Installed my new chiller

[CobrajetMach1]

So I bought a new chiller for my RSM 250 and installed it a couple days ago.
The chiller is a 1/4 HP Oceanic... I know it's a bit big for this tank but I got a really smokin' deal on it. I went with an Eheim compact 3000 for the chiller pump. It barely fits the pump chamber but it's in there and it working good.

I also installed the max cabinet fan kit and I used the accessory kit to run my vinyl tubing.

Every thing is working good but I must say I feel somewhat worried.
What if the supply or return line blew off from the accessory kit connection?
The chiller pump would throw a bunch of water all over the floor...

What are some safety measures that can be taken to prevent such a disaster?

I'm not worried about the tubing connection to the chiller, as it's held on solid by the barbed connector and a hose clamp in a horizontal position.

The accessory connection worries me because it's a vertical connection held by barbs and a lock nut. Here's a picture of it to show you what I mean. The nut is literally on the last thread before tightly gripping the tubing.

 

[tnwillia]

Mine's been running for a year with a much bigger external pump. Everything fails at some point but I thing you don't have to worry about the accssory port connections as long as you check them now and again. I only say that cause with your internal pump you'll have some vibration I don't have. On the nut, if you can as a additional measure put a ty-rap or 2 to further lock the position. If the hose is a good tight fit you could back off the scre head and just lock it on with ty-raps. Have fun!

 

[Max250]

I'd prefer a better fitting nut. I'm not using the accessory port - I've fitted three smaller Eheim Inlet Hooks (two for chiller, one for ATO).

Having the chiller pump (and outlet pipe) higher up in the pump 2 chamber would mean a smaller flood, should it happen.

 

[CobrajetMach1]

Hey would it be ok to shut off the chiller pump when I feed the tank? I mean as long as it isn't actively cooling at the time, wouldn't it be alright to stop the flow for a few minutes so their food doesn't get blasted everywhere and end up in the sump?

 

[tnwillia]

I leave mine on all the time. The chiller is cooling the water that flows thru it. It's your pump that you can turn on/off effecting tour tank flow. Only thing I turn mine off for is water change but I don't think it's going to hurt anything to power off for feeding. Have fun!

 

[CobrajetMach1]

Thanks Tom,

I figured it would be fine as long as it wasn't in the middle of cooling when I shut off the flow. If it does kick on when I'm feeding I'll just turn the pump back on.

I think if you left the pump off and the chiller was in the middle of cooling it could freeze the water in the chiller or something bad like that.

I just didn't want to have to get underneath the cabinet every time I feed the fish and unplug the chiller, then turn the pump off.

Now I just need to figure out how to get the cabinet cooling fan to kick on automatically when the chiller is running so I don't have to listen to it all the time.

 

[goma]

When I do water changes, I turn off my pump to my chiller and leave the chiller on. I've seen no ill effects from this action.

 

[CobrajetMach1]

Cool, good to know it's alright.

Here's a picture of a little safety padding I gave myself with regards to the accessory kit connection. I think it should help keep gravity out of the uh oh factor.

 

[goma]

You could also use a metal hose clamp like the ones that came with the chiller. Good idea though to add something extra for piece of mind.

 

[mitcheva]

I've used a nice strong zip tie around the piping and barb...just a little cheap, simple method for extra security

 

[Hagene]

Cobra,
It looks to me like the female (nut) fitting is cross threaded onto the male fitting and that may be why you can not screw it on for more than one thread. If it were me I would unscrew that connecton and make sure it is not cross threaded when reconnecting. Just my opinion from looking at your photos.

 

[CobrajetMach1]

Yeah it looks cross-threaded but it really isn't.
The nut is already on accessory connector and you push the hose over the barb and then turn the nut so it compresses the tubing between the nuts threads and the barbed end. Looks like that's how it works to me anyways.

It looks cross-threaded because I tightened it really good. Anyways with these zip ties on here it doesn't have a chance to separate from the accessory connection and I feel much better about it now.

 

[imaccat]

Now I just need to figure out how to get the cabinet cooling fan to kick on automatically when the chiller is running so I don't have to listen to it all the time.

I've just bought an automatic switch that has a temperature sensor which will turn on my fan when the temp reaches a certain level. Its like the timer switches you can buy, but works on temp instead. If you get one, make sure it is the type that switch on when it reaches a certain temp as the other type switch off when it reaches the set temp (which are used to turn on heaters)

 

[CobrajetMach1]

Cool, where did you get the switch at?

 

[imaccat]

Cool, where did you get the switch at?

I got it off ebay, but I am in the UK, so that wont help you much, sorry.

 

[CobrajetMach1]

Do you have any stats on it and are you using it on max cabinet ventilation kit fan or a different fan? I looked on my AC adaptor and it says 7.5 VDC, 300 mA. All the temp switches I've seen are for 12VDC.

 

[imaccat]

Do you have any stats on it and are you using it on max cabinet ventilation kit fan or a different fan? I looked on my AC adaptor and it says 7.5 VDC, 300 mA. All the temp switches I've seen are for 12VDC.

I'm using a set of fans that I had on my FOWLR, so not the Max vent kit. The fans are 240v AC with a normal household plug. The thermo switch is one of these

LCD Plug In Cooling Thermostat

Nothing fancy!

 

[CobrajetMach1]

Cool, thanks for the all your info, I went ahead and purchased basically the same thing, minus the 240 volts of course

 

[imaccat]

Cool, thanks for the all your info, I went ahead and purchased basically the same thing, minus the 240 volts of course

No problem, glad I could help :bouncer: