Coral Dip

[Pat24601]

Not sure this is the right forum location, but way back when I started this hobby I was dipping my corals using a couple of different dips that seemed like a good idea at the time based on whatever I had read at the time.

Well, my LFS talked me out of that because they felt dips do more harm than good and they wouldn't have sold me the coral of if it had a problem.

Now that I've had a GBA outbreak that I'm 98.6% certain came from some Acan frags I bought from them my view has changed.

I haven't added any coral to my tank since the outbreak, but if I do now I'm thinking I'll dip or quarantine. What dips are good for what? Is there a cheat sheet somewhere? Do any protect against GBA?

 

[DaveK]

I'm of the opinion that coral dips can be useful, but I don't think they do much against unwanted algaes.

You use a coral dip to help prevent various infections such as RTN and remove various parasites such as red bugs.

There is a case to be made for not dipping some corals. At the same time there is a case for using a coral dip. I prefer to dip new corals. Use the manufactures instructions to the letter, and treat for the minimum strength of dip and minimum time in the dip.

 

[Pat24601]

Thanks, Dave. So, it's sounds like maybe my LFS was telling me true...or true enough...meaning they weren't saying anything unreasonable.

I'm assuming the GBA came in on the Acan frags because 3 of the 4 frags had GBA on their base when I first noticed the GBA and I didn't see it anywhere else at the time. Not sure that is sound logic, though.

I guess the only way to prevent something like this is an extensive coral quarantine period? Say, 10 weeks? I don't hear about a lot of reefers doing that.

 

[Oxylebius]

I guess the only way to prevent something like this is an extensive coral quarantine period? Say, 10 weeks? I don't hear about a lot of reefers doing that.

A QT does work well. So that is an option.

Or you can take the coral off their plugs and inspect the base really well (a magnifying glass works well here). If you see anything, you can take a butter knife and scrape whatever it is off.

I've taken most of my sps off their plugs, which has worked out well.

 

[StirCrayzy]

Coral QT is coming to the forefront very recently, because of exactly what you describe, pesky intruders that only manifest after frags are settled for a couple weeks.
My current algae overrun started on one frag, and I swore I could keep it plucked and in check, but nay.
I've dipped that particular acan in peroxide and coral-RX (separately of course) but still this trailing viney macroalgae has persisted.
The downside of a coral QT, is sterility. We typically think of QT as small, bare bottom, minimal bio filtration, minimal lighting, and without any of benefits of the DT system we've built for it.
In this way I think a coral QT could be a detriment instead of a benefit if not very closely monitored.
I would like to get one going myself, but still in planning stages trying to get around those obstacles.

 

[Oxylebius]

For those who want opinions on what dips to use, this is a good thread to read: Coral Dip - best brand to use?

For my QT, the lighting is an issue for sure for me to QT sps. Not enough.

 

[Pat24601]

Yeah, I've thought about that aspect of a QT tank. Having a crappy tank doesn't seem like a good idea. I've thought about buying a (used) Red Sea 130 and using it as a QT tank, but then I'm really maintaining two tanks and I don't want to do that either.

I totally agree it's a balancing act. Just trying to think through it.

 

[StirCrayzy]

I'm thinking of doing asetup small diy Rapid LED setup on my 20g QT, and branch off for a 5g coral tank. But a PAR38 might be the method of choice.