Hair algae ARGH! (long post)

Curtswearing

Active Member
Cougra,

I'm sorry you have had to deal with this. I have read all of the advice on this thread and I know you are going to beat this.

AWESOME RESPONSES EVERYONE------You guys are the greatest!!!

The advice on the thread above is going to solve your problem. Don't freak out about the length of my post. I'm in a typing mood.

I want to talk about a couple of things here. I know everyone reading this thread knows that I don't like to provide links to other places for background info but I "forced" myself to put up a couple of links. They are Phosphates:Algae's best friend and Nitrate in the reef aquarium. The algae is growing because there is food for it. The phosphates that have acccumulated over time are food for it and so are the nitrates.

A Turkey Baster costs very little. However, in reality, they are priceless!!! Get that detritus off your LR and into the water column so your skimmer can grab it or you can remove it with a waterchange.

I like a lot of the info on this thread. I think that taking the LR out of your tank and putting it in a bucket is a good idea. I would recommend that you do a waterchange but keep the old water in a separate bucket. Manually remove the hair algae and then rinse off the rocks with the old water.

Then, as soon as you have RO/DI water, make some saltwater with it and put your rock in the bucket with the brand new saltwater, a heater, and a powerhead. You won't believe the stuff that is going to come out of that rock. The bacterial action will spit a lot of detritus off of the surface of the rock but it will also come out of the pores of the rock. They call water the "universal solvent" which can be a good thing or it can be a bad thing. Since you are now using pure water (RO/DI water), you can use this characteristic to your advantage. By putting the rock into a separate bucket with pure water, it will act as a magnet and "clean" out the rock for you. You might even need to do a waterchange on the bucket.

As mentioned earlier, most of the nitrates and phosphates disappeared when you pulled out the CC substrate. However, a lot of it is still there and that is what is fueling the hair algae growth. Some of it is on your LR in the form of detritus and some is in the bodies of the bacteria that is on your LR.

At one time, I had a lot of hair algae. I did a couple of water tests and I had zero nitrates and zero phosphates. That info conflicted completely with the links I provided. If I didn't have nitrates nor phosphates, then how could I have hair algae??? Boy was I confused. (BTW---I picked my avatar because I liked Bloom County but mostly because Portnoy looked confused).

As some of you know, my other hobby is Bonsai and landscaping. Because of my bonsai and gardening background, I soon realized that things were more complex than I originally imagined. All fertilizers have an NPK rating. (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium). All 3 of these components are utilized by your lawn and/or plants. These don't stay in the soil, they are absorbed by the plants. Frankly, I would be ticked off if I bought a fertilizer that stayed in the soil instead of being absorbed by the lawn.

By combining my reefing hobby with my bonsai hobby, complex chemistry issues finally made sense. Trying to determine how many nitrates (N) or phosphates (P) are in my tank by taking a small water sample makes as much sense as trying to determine if I should add fertilizer to my lawn by trapping a sample of air above my lawn. If you have hair algae and you tell me you don't have any nitrates nor phosphates, I'm gonna say, "yes you do---you just can't test for it because your "lawn" is absorbing it more quickly than you can test for it. My made up word for this is "masking". (I.e. You can't test for the NPK because it is being masked).

(Some of you might read my NPK anology and say, I can see the the N and the P, but where is the K? Well, it's there but iodine/iodide questions should be in a separate post and it shouldn't be in the "Just starting out" forum. It really is a New Frontiers forum issue).

Some of you might recognize the name Snapper. He was the lawnmower blenny I bought without doing any research. If I had done the research, I never would have purchased him as most lawnmower blennies eventually die of starvation in our tanks. I once had a hair algae problem and that's why I bought him . He went to town on my hair algae but as most of the people on this thread know.....I don't recommend that people buy one.

