Hospital Tank/Ich Rx

scuba22

Member
Hi everyone-
I have a 55gal reef, with
coral and fish.
My regal Tang developed white spot
(bumps on her sides)...
She is eating well, 'breathing' well etc..
the other tank inhabitants are looking good.

I added a sterilizer and am treating the reef w/
Metrondiazole, but I want to treat the regal separately in a
hospital tank I set up.

Here's the problem: I can't catch her!
she hides in the reef and is very net-saavy.
I have sat immobile for 30 minutes trying to gain her trust.
Nope.

I'm afraid she'll die without specific Rx, but what to do?
Any tricks out there on how 'to catch a fish'?

Thanks,
scuba22
 

Warnberg

Well-Known Member
scuba22, IME Regal tangs are very suseptable to ICH, every regal I have had has gotten ich at some point in time (both of them). They will however become more immune to it as they get older as long as an initial exposure doesn't kill them. The only true way to rid your tank of ich is to treat all the fish in the tank and leave the tank fishless for about 8 weeks. I prefer the hyposalinity treatment for ich. I treated all my fish for ich once and it was tons of work and after a week of all the fish being back in the main display, yeah you guessed it, the regal had spots again. So I decided it is either going to get over it or I was going to loose it. So to date (4 months later) the regal is spot free, this is what I did, I made sure all of the food in the tank was soaked in solcon and garlic extreem. The regal also discovered the cleaner shrimp in the tank, why now I have no idea.

So now you have to make the same choice, do you move all the rock, catch all the fish and treat them in a seperate tank for 8 weeks? or do you live and let live and provide the healthiest tank possible and hope they kick it on there own?

Here are a few links to help you make your desision:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.php

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/marineich.html



Good luck
 

scuba22

Member
Thanks Dave
The thought of dismantleing my very well thought out reef and stressing all my inverts and fish is a baad one.
I am treating the tank, as I can. And since the Regal Tang only shows skin signs and not overall health probs I am going to keep my fingers crossed that we make it thru...
I am not going to try to catch her anymore-just let the tank settle and continue to sterilzer and flagyl.
(In have the temp up to 82 so that I can get all those in troph phase to hatch and be killed!)

what is
solcon and garlic extreem
????
thanks!
 

Warnberg

Well-Known Member
Kent Marine Garlic Xtreme, it's a garlic extract..... and American Marine Selcon Fish Food Booster Additives/Supplements, type of vitamine for the fish.... sorry about the spelling earlier....
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
Metrondiazole will not eliminate Ick if I'm not mistaken that is an antibiotic. There are only 3 proven methods to eliminate Crypto irritans and that's copper, hyposalinity and the transfer method. You should never treat a reef with medication always use a Q tank not only can it affect the nitrifying/denitrifying bacteria but it can have long term effects on inverts.

It's possible that the fish may be able to recover on it's own if the infection isn't severe and then develop immunity but the parameters would have to remain excellent and the fish would have to be in a stress free environment. Dave mentioned a couple of things that can be of great help garlic and Selcon will definitely boost the immune system.
 

scuba22

Member
The LFS reccommended the antibiotics, but indeed I have read the same trinity that you mentioned as the only effective rx.
The fish has a great appetite, and is active despite the bumps.
Even so-you think the Garlic will help her immune system?
(I don't need to stimulate her appetitie)

The other fish look OK. will the sterilizer help?
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
will the sterilizer help?

Yes it will it'll definitely help keep the parasite in check but won't eliminate it. As long as the fish are eating well and you have a well established tank they should recover.
 

Warnberg

Well-Known Member
Let me just say, I know there is ich in my tank... however not a fish in there are showing signs of it, no spots, no scratching... I keep up with regular feedings, soak all food with selcon and garlic, and I have no UV sterilizer...... just an FYI
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
Warnberg said:
Let me just say, I know there is ich in my tank... however not a fish in there are showing signs of it, no spots, no scratching... I keep up with regular feedings, soak all food with selcon and garlic, and I have no UV sterilizer...... just an FYI

Yes I agree Dave I also have a similar situation. IME I have seen the fish recover and I have seen serious infections wipe out my fish population. A UV will definitely help control a serious Ick infestation but like I said it won't eliminate the parasite from the fish that are carrying it.
 

gussy

Member
If all the fishes remaining in the tank becomes immune...will the tank be ich free then in a few months as they won't have as host?
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
gussy said:
If all the fishes remaining in the tank becomes immune...will the tank be ich free then in a few months as they won't have as host?

