yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
what is the easiest monti cap to take care. i have heard of many ppl having success with these guys under pc. i would put at the top of the tank. should i point a ph at him?
easiest monti cap?
- Thread starter yungreefer2410
- Start date
Monti caps have the same requirements and should be ok with PC's, how many watts ? I would not point a ph directly at it, although they need strong flow it should be indirect.
yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
its 170 watt of pcs on a 29 gal tank. i like how my ph are now so i don't want to change them so would a rio 50 be to much?
yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
i have a rio 600 and a ac 30? maybe aqua clear. i want to upgrade to a korelia one and the rio
make sure you dip any monti (any coral at all) before placing it in your tank, and then QT. Dont trust just because it was tank raised that it is safe. I got lazy and bought a gorgous monti from a store that was tank raised and did not dip it...and within 8 days lost the entire piece, including another monti that I had in my tank that I had for over 6 months. Apparently the stores tank had monti eating nudibranch and I brought home some eggs that hatched....so guess what? No montis for me for a very long time. But here is the progression
The real funny thing about the whole thing...I wrote a COTM article on Monti a couple days before this happened on another forum and even mentioned MEN :nopity:
picture when I got it..the white is sand that my sand sifter felt belonged better there
about 4 days later in the morning..night before nothing
a couple hours later
in hopes of saving any piece of it I fragged it and placed it in QT..which I should have done in first place:smack: That was same day as initial outbreak. Treated with prazipro dip
2 days after initial QT...moved to a second QT tank as pieces were dying so rapidly causing spikes in parameters...only piece that remained of the coral. Somebody told me to try a very risky dip as I had lost so much coral and was progressing rapidly...bought me a couple days of survival with no new growth....
however 3 days after "risky dip" will not say what dip was as it is so risky and it was last ditch effort...friend who told me is an expert in field so....
did another risky dip
only piece of coral that did not show any visible sign of nudibranch infection. However I decided to call it quits after I lost all but that piece. I left that piece out to slime up as somebody told me you could see nudibranch better and could even see the eggs better and after slime it was amazing how many was on this one piece. If you zoom into this piece you can see it somewhat, however in real life it was AMAZING!
The real funny thing about the whole thing...I wrote a COTM article on Monti a couple days before this happened on another forum and even mentioned MEN :nopity:
picture when I got it..the white is sand that my sand sifter felt belonged better there
about 4 days later in the morning..night before nothing
a couple hours later
in hopes of saving any piece of it I fragged it and placed it in QT..which I should have done in first place:smack: That was same day as initial outbreak. Treated with prazipro dip
2 days after initial QT...moved to a second QT tank as pieces were dying so rapidly causing spikes in parameters...only piece that remained of the coral. Somebody told me to try a very risky dip as I had lost so much coral and was progressing rapidly...bought me a couple days of survival with no new growth....
however 3 days after "risky dip" will not say what dip was as it is so risky and it was last ditch effort...friend who told me is an expert in field so....
did another risky dip
only piece of coral that did not show any visible sign of nudibranch infection. However I decided to call it quits after I lost all but that piece. I left that piece out to slime up as somebody told me you could see nudibranch better and could even see the eggs better and after slime it was amazing how many was on this one piece. If you zoom into this piece you can see it somewhat, however in real life it was AMAZING!
yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
wow. i do not have a qt sadly but what type of dips should i give it before placing it in the tank?
yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
reefracer
Member
Happened to me too! I have some nice monti growing when I added another pretty one of different color. It is amazing how fast those nudi work(eat) and multiply. Lost all withing 2wks, which prompted me to puchase Seachem Reef Dip coral disinfectant, is this good for all coral problems or do I need others to dip before introducing into dt. Rather not have that happen again thanks, Robert
yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
yea i wouldn't want that to happen. i'm not sure what dips to do as i will def not want anything to die
for stonies like monties.....you want to use something like Kent Marine Tech D coral Dip mixed in a saltwater concentration or a lugols solution. Iodine seems to be effective (which both contain). I also used prazi pro to treat the outbreak and would get a ton of nudis falling off but I would use that only if an outbreak.
The biggest problems with MEN is that the eggs do not respond to treatment or dips always as they are the BIGGEST pain to kill, so if you have the eggs and just dip you might still be introducing it into your tank.
If you are going to keep corals or fish, you really might want to consider setting up a QT tank. I am not one to preach as I am REALLY bad about it, but now that I have been burned, I hope others can learn from my mistake. All you need for a QT tank is a small 10 gallon tank (depending on the fish if you get a tang you will need a longer tank), a heater and a sponge filter and a VERY CHEAP light.
