Chiller and uv and pump
- Thread starter JasonB
- Start date
pablomay28
Well-Known Member
I had a 1/6 and it would take 45-60 min to cool down. I would go with the 1/4 with JBJ the price difference between the 1/5 and 1/4 is about $50 USD
Leo
Active Member
"have the return line above the water"? meaning the water coming back upwards to the top of the main tank?
Leo
Active Member
Also,
I'm quoting myself here
"Lastly, I had imagined, A tank to UV to Chiller to sump as the way my water would flow. I'm wondering if I should keep the chiller & UV on a separate pump from the other side and use the chiller attachment I bought to put it together ???"
pablomay28
Well-Known Member
In the event of a power outage the water from the display tank will drop until it is level with the water intake and below the return line. When I turn the power off the sump water level goes up due to this. When the pump is turned on you will hear the water going up into the display tank until the return line is under water. At that same time this will cause your DIY overflow to start sending water from the tank into your sump and in a few seconds your sump level will stabilize. You can see some videos on youtube look for DIY overflow and sump test. Like I said I will try to put pictures up tomorrow.
pablomay28
Well-Known Member
Leo
Active Member
Thank you... still trying to absorb this last part. Look forward to your photos. i just pulled out my old pump. it was external. Called a MAK 4. When i tried to look it up, Iwaki came up up and yep, that's it. interesting that it says it pushes 75L /min. that is the equivalent to 1200GPH. I t has valve attached to it. Obviously for reducing flow. I
am also certain it was connected to the sump I had and pushed the water back up into the man tank. Wonder if this is overkill!!
pablomay28
Well-Known Member
One thing with magnetic pumps is that when you pull them you have to wash them and remove the magnet. I had a Taam Rio Hyperflow do that. It rusted from the inside out and bulged. Make sure if you are going to use that pump that it is clean and that the magnet in the impeller is in tact and not bulging.
Leo
Active Member
I feel kind of foolish saying this but from all that I was going thru back then, this wasn't a priority. It hasn't been cleaned or used in a long time. This weekend I'll look into it. Might already be damaged. And honestly, it may be best to start with a fresh pump. Doing all the plumbing for this and then it failing would be a complete waste of time. And possibly problematic. By the way , did you catch my question regarding the chiller/UV scenario. Would love your advice.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
pablomay28
Well-Known Member
I ran a set up like you are talking about. I had a pump feeding the chiller then going through the UV before going back up into the display. I believe UV need a certain amount of dwell time to be effective and this would affect your chiller since the chiller has a min-max flow rating. I went to a slower pump to make sure the water would have enough contact time with the UV light and still noticed no difference. I purchased the UV because I thought it would help with any Ich problems and it did not. I personally no longer and will not run a UV through my system. The best thing for fighting Ich in fish is a quarantine and I think that any other Issue like algae can be taken care of with water changes and good husbandry.
Leo
Active Member
I'm aware of all this. When I did use it it was for algae control and I felt it worked great. But I understand everything you said. Regarding the removal of the fans, the only fans I'm aware of are on the right side of the tank. I anticipated putting this set up coming out from the backside and the plumbing being in the back left corner chamber. The chiller attachment would be on the opposite back end I don't want to have tubing sitting visible inside this tank. I thinking this wrong?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Leo
Active Member
Also, I ca run my chiller at a minimum 420GPH The UV
I happen to have a rather large chiller (Old tank was much bigger. It is a JBJ Arctica Titanium 1/4 horsepower.I did talk to the tech over their, concerned that this is overkill and what can happen. He replied that it is not a problem whatsoever. If anything it'll cool the tank super quick and therefore not need to turn on that much (which will be good for power consumption!)
The minimum recommended flow should be 420GPH. MY 15 watt classic UV by Aquaviolet, has a flow rate chart of 233 on the low (which is primarily for parasites) and which I too don't believe it really helps)
Stated by the company
"Reef Tanks -A UV rated in the 30,000-45,000 columns is ideal for the reef environment .UV’s rated
at higher kill rates will destroy the planktonic food supply for the reef.", Not that I believe everything I read, but it was quite effective years ago in keeping my reef algae free. But I also ran a 20 gallon refugium. So if I run it at 450-500GPH, I think it won't hurt. Maybe not do as much as some believe, But I own it and also, just purchased all the replacement parts plus new tube
Hi Jason...
look for Sensitivity/Difficulty: level 1 & 2 corals here...
https://sites.google.com/a/asira.org/www2/caresheets
you can add corals anytime after the cycle is complete
SantaMonicaHelp
RS Sponsor
Thanks for the question Jason!
We've got a 75 gallon Reef Pond with a variety of tangs, inverts, etc..
Also a 10 gallon saltwater test tank, and a 10 g freshwater test tank(goldfish, albino cory).
No corals anymore at this point, but soon to come!
~Sandra