First time JBJ Nanocube HQI 28g

Corailline

Corailline

Member
You get what you pay for with the Tunze 9002. No better skimmer out there for that size tank. I can honestly say I have never heard anyone regret getting any Tunze skimmer, they were making them long before skimmers were available to hobbyist. Virtually silent and works like a charm.

I did use the Medium CPR fuge HOB with light and had the skimmer in there but the evaporation was killer and for me too much noise. I removed the fuge after 6 months.
 
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NanoGeek13

Member
Dont you have to modify the tank trim to get the tunze in there? Also is it true you have to put it in the middle chamber where the media basket goes?
 
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NanoGeek13

Member
After doing some reasearch I think I am going to go with the AquaMaxx HOB-1 no mods nessesary unless you want to open the hood all the way then its a simple .5" trimming of the inlet/outlet tubes and it fits in the designted skimmer column! Now I just have to find one... Also thanks for the intank link I am going to purchase the media basket they make its 76% larger!!! Thanks for all the help much appreciated!
 
jgoldwood

jgoldwood

Member
NanoGeek13 said:
Now I need to find a decent ATO to fit in the back of the 28g nanocube HQI... Suggestions? :sinking:
Click to expand...

What do you mean "fit in the back"? All you need room for is a float switch and a return hose. JBJ is a popular one, and I have liked using my Reefkeeper Lite for an auto top off.

Did you look at the eshopps HOB skimmers? I have the eshopps PSK-75 and have fairly good luck with it. I had the Tunze, and did not want to give up my main chamber for the skimmer.

How is the HQI hood working for you? I have been considering either that or the LED hood.
 
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NanoGeek13

Member
Well I'm new to saltwater and never had an ATO before so thats why I asked, thanks for the info though I'll check out the JBJ ATO. How do people typically set them up? I've heard nothing but good review on the Aquamaxx HOB-1, it's supposed to be very efficient. I am still peicing stuff together before I add water and start the cycle I want to have all the proper equipment, not in a big hurry just wanna take it slow the first time I do this. As far as the hood goes it is like a laser beam compared to any other lighting I've had on my FW tanks but I suppose thats a given since its a MH, the moonlights are very nice as well. I am anxious to see how hot it gets once up and running, I am hoping that all I need to keep it down is a Dual azoo fan on the back after all I live 30 miles north of Seattle WA so it doesn't get very hot here often and my house typically stays at a cool 70 degrees F. I may look into running a micro chiller in conjuction with the dual fan if the fan itself doesn't suffice. I can't see spending 500 bucks on a chiller that might run 1 month out of the year.
 
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NanoGeek13

Member
Finnally got it set up added ~20lbs LR and 20lbs LS. The temperature doesn't seem to be a problem yet as the hottest it got was 80 F with the heater set at 78 F and the ambient temp at 70 F.The SG is @ 1.025. I found what I believe are some polyps on the LR, very tiny the largest about 1/3" wide they are have neon green tenticles with a neon pink center. What are the chances of them living through the cycle? How long should I wait before I start to test for Nitrates/Nitrites a week?
 
Corailline

Corailline

Member
You should test daily to capture the ammonia spike, once you get a value for that you know the cycle has begun. Next you will see the nitrite level rise, and then in a couple of days to a week or so the ammonia and nitrite will reach zero and the nitrate level will be elevated. It is good IMO to see the inital spike as it gives insight into the typical cycle of a sw tank.
 
Corailline

Corailline

Member
Sure polyps are pretty hardy and can take a beating. They might look worse for ware for a while after the cycle but they usually come back no problem.
 
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NanoGeek13

Member
I did use some of that Smart Start Nitrifying Bacteria, is that why I have Nitrates and no nitrites already after 2 days??? I expect this will change.
 
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NanoGeek13

Member
Unfortunately I found 2 bristleworms in a piece of my live rock. I made a feeble attempt to remove them with tweezers and well it didn't work. So how do you get rid of these things?
 
Corailline

Corailline

Member
Looks like cycle is going strong very good.

Bristle worms are good guys, when you over feed and we all do, they will get into every crack and cravies and eat it. My current tank has been running three years and I have never intentially removed a bristle worm.

I currently have one over 1 foot length that lives with my goby and pistol shrimp in the same burrow.

btidlr.jpg


Add to that anything that dies is quickly eliminated by them. Just limit how much food you add to the tank and the population will respond accordingly.
 
Corailline

Corailline

Member
Yes they are. They get a bad rap because a clam or other invert will die and the first thing a person sees is the worm eating the remains ( yes icky) and they blame the worm, but in actuallilty the worms was just cleaning up the remains and did not contribute to the death. You are going to start to see copepods, arthropods, featherdusters, pineapple sponges just to name a few of the common hitch-hikers. :)
 
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NanoGeek13

Member
Well Idk if adding the nitrifying bacteria stalled the cycle or something but my readings are the same except no nitrates 0? Should I throw a damsel in there?
 
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NanoGeek13

Member
I went home for lunch and noticed that an algea bloom has started. This is a good sign correct? How will this effect the purple algea on the rocks if at all?
 
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