Connections
• Pressure Test & Clean
• Determine how to cycle (and transfer current tank inhabitants)
• Electrical Organization
• Controller & Lights Programming

Display: 150 Gallon Starfire, 60 x 24 x 24 - Center Overflow - Euro Braced (perimeter only) - Herbie Drain
Sump: 68 Gallon - 5 chamber - glass
Base & Canopy: Wood w/ dark cherry finish
Return Pump: Ecotech Vectra M1
Protein Skimmer: Nyos Quantum 160
Heater: Finnex 800 watt
Heater Controller: (Apex)
Lights: (2) Reefbreaders Photon - V2 - 24"
Refugium Light: Beamswork 400 LED
Sump Light: Supernight waterproof flex LED
Reef Controller: Neptune Apex w/ Lab Grade PH
Wavemaker: Maxpect Gyre 150
Gyre Interface (Battery / Apex): Icecap interface module
GFO Reactor: BRS Deluxe (Fed from Manifold)
Carbon Reactor: BRS Deluxe (Fed from manifold)
Chiller: AquaEuro USA Max Chill 1/10
Mechanical Filtration: Homebrew design
Biological Filtration: (1) Marinepure 4" Ceramic Block, 2 quarts of 1 1/2" Spheres
Buffering / Nitrate Control: Remote Deep Sand Bed (Homebrew Cooler Based)
Sand: Caribsea Arag-Alive Hawaiian Black
Rock: Existing live rock (transferred), Pukani, Reefcleaners
Reef Cement: Nyos Reef Cement
Salt: Red Sea Reef
Glass Cleaner: Tunze Care Magnet
Probe Holder: Innovative Marine Aqua Gadget XL
Sump Fan: Ac Infinity Airplate
ATO: Current Tunze 3155 or Kore Doser

I intend on running Kalkwasser initially then supplementing with 2 part or a calc reactor.

Still to purchase:
ATO Container: (Building an Obsession)
Doser: Kore 5th Intelligient
Battery: Icecap Battery Backup
Mulit - Meter: Seneye


...More to come.
Thanks
Jason

 

[nanoreefing4fun]

Cheers for starting a tank thread... be sure to add lots of pics !

 

[Jongalt26]

Here is the prelim layout for the plumbing on the tank. My install differed from this as I found ways to simplify and make the layout cleaner and less cluttered.

Im sure someone is going to look at me funny for the mechanical filtration but here is my thinking:
I couldnt fit the theiling roller mat
I hate filter socks.
I liked the rottertube idea however it wasnt the best solution for my situaiton.

I wanted to maintain a full siphon and have the discharge 2" below the water level in the sump hence the shape.
Currently the mechanical filtration is just friction fit. Prelim testing shows that it works well however I need to do final testing. I may need to drill a hole in the 90 degree elbow above the final discharge. I'll post pictures in a subsequent post.

 

[Jongalt26]

Here are build pictures. I painted the interior of the base with Rustoleums appliance epoxy (after sanding the existing finish and a coat of primer). The first coat was sprayed on however it has to cure for one week before a second coat can be added. This due to the solvent in the spray can will melt the first coat. I didnt want to wait a week and the standard non-spray can of epoxy only has a 24 hour min. recommended time to add a second coat so I just bought and used that.

 

[Jongalt26]

Here are pics of my mechanical filtration set-up. Polyfilter and a sponge will be installed in the discharge pipe with the intent of changing the poly out on a regular basis. I may have to drill an airhole at the top of the 90 degree elbow. I may opt to drill a 1" hole right in the Tee right below the 1" to 2" adapter for emergency overflow if it ends up being a problem. Currently everything is friction fit and will remain the way until testing is done.

 

[Jongalt26]

And here is the 'final' layout. The main components are glued in but I left the bulkheads unglued to make it easier to move the display.
Jason

 

[nanoreefing4fun]

Nice !