Chiller Plumbing Question

[aramis]

Hi - I have a chiller but have yet to install it (I'm waiting on my Lifereef sump to arrive first). I plan on configuring the sump and chiller in series (sump output to chiller input; chiller output back to tank). Since I'm not too familiar with aquarium plumbing, I'm a little confused as to what type of valves I should install in my setup. I've heard mention of ball valves, stop valves and union coupling etc.

My question is what type/number of valves would be best for my configuration and where should they be placed. I'd really like to get this right the first time! Thanks in advance!

 

[cbrownfish]

I would put a union ball valve on either side of the chiller at a minimum, so you can remove it easily for service. The ball valve will allow you to shut off the lines and avoid a back siphon from a high point or drainage from a low point like your sump. The union part on the valve allows you to unscrew the valve and remove the equipment. Union ball valves are higher quality and allow you to disassemble without cutting. The cheaper PVC ball valves typically get stuck and work poorly over time. They are also a "permanent" mount. In other words, you can only remove them by cutting them out.

You may also consider placing a ball valve near the water source if it is a long way from the chiller. that way you can shut a valve at the sump and/or disconnect there in case of emergency or needed maintenance. I would also consider placing one in the vicinity the return line discharge for the same reason.

 

[VP Clown]

I would put a valve in the line from the return pump to the tank, then either side of the valve a T piece to tap off into the chiller and return back, I would put an isolation valve before and after the chiller, This way you can by pass the chiller by opening the inline valve and closing the chiller off. Then you can do m/c on the chiller and keep the return going with minimum of effort, Remember though if you isolate the chiller for any period to ensure the wateris drained out from that section or will go sour.
HTH
Andy

 

[aramis]

Thanks for both of the comments - great suggestions!

 

[tnwillia]

aramis.... If you want to see pictures, the RMS 250 mod thread has a few that may help. I think Bodyguard295 set is plumbing up along the lines your talking about. Also Brucewrs and I have installed external pumps for out chillers. Hope you can find what your looking for!

 

[aramis]

Thanks for the reply Tom - actually I've been trying to model my set-up with their/your setup(s) - I just didn't know what the name of the actual valves were called that they (you) were using.

 

[tnwillia]

All mine are ball valves bought at Lowe's. I put a ball valve on either side of most of my connections to shut the water down if ever needed. I really went overboard probably. I used unions (also from Lowe's) on all my pump connections. This lets me take things out without tearing down all the plumbing. I'd suggest draw the plan out on paper then add the valve/union connections where you want them, once your happy then go buy what you need to do it. Good luck with yours!

 

[aramis]

Thanks for the advice and suggestions Tom - and thanks for letting me know that I could pick everything up at Lowe's - makes things very convenient!

 

[Reefin]

This is how i have my chiller setup with sump it works great and i dont get any cold spots in my DT !!!

The 1/2" ball valve on the left is the IN to the chiller with the 1/2" flexible tubing it splits off from my return plumbing.

This is the OUT from the chiller I have flexible tubing 1/2" to a hose barb to slip fitting with the 1/2" pipe hanging on to the overflow but NOT submerged into the water so if the power goes out you won't have a back siphon i hope this helps

 

[aramis]

Thanks for the description of your setup Reefin - great idea to avoid a back siphon - thanks for the pics too!