Here's why....GIGO. The computer programmers out there know what GIGO is. For everyone else, I'll let you know what it means. Garbage In, Garbage Out. Snapper used to eat all of the hair algae out of my tank which was awesome. However, he would go to the bathroom and then put all of the bad things right back into my tank (GIGO). No matter how harshly I said the word, "NO", and no matter how much I waved my arms around or pointed my finger at him, Snapper would still go to the bathroom in my tank. (WHAT A REBELLIOUS FISH!!!). :):):)

Lets convert this to gardening for a moment. Basically, I put down too much fertilizer. The lawn absorbed the fertilizer and was growing too fast. I was sick of mowing so I bought a goat. The goat was eating my grass but it was also putting out goat pellets. (Using chemical terms. NPK was added to the lawn, NPK was eaten by a goat, some of it was put into the tissues of the goat, but most of the NPK exited the goat and was put back on the lawn to dissolve and be used as fertilizer for more grass to grow). This wouldn't be a problem in real life because goats wander around. Obviously, enclosed systems complicate things. And that is the problem with reef tanks---they are enclosed systems.

Most of the things we add to our tanks stays there unless we remove them via skimming, waterchanges, mechanical filtration, or other forms of nutrient export like macroalgae harvesting, etc.
 

Brucey

Well-Known Member
Cougra .... I recently had a problem where my RO / DI was leeking Phosphates and as such a had a bloom of red slime algae which I was brushing off EVERY day ..... very frustrating when you think that's all in the past. I was advised to setup a seperate external filter (if possible = best) and I had an old eheim banging around. I packed it full of ROWAPhos (Which is quite expensive), but within 3 days the algae was gone. The ROWAPhos lasts approx 3 months so it's well worth while. Hope this helps, it did for me.
Brucey
 

mwrager

Active Member
Great post Curtswearing, Thank for putting it into perspective. i also have had lawnmower blennies that have eventually die of starvation and my hair algae came back.
 

Cougra

Well-Known Member
Well, I've decided that I'm going to try cooking some of the rocks with the worst algae growth. Even if it takes time to cook them at least it'll be out of site and less discouraging then looking at a tank of hair algae.

I've got a nice new 15Gal container just begging for the LR to be added and sealed up (light blocked) for a few weeks. For water movement withing the container I have a small powerhead that I'm going use and I'll have to get another heater (can always use spare heaters since they end up being encorporated into tanks somehow :confused: ).

Now to me, it sounds alot like I"m going to be forcing my cured LR to go through another die-off and recuring process. Am I off on this very far? Will I need to keep an eye out for ammonia spikes while cooking the rock? How badly is this going to stink up my appartment? I know when I tore down the tank to remove the CC it stunk to high heaven and I would rather be forwarned so I can plan some extra time away from the house should this be the case!

I'm definately going to be making some improvements in dirrecting the water circulation within the tank to make it easier to remove debris from behind and around the rocks during water changes. I'll do a post on this when I get it done (hoping it'll be done by next weekend). I'm also going to find the funding somehow for a new skimmer by the end of the month.

I will pick up some Kalk after work tonight and get my drip system working again. It's been a while since I've dripped so I'll need to play around with that again to figure out the drip rate. Any help here would be appriciated as well.
 

mojoreef

Just a reefer
Curt great post. One thing to add to it. first on the phosphates, our kits can only measure inorganic forms. If you get a reading on your test kit it means that your system is already reached the saturation point with organic phosphate. On Nitrogen, it is easier for sure to test for it in most forms, Ammonium however is a little harder as it is so unstable. Most substraights cycle ammonium which is an outstanding feeder of algae.

Michelle your rock wont have to recure. With the action of bacteria (production of enzynes, birth, activity through movement, gravity and a host of other things) it will cause the detritus to simply shed from the rocks, this is a natural process and will not cause any type of spikes. What you will see is that even though you pull off the algae and scrub the rocks clean, then place them in clean containers, you will get a build up of detritus on the floor of the container. With no addition of food and no light for photosynthesis, the bacteria has a chance to catch up on unfinished biz. no input= all output.
In your system the use of Klak will help percipatate Inorganic phosphate, thus taking a little bit out of the input in your system. What you really need to do as with every reefer me included it to watch what you put in your tank nutrient wise and then be as efficient as you can in taking it out. An example would be the use of Phytoplankton. It is a food source for some species, but it also almost pure organic phosphate, if it is absolutly needed then you must be as stingy as you can on how much you use and do all you can to remove it after your finished.

