Handling a Marine Ich Outbreak

[Rcpilot]

Re: Copper - Treatment, Use, Problems

Can I successfully treat MI in a QT tank using only hyposalinity as my course of treatment?

Unfortunately, I only have a 5.5g tank to QT 4 fish. I know it's not ideal. I have installed eggcrate baffles in the tank and divided it into 4 different sections. My hope is that each fish will have it's own space. Two of them are mortal enemies in the DT, so I think it is a good idea to keep them separated in the QT. This only gives each fish about 4" to swim around in.

I have
1- 6 line wrasse about 2" long
1- diamond watchman goby about 3" long
1- occelarous clown about 1.5" long
1- flame angel about 2.25" long

The flame was purchased and introduced into the DT without QT. I am paying for it now. The flame has Ich and I am starting to see a few small spots on the clown. I can only assume the diamond watchman goby and wrasse will become infected too.

I have a huge problem here. You recommend NOT putting multiple fish into the QT at the same time. I don't have much choice here. That is why I divided the tank into a separate section for each fish--to try and reduce stress and competition for food.

The goby and wrasse show no obvious signs of Ich. I am positive they have been exposed to the Ich in the DT. Am I correct in assuming the goby and wrasse will get Ich from the bloom in the QT tank? I hate to "make them sick" when they show no signs of the parasite, but we all know that we only see one of several cycles in this parasite. Just because these 2 fish do not shows outward signs--doesn't mean they aren't sick or about to get sick.

Common sense tells me to just put them into QT with the other fish and deal with the outbreak from the initial bloom in the QT tank.

Questions:
How long do I keep the fish in QT under hyposalinity conditions?
How often do I change water and replenish with fresh saltwater?
Can I do this in just one QT tank as I've described?

I have no biological filter setup. This is an emergency QT and I don't have the time to wait 4-6 weeks to seed a sponge.
Can I just put the fish into QT and change water to control toxins (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate)? I realize that will most likely mean water changes every other day.

Sorry to blast ya with so many questions. I've never had to deal with this before and I really don't know quite HOW to deal with it.

I know that I will need to leave the fish in QT for about 8 weeks. I actually had planned on 10 weeks to make positively sure all the Ich was dead in the DT.

 

[leebca]

I moved your post to its own thread, since the questions were quite a bit varied from the original copper thread.

My recommendation for putting one fish through quarantine at a time was for the quarantine of fish. This recommendation does not have to be followed when curring a group of fish of one disease or condition. It would be better to have them separate, but it isn't necessary. The possible complication is if the fish have multiple problems and during treatment of one condition/disease, they are now exposed to other diseases.

That is a very small space for those fish for that length of time. I'd recommend getting to a K Mart or ? and pick up a 15 gallon 'special' to spread out the fish. You can sell it later or use it for other quarantine efforts.

To get to your questions. . .

Hyposalinity does treat Marine Ich successfully. It is the easiest on the fish but the most demanding on the hobbyist. There is a sticky on that procedure.

A fish may not display having Marine Ich to the human observer, but quite often the fish does have the infection in the gills or even on the body. The only single stage visible to the unaided human eye is when the white 'pimple' shows up. That can come and go in hours or a couple of days and the hobbyist can totally miss it on the body (and in the gills). Thus, always treat the whole group for Marine Ich, whether they display or not.

If the fish are not currently displaying and you put them through hyposalinity, they most likely will not display. Although the QT process is supposed to bloom the pathogen, remember you are in hyposaline and that will prevent the pathogen bloom. That is, you are treating the disease and not in a true QT process.

Some of your hyposalinity questions are answered here: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/saltwater-fish/23131-hyposalinity-treatment-process.html

See above for my opinion on tank size.

Water changes every other day? That might be optimistic. :bugout: You may be making water changes once or twice a day to keep up with wastes. However, water changes is one way to keep up with this. Another is the use of chemical filters that remove ammonia and nitrites. Please be sure to test the water for ammonia and nitrites at least twice a day.

If you have any additional questions, please don't hesitate to post! Good luck!

 

[Rcpilot]

Thank you VERY much.

I found a used 30g on craigslist. I got it free. It is severely scratched and would never make a good DT anyway. Perfect QT tank. I just need to clean it out. I plan to use a baking soda slurry and warm water. I'll scrub it with a new sponge and rinse heavily.

Should be ready to QT these fish by the end of the day.