The only way to be ick free is to remove all the fish and treat them in a QT and leave the tank fallow for a minimum of 4-6 weeks. The fish can carry the parasite and remain immune which is mine and Dave's case.
 

gussy

Member
Okay...if the fish is immune wont the parasite die off. I mean, that's what they mean when they say that ich can't survive immediately in a closed loop system? Or are you saying that as long as there are fishes in the tank it can never be ich free?
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
Or are you saying that as long as there are fishes in the tank it can never be ich free?

No I said the only way to be Ick free is remove all the fish to a QT and treat them and leave the tank fallow or fish free for 4-6 weeks and no more parasite.

if the fish is immune wont the parasite die off

No the fish can carry the parasite with no obvious symptoms of infection or harm.
 

FFMedic

New Member
cheeks69 said:
Metrondiazole will not eliminate Ick if I'm not mistaken that is an antibiotic. There are only 3 proven methods to eliminate Crypto irritans and that's copper, hyposalinity and the transfer method. You should never treat a reef with medication always use a Q tank not only can it affect the nitrifying/denitrifying bacteria but it can have long term effects on inverts.

It's possible that the fish may be able to recover on it's own if the infection isn't severe and then develop immunity but the parameters would have to remain excellent and the fish would have to be in a stress free environment. Dave mentioned a couple of things that can be of great help garlic and Selcon will definitely boost the immune system.

I must respectfully disagree....

Metronidazole (flagyl...Which is indeed an antibiotic when used in us humanoid type organisms)) or any other medication inteneded for this use (having been proven reef safe of course) will kill Cryptocaryon and/or Oodinium Tomites. Since it's impractical for us to dismantle our tanks to catch our fish, we often use these "medications". The key is temperature elevation and hyposalinity. Temperature elevation to speed up the life cycle while the Tomont is embedded in the fishes gills and/or flesh, so that it will come to the end of the cycle and form the cysts (which is what we see) that contain the many tomites. Hyposalinity to encourage the cysts to burst releasing the Tomites. Once the tomites erupt from the cysts and are at the free swimming stage, they can only survive without a host for 1-3 days. However, at the Tomont stage while the parasite is embedded within the flesh and or gills it may live indefinitely...ergo the elevated temp. Since they're not very hardy little critters at this free swimming stage, pretty much any "medication" deemed for this use will kill them. Again that is assuming that the chosen medication has been proven reef safe. And treatment for up to a week after the symptoms disappear to insure total elimination.


We must keep in mind that this is not an infection, virus, or a bacteria..But is a parasite, (an animal)...Therefore the fish cannot develop an immunity. But, aiding in boosting our fishes immune system may help in the prevention of complications secondary to infestation.

I do agree that the best way to combat these vermin would be to place all new fish into a QT prior to introducing them to our tanks. Second best would be to catch our fish and place them in a QT. However, one would have to weigh the benefits of the QT as opposed to treating the tank, in relation to chasing the fish around the tank and stressing them even further than they are already at this point.

We hear many people say that "I got rid of the ich but it returned tenfold about 3-5 weeks later". The simple fact is...They never "got rid of it" to begin with... they did something..i.e., temp, hyposalinity, medication, or a combination thereof, to cause the cysts to burst but never killed the free swimming Tomites, (at least not all of them). So they embedded themselves in the fishes flesh/gills, and a few weeks later they see the cysts all over again when the Tomonts reach the end of their life cycle...Only in larger numbers.