take care


Mike
 

cheeks69

Wannabe Guru
RS STAFF
Originally posted by Cougra

Now to me, it sounds alot like I"m going to be forcing my cured LR to go through another die-off and recuring process. Am I off on this very far? Will I need to keep an eye out for ammonia spikes while cooking the rock? How badly is this going to stink up my appartment?
As long as there's no coral sponges etc. growing on the LR I don't think that you'll go thru a cycle or die-off period JMHO
 

NaH2O

Contributing Member
Originally posted by Curtswearing
Snapper used to eat all of the hair algae out of my tank which was awesome. However, he would go to the bathroom and then put all of the bad things right back into my tank (GIGO). No matter how harshly I said the word, "NO", and no matter how much I waved my arms around or pointed my finger at him, Snapper would still go to the bathroom in my tank. (WHAT A REBELLIOUS FISH!!!). :):):)

I can't believe it, Curt! I would suggest next time sending him to the refugium for a time out! ;)
 

Cougra

Well-Known Member
Cheeks, I agree with Mike, don't stop posting just because someone else posted it already! All input is greatly appriciated and it's nice to have other opinions to back up information, even on Mikes great posts!
 

Cougra

Well-Known Member
WOO HOO!! I've got some good news! My RO/DI unit and TDS meter just came in tonight! Unfortunately, it didn't come with an instruction manual but a letter of appology stating that I can get one via e-mail.

However, I'm still really optimistic and I've already e-mailed the company I got it from.

Now that I've got the TDS meter, I ran around testing all the water available in the house! :)

Tap water = 169ppm
bottled drinking water = 122ppm
store baught RO/DI water = 34ppm
freshwater tank water = 360 ppm (Couldn't resist :p )

I can't wait to get the unit up and running so I can start cooking some rocks and do a good water change in the tank!
 

Curtswearing

Active Member
YEAH!!!

You got it all at once. I had problems so I got an RO unit. I had great improvement but still had problems. Then I got a TDS meter. Then I realized I needed to add a DI unit to my RO unit to get rid of rest of the nasties.

You're almost there. It's only a matter of time at this point.
 

Cougra

Well-Known Member
I can't wait to get this unit up and running!

Every one of those extra packages comes with one or two valves and a couple extra fittings of some sort. Here is the contents of the red package.

I don't want to open everything esle up until I have a clearer picture on how to put it together though. I'm not even sure WHERE I'm going to plump it in yet as it's a little bigger then I expected, especially with the holding tank, but I assure you I will get it in somehow!
 

Curtswearing

Active Member
It's a shame the directions didn't come with the package. The red tubing you see is the input. It is designed to be clamped to your cold water intake line and to pierce the copper tubing. Then your are supposed to back off the valve a little so the water goes into the tubing instead of leaking. I can see on your pic's that you have John Guest fittings like most RO/DI units do. They are amazing. You shove the plastic tubing in....it won't come out....and it is automatically sealed.

My unit only has yellow and blue tubing. The fact that yours has white tubing hints to me that the white tubing is supposed to go to the holding tank for drinking water. (DI water isn't all that good for you from what I've been told).

I don't know for sure though. Maybe someone else out there has one of those units.

If it is inconvenient for you to install this under your sink, you can buy little fittings that screw onto your sink with a John Guest fitting on the other side for a couple bucks (I don't know how much they would cost in Canada). If you are interested, let me know and I'll dig up a link for you.

I'm glad you got this. You're going to like it.

(PS----They waste a lot of water but you can use the wastewater for your houseplants, to fill up your washing machine, etc.)
 

Cougra

Well-Known Member
The hair algae gorwth has slowed down now and seems to be inbalance. I have some rock sitting in the dark to kill off the algae in it and I'm doing more frequent water changes (every couple days).

I'm still dripping Kalk (and remember why I stopped! That stuff is annoying!)

Overall the tank still doesn't look good, however I have mostly recovered a couple colonies of Zo's that had been overgrown and found a couple small shrooms that I forgot I even had in the tank.
 
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