The sponge you seed in your main sump for a couple weeks, then you fill the tank up with water..bare bottom, no sand, place a PVC pipe in for fish to hide in or if coral nothing, get the heat up and tank is ready to use. I take about 1/3 of the water from my main display and keep salinity about the same as main display....if you are not ready to add anything in..then you just have to place a couple pieces of food in tank to keep bacteria going. But then you just simply clean out tank and start over between QT's.
This way you can allow the eggs to hatch out on the monti, dip before you put in, keep it in for a couple weeks, and dip right before you put in your main tank. That is the safest way.
I have just been reading so much infestation about flatworms, redbugs, nudis, a pyramid snails that the more I am spending in corals the more I realize I need to do this,
For a lot of the soft corals, polyps, mushrooms, etc a freshwater dip is very effective. (stonies to, but very stressful on stonies I found out) Zoos I read can not handle Iodine...not sure just what I read.
But whatever type of dip you do, make sure you swish the coral around in the solution...it is amazing what you will see down at the bottom of the bucket!
Good luck. I am going to try montis again, just have to wait several months. One good thing about MEN is they only attack Monti!
The biggest problems with MEN is that the eggs do not respond to treatment or dips always as they are the BIGGEST pain to kill, so if you have the eggs and just dip you might still be introducing it into your tank.
If you are going to keep corals or fish, you really might want to consider setting up a QT tank. I am not one to preach as I am REALLY bad about it, but now that I have been burned, I hope others can learn from my mistake. All you need for a QT tank is a small 10 gallon tank (depending on the fish if you get a tang you will need a longer tank), a heater and a sponge filter and a VERY CHEAP light.
The sponge you seed in your main sump for a couple weeks, then you fill the tank up with water..bare bottom, no sand, place a PVC pipe in for fish to hide in or if coral nothing, get the heat up and tank is ready to use. I take about 1/3 of the water from my main display and keep salinity about the same as main display....if you are not ready to add anything in..then you just have to place a couple pieces of food in tank to keep bacteria going. But then you just simply clean out tank and start over between QT's.
This way you can allow the eggs to hatch out on the monti, dip before you put in, keep it in for a couple weeks, and dip right before you put in your main tank. That is the safest way.
I have just been reading so much infestation about flatworms, redbugs, nudis, a pyramid snails that the more I am spending in corals the more I realize I need to do this,
For a lot of the soft corals, polyps, mushrooms, etc a freshwater dip is very effective. (stonies to, but very stressful on stonies I found out) Zoos I read can not handle Iodine...not sure just what I read.
But whatever type of dip you do, make sure you swish the coral around in the solution...it is amazing what you will see down at the bottom of the bucket!
Good luck. I am going to try montis again, just have to wait several months. One good thing about MEN is they only attack Monti!
I am pretty sure that is similar to Kent Marine Tech D Coral Dip!
yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
okay i think i will set up a qt. so i can freshwater dip ALL softies? i thought i could only do zoas
corals can go a while with low light...hence why you dont need to have an expensive lighting system in your QT tank for the amt of time you are using it. I am actually only using a desk lamp that stimulates the natural sun spectrum. But what you do want to do when you move them into your display is to light acclimate them...just like all corals.
yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
light acclimate?
I did not say ALL softies...a lot. You would really do best to look up the particular coral and see what is recommended. I have done freshwater dips on many softies, but only for 15 seconds or so and I am lucky I have somebody to ask who has owned a store and has written articles on the topic!
There is a lot of controversy on FW dips honestly..some articles I have read say you should do them on just about everything...others on nothing...and the authors are all well known. So if you can not find the info then dont do it....use a saltwater coral dip! Or if something doesnt feel right dont do it. One article I read for MEN said do a FW dip on monti....I did, killed a ton of nudis, but everybody told me I did absolutely the wrong thing. The coral did not get overly stressed, did buy some time, just about as much time as everything else, but I would not recommend doing it on a healthy coral.
Zoos are one thing you also want to make sure you place in your QT tank. They are well known for having nudis...I have never had one but they say they are more obvious as one or two polyps will start to not open...then will have more not open etc.
gradually increase the light..when you get a new coral or it comes out of QT it is not used to as much light as you have in your display tank. If you just place it in there and run it you run a chance of bleaching it for a stoney or just stressing it. (esp for MH)
So what you need to do is place coral on the lowest part of the tank at first, turn on light for only an hour or two then turn it off for the rest of day. Then gradually increase the light until it is on for full amount that you keep it on by adding an hour or two a day. Then once you get a couple days of full light then you can gradually move the coral to where you want it.
yungreefer2410
Well-Known Member
okay i will just research all my new corals. i am getting a frogyspawn next. does this need to be dipped in anyting?
jkburton1s
Member
i just bought five pieces off ebay. three of the five pieces died withing a couple days. and the other two are going just fine. i didnt do a dip or any qt. but now i wish i would have. no nudibranch just died. thesee were monti capri. all water pm are good. just dont know why. guess it could have been a sudden tissue nacrosis.