It's my opinion that too many people view this parasite as "Ich" (Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis) which is a freshwater parasite that may go into a dormant stage and become very persistent. Whereas Cryptocaryon and Oodinium will not, and can be easily eradicated from a reef tank inside of 10 days without detrimental effects to the rest of the tanks inhabitants.....JMTCW derived from my experience and research. :turntable
 
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cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
Metronidazole (flagyl...Which is indeed an antibiotic when used in us humanoid type organisms)) or any other medication inteneded for this use (having been proven reef safe of course) will kill Cryptocaryon and/or Oodinium Tomites. Since it's impractical for us to dismantle our tanks to catch our fish, we often use these "medications". The key is temperature elevation and hyposalinity. Temperature elevation to speed up the life cycle while the Tomont is embedded in the fishes gills and/or flesh, so that it will come to the end of the cycle and form the cysts (which is what we see) that contain the many tomites. Hyposalinity to encourage the cysts to burst releasing the Tomites. Once the tomites erupt from the cysts and are at the free swimming stage, they can only survive without a host for 1-3 days. However, at the Tomont stage while the parasite is embedded within the flesh and or gills it may live indefinitely...ergo the elevated temp. Since they're not very hardy little critters at this free swimming stage, pretty much any "medication" deemed for this use will kill them. Again that is assuming that the chosen medication has been proven reef safe. And treatment for up to a week after the symptoms disappear to insure total elimination.

I have done alot of research on Crypto Irritans and I have never read any scientific evidence that any antibiotic will aid in killing the Ick parasite at any stage. If you use hyposalinity you don't have to use any other medication unless the damage done by the parasite is severe and there's secondary bacterial infections, but you CANNOT use this method in your display tank if you have any inverts or LR it MUST be done in a Quarantine tank, no invert will survive for 3 to 4 weeks in the salinity levels necessary to kill the parasite.

We must keep in mind that this is not an infection, virus, or a bacteria..But is a parasite, (an animal)...Therefore the fish cannot develop an immunity. But, aiding in boosting our fishes immune system may help in the prevention of complications secondary to infestation.

Innate Immunity

"Innate immunity refers to the general response to an invading pathogen or parasite regardless of that pathogen or parasite encountered (Dickerson and Clark, 1996). This form of immunity does not rely on previous encounters and includes generalised reactions such as secretion of mucus, but may include specific host cell responses (acquired genetically).

While little formal study has been performed on innate immunity of marine fish to C. irritans, innate immunity of freshwater fish to I. multifiliis, both between and within host species suggests that the former may be possible. Collective anecdotal evidence from marine aquarists lends weight to the idea that some species, such as chaetodontids (butterflyfish) and acanthurids (surgeonfish and tangs) may be more prone to Marine "Ich" infections, whereas other species such as callionymids (dragonets) are not at all. Intraspecific differences in innate immunity would be much harder to detect through random observation.

Acquired Immunity

Acquired immunity occurs when the response is specific to the invading organism, which is recognised directly or through antigens (Dickerson and Clarke, 1996). Colorni (1987) first suggested that marine fish could acquire some immunity to C. irritans by surviving several infections. Burgess and Matthews (1995) demonstrated acquired immunity in the thick-lipped mullet, Chelon labrosus. They found that 82% of fish that had been previously exposed to high levels of theronts were immune to a secondary exposure."

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/marineich.html
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irratans PARTII
Natural Immunity

Fish can develop immunity to Cryptocaryon irritans that can last for up to six months (Colorni, 1987 and Colorni & Burgess, 1997). It is this natural immunity that makes evaluating the effectiveness of various treatment options so difficult.
It is possible that immunity could protect the fish from massive infestation, but still allow small numbers of parasites to remain and reproduce undetected by the aquarist. This is where the 'Ich is always present' argument comes into play and why sometimes an aquarist has recurring difficulties with this pathogen.
Treatment Option 8: 5-Nitroimidazoles

