i wouldn't do any water changes yet... the idea of cycling is to have a spike... it should go down very shortly. the nitrItes should go down shortly and then the nitrAtes will go down shortly therafter... with no fish or anything you should be able to get 0 for all of your numbers, then add a fish or a cleaner but stock it SLOWLY, each fish you add will give a small spike
Cycling my 12G
- Thread starter cburns32
- Start date
True , the nitrites are still a little high, (should go to zero after the cycle) but aren't those nitrates insane. I don't even know if my test kit goes to to 160. I must admit to not having cycled a large number of tanks, but those nitrates will take forever to drop from 160.
Do other people see a Nitrate spike that high?
Do other people see a Nitrate spike that high?
I have seen it in a LR curing vat i did before but i always try to put several established live rock in a tank to speed the curing process. but i have heard of people getting spikes that are off the chart..... also with some test kits you need to read the directions... the API test kit you have to shake the bottle for at least 30 sec. and then shake the test tube for one min, then wait five min!!
steps like that are VERY important
steps like that are VERY important
FYI CBurns:
You said a while back you are going to use rubble in your compartments. I suggest you get some larger mesh nylon bags, so you can easily pull it out for cleaning. I picked up some real nice "pea rock" (about 4-7mm) that works great in such bags in my Aquapod compartments.
Lots of surface area and good flow.
I brought back a bucket of the stuff from the KEYS last time I was there.
Regards
Fred
You said a while back you are going to use rubble in your compartments. I suggest you get some larger mesh nylon bags, so you can easily pull it out for cleaning. I picked up some real nice "pea rock" (about 4-7mm) that works great in such bags in my Aquapod compartments.
Lots of surface area and good flow.
I brought back a bucket of the stuff from the KEYS last time I was there.
Regards
Fred
Get a second opinion on the testing. Your LFS should test your water for free.
After the nitrItes drop to zero and you begin to perform water changes, make sure you mix the newly made salt water overnight and test it PRIOR to using it to make sure it matches the main tank. I would then concentrate on reducing the nitrAtes to 10 ppm or less BEFORE adding any livestock. Doing daily 30% water changes would be a good plan.
If you have algae issues, make sure to use a phosphate remover (phosban) and use ro/di filtered water instead of tap.
After the nitrItes drop to zero and you begin to perform water changes, make sure you mix the newly made salt water overnight and test it PRIOR to using it to make sure it matches the main tank. I would then concentrate on reducing the nitrAtes to 10 ppm or less BEFORE adding any livestock. Doing daily 30% water changes would be a good plan.
If you have algae issues, make sure to use a phosphate remover (phosban) and use ro/di filtered water instead of tap.
cburns,
You sound like all of us!
Just trying to sneak that shrimp in. Maybe no one will notice.
I'm with Witfull. Go for the heavy duty cleaners, some Astreas and hermits if you are going with crabs in your cleanup crew.
Shrimp can be expensive and aren't as hardy.
My 2 cents
Fred
You sound like all of us!
Just trying to sneak that shrimp in. Maybe no one will notice.
I'm with Witfull. Go for the heavy duty cleaners, some Astreas and hermits if you are going with crabs in your cleanup crew.
Shrimp can be expensive and aren't as hardy.
My 2 cents
Fred
Fast Eddie
New Member
looking good any updates?
Ed
Ed
