Electicity Question

[BobBursek]

If you do not have a vaccant spot in your breaker box, depending on what brand you can get duplex breakers, 2 seperate ones that fit in one spot.

 

[JWarren]

I think his first post said he had fuses.

 

[Gumby]

The beauty of this house wiring is that all of it on the level that I want to "fix" is run to the ceiling of the main level (this is a tri-level with crawl space). This is the reason for me to run my own wiring below into the crawl space as its easier for me to locate the outlet.

I am assuming that the "J" will run to the same box in the ceiling before decending to the switch.....am i incorrect?

I was planning on replacing the outlet at the tank (just not sure I will GFCI there or at the fuse box).

 

[JWarren]

"I am assuming that the "J" will run to the same box in the ceiling before decending to the switch.....am i incorrect?"

I thought you said it controls the wall outlet. If that's the case then it runs to the outlet. You will have to run a line to the can in the ceiling from the switch, if you want to control the fan.

 

[Gumby]

Like i said before, I am a self-admitted idiot when it comes to electricity..... I have breakers.....not fuses..... my only excuse is that I am married to a blonde.

 

[BoomerD]

Like i said before, I am a self-admitted idiot when it comes to electricity..... I have breakers.....not fuses..... my only excuse is that I am married to a blonde.

Oh...the old "I'm not a blonde, but I did sleep with one last night" defense eh?

 

[Gumby]

Will it work in this case because i did....as I have for many years......

 

[fatman]

What currently controls the ceiling can, if it is on a switch already. such as the switch the tank is on just leave it alone and run entirely new wireing to a entirely new outlet box. It is a simple matter to install a new box. You will need to preferably drill a new hole up through your wall plates into the stud cavaity that will contain your new switches. They make boxes that are specifically deigned to be installed from inside a room in to an existing wall. It is a simple matter to snag the wires through the hole that the new box will be installed in and the connections can then be made and aftyer that all extra wire will be pushed into the hole and the box attached to the stud and the outlet screwed into thebox. Make sure that you get a twenty amp outlet not a standared 15 amp. The best 20 amp outlet comes witha cross T outlet strip that allows the use of 20 Amp equipment plugs. They do cost more but are made to be adapted to having each outlet carry 20 amps, not 20 amps between the two outlets. If your running a short distance to your outlets 12 gauge copper wire will work fine. If your running the length of your house it would not be a bad idea to upgrade to 10 gauge wiring. This can make a difference if you have several magnetic ballasts and several motors starting up at thes ame time, as would happen after a power outage. Wiring as used in general construction is very different than the actual wires capacity. Wiring capacity is based on how much current can be carried before the wire or the waires insualtion actually gets hot enough to melt. Wiring sizes used in the housing industry and small commercial indsutry is very conservative. They do take into account volatage losses of long wires that is not a part of a wire capacity rating. Below is alinjk that actually gives wire capacities. It is written in a very understandable language for the layman.

Amperage Chart Technical Information from WorldWideWire

 

[lcstorc]

I know very very little about electrical stuff but I will say be careful that whatever you do is up to code. If not it will haunt you when you try to sell the house. I would also go for overkill. You never know what electrical things you may add to the tank including a chiller and other high electrical items.
Just the opinion of one who tends to overload circuits and has learned the hard way.

 

[jnohs]

Here's the best info so far in this thread..IIRC, the NEC limits you to 20 amps for a standard outlet/circuit.

Next, if you're just going to install a different breaker on an existing line, BE CAREFUL you don't just install a larger breaker because the sparky's (electricians) install the smallest wire the circuit is rated for, (cost control) and overloading the wire can (and often does) cause house fires.

most devices will say in there manuals that it should be installed on a 15 or 20 amp breaker.

if you want more power you need another line.mostly for you ownsafty.liets just say therer was a problem in your tank one day.maybe a light falls in when your arm is in the tank. do you want a 30 amps of power going through you or 20 before the breaker pops. also it should be on a gfi curcit and wouldnt know where to get a 30 amp gfi outlet.

and last if you do run another line try to make sure it is on the same 110 line comeing in to your house.there are 2 110v lines going to your house plus one ground wire witch is also the support wire sometimes. this is how you get a 220v outlet. it is both 110v wires in a single outlet. so for the sake that safety is allways nice. if you do run another line try to get the power from the same 110v line. this way there is no way of getting a 220v shock witch is much more dangerous.

one way you get 2 110v 20amp shock (bad)
and the other way you 1 220v 20amp shock (worse)

just talking
thanks

 

[jnohs]

If you do not have a vaccant spot in your breaker box, depending on what brand you can get duplex breakers, 2 seperate ones that fit in one spot.

if you go the new wire route. useing a duplex breaker would insure that your were getting the power for the 2 new 110v outlet lines from the same 110v leg of your electric. and thus performing the task of witch just explained in my previous post nice and easily.