There is another class of products on the market that are alleged to be a reef-safe, alternative, anti-parasitic medication for Cryptocaryon irritans. The active ingredient of this category of treatments is 5-Nitroimidazoles. I have only used this type of product a few times, but never in a reef tank, so I cannot speak to those claims. I found these to be moderately successful against Cryptocaryon, although it required twice as many applications as the manufacturer stated on the instructions to affect a complete cure. My biggest complaint is how expensive it was, in particular accounting for the amount and time needed to affect a full cure. Anyone who wishes to try one of these products should perform a search on several of the online message boards to get additional feedback prior to purchasing. Based on my own experience alone, I cannot recommend them.


http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_metronidazole.html
Metronidazole

BRAND NAME: FLAGYL

AVAILABLE IN
250mg & 500mg
TABLETS

USES OF THIS MEDICATION

Metronidazole is an antibiotic especially effective against anaerobic infections (infections that grow without the presence of oxygen.) In addition, it has anti-inflammatory properties in the large intestine and is a very effective anti-diarrhea medication. It is an effective antibiotic against certain protozoal infections, especially GIARDIA.


http://www.rxlist.com/cgi/generic/metronidaz.htm
DESCRIPTION
, INDICATIONS AND USAGE, DOSAGE AND ADMINISTRATION.

Oral

Metronidazole is an oral synthetic antiprotozoal and antibacterial agent, 1-(beta-hydroxyethyl)-2-methyl-5-nitroimidazole,....

Metronidazole tablets contain 250 mg or 500 mg of metronidazole. Inactive ingredients include cellulose, FD&C Blue No. 2 Lake, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, polyethylene glycol, stearic acid, and titanium dioxide.





With that being said... I have used metronidazole successfully in the past to treat crypto but still prefer the hyposalinity method best.


:D
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
With that being said... I have used metronidazole successfully in the past to treat crypto but still prefer the hyposalinity method best.

I believe I also have used it in the past, I think it was in a powder form which I added to their food about 3 years ago with no sucess. I'm almost certain it was metronidazole.
 

FFMedic

New Member
I too have used this (in it's powder form) added directly to the tank in a high flow area upon the suggestion of a parasitologist...The use of this in post #16 refers to use in humans. I didn't intend to assert that antibiotics in general would aid in this, just that the active and/or inert ingredients found in Metronidazole have been found to be effective for erradicating Cryptocaryon at its' free swimming stage.

3-4 weeks, of hyposalinity would indeed have adverse reactions with some coral. In my experience (2 bouts with Crypto, due to not using a QT), within 2 days after increasing the temperature to 84*, the visible cysts had increased dramatically. On the third day I noticed the cysts errupting (hyposalinity) the fish actually looked dirty (for lack of a better term) with all of the cysts errupting in such a short time. It was at this point I implemented the Metronidazole, on the fourth day there were no signs of the cysts on any of the fish and they all looked healthy and clean but I continued use for an additional 2 days (3 days use of the FLagyl) just to insure all of the Tomites had been erradicated. I kept the salinity at 1.017 and the temp up for one additional day, for one week total Tx. Without any reactions from any of my coral.

I totally agree that hyposalinity and temperature is without a doubt the safest way to go about treating this. However, if one has not or cannot remove the fish from their tank, for whatever reason...Without some means of killing the free swimming Tomites, they will attach themselves to a host and your back to square one.

It was not my intention to suggest that use of this (or any outside influences) would be a safe route to travel...for some it may not be, for any number of reasons. We each must be responsible enough to research what is best for our tanks based on our inhabitants, and not rely solely on what has worked for someone else.

I was under the impression that it would be impractical for this person to remove his livestock. So I was just merely offering my experience and what worked for me within my tank in that situation. This has been about seven months ago, so I'm only assuming there are no long term effects.

I have since set up and keep a QT as it is truly the ounce of prevention that is worth (in my case) 120g of cure!

I do appologize if I ruffled anyones feathers. :)
 

FFMedic

New Member
Witfull said:
no appolgies needed. healty exchange of thoughts ideas and facts is how everyone learns.

Agreed...When we can't/won't learn anything else about this hobby....It's time to quit. I didn't intend to come across as the new guy spouting off. Which after re-reading my post, is what it sounded like to me. :willis:

Great site by the way... There's obviously alot of knowledge and experience here. :)
 
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