Another LED DIY project... questions to ask, details to show

[dacianb]

So I decided to start designing my own LED fixture.

No, I am not crazy – I am a professional led lighting designer since more than 15 years and I designed lights for most advanced industries from advanced microscopy to defense and aerospace… everything with LEDs, of course.
I will try to keep posting the steps I am doing on this DYI project, but will not be fast as I try to do things as should.

I know lots of things about LEDs and light, but still have plenty of questions for amazing people on this forum, as I am quite new to sw and even newer to corals.

1. What is the best spectrum to cover requirements of all marine life forms from a tank? – is very confusing looking at what is on market. Here, my friends, I am totally lost as my sw knowledge is extremely limited.
2. If you would have possibility, what feature would you add to a led light on your tank? Honestly, I really don’t want to control the spectrum from my phone and I will not pay hundreds of $ for such gadgets. I want to make a light using all my knowledge, but have to be simple, efficient and as cheap possible. Let’s say, I will be able to offer myself a 5 years guarantee on this light

Due to some other issues, my led project was postponed until now - but the idea didnt died .
In the meantime I red a lot about this subject and also worked seriously on this.


I almost finalized the design of MCPCB, ordered some mechanical parts / components and also waiting for the cooling system.

Each such board have 41 Osram Oslon Signal LEDs (including cyan and converted blue) and 4 Luxeon UV ( 2x 405-410 nm and 2x 415-420nm range) with a total of 140-150W (depend by voltage bins of LEDs)

With this concept I can mount easily 600W / meter in a slim design, extremly silent system.

100x90 mm boards with a max 150W.


I will return with more details soon

 

[dacianb]

But my main question for the specialists around - the spectrum - is it OK for SW tanks? Or some changes are required? I would like to order the boards asap...

 

[reefer gladness]

Spectral distribution looks reasonable. You might want to do some research into the concept of PAR (photo-synthetically active radiation) for a better understanding of how the light is used by corals. Wattage isn't a particularly useful measurement unit for LED lighting and understanding PAR will help you build a light sufficient for your needs without going overboard.

The analogy I usually make with LED reef lighting is to an audio graphic equalizer. Some folks use an equalizer to faithfully reproduce the music exactly as it sounded in the recording studio while others may want a little more or less bass for example.

In a reef aquarium some folks want to reproduce a natural reef environment while others may want more in the actinic end of the spectrum. Point being is that it's largely a matter of personal taste and having individual dimmers on each color of LED you choose for your system allows you to tune the spectrum to your personal taste the same way you would an audio equalizer.

 

[StirCrayzy]

What type of coverage area is expected using that array.?
If you are warranty provider I would use standard off the shelf drivers that are readily available.


Most tanks probably average between 20-34" lights mounted off the sand bed.
so you should expect to see good PAR levels in said coverage area at varying depths.

 

[dacianb]

Thanks reefer gladness for this answer... Indeed I looked into PAR concept and also to power / spectrum of big brand manufacturers. This board have 3 channels (can be 5, but not necessary) so I will be able to tune the spectrum on my taste. The real reason of high power is not because I will use it, but because LEDs kept at low current are way more efficient and last forever. Leds at 1A have only double light output of the same LED at 350mA and not 3 times more as most people thinks... Also there is a complex relation between driving current-thermal resistance of the system and lifetime of LED. But will not go in boring details.

 

[dacianb]

What type of coverage area is expected using that array.?
If you are warranty provider I would use standard off the shelf drivers that are readily available.


Most tanks probably average between 20-34" lights mounted off the sand bed.
so you should expect to see good PAR levels in said coverage area at varying depths.

Thanks StirCrayzy - basically I am building this light for a tank 1meter long (Juwel Rio180) but I really hope next year to upgrade it to a RedSea Reefer 350 (love what I saw until now). It is a modular concept and in the end will be 4 such modules - 600W on 1.2 meter tank.

I plan to use Mean Well drivers, even if will be the weakest point in the system. All other components have 5 years warranty, including fans

 

[StirCrayzy]

So how many of your 100 x 90 modules will be needed to light 1.2 meters of tank? How far apart?

 

[dacianb]

So how many of your 100 x 90 modules will be needed to light 1.2 meters of tank? How far apart?

It is quite a modular system, but my plan is to start with 2 and then a bit later to add 2 more. Soon enough the full mechanical design will be ready and then will see what I mean.
I prefer to have more light sources and use them at lower currents.

Basically one of such modules light up quite nice a 50*50 cm area from relative low height ( close to water level).

Right now I have really bad lights and still LPS grows nicely. Anything will be better than what I have now (2x45 W Juwel T5 - quite a weak light).

 

[dacianb]

Next question of my project.... CONTROLLERS .

I plan to use Coralux Storm to control the lights. Is this good enough? Are there better options on same price range? I need only 3 channels.

 

[dacianb]

Finally I received the approval for the gerber files from a friend with more knowledge in electronics (he just checked if everything is OK on the design I made) . Now I can order the boards and start the build

 

[hummer41269]

Wow .what's the estimated price tag on the light ?

 

[hummer41269]

And will you sell them to people?

 

[dacianb]

Hi Hummer41269, I am back to business after a nice winter holiday...
About final price of it... not sure yet as is not finalized, but I am maniac on quality components so I prefer to pay the price. Will be more expensive than ebay lights, but still under brand lights. Today I will add a large upgrade of the status of the project.

About selling them.... A friend of mine saw the design and is interested by, but until I dont test it in detail I cannot promise anything.

 

[dacianb]

Finally back from winter holiday and I think is time to post the status of my project...
First change is the led board... right after order them I decided to modify things a bit, lucky me I was able to change the order. Basically I split the LEDs on 6 channels
thanks to some suggestions I received from nice forum members and added a bit more power (around 160W now).
I expect the boards next week.
Channel 1 - up to 5 Luxeon UV LEDs- can choose any wavelengths with steps of 5nm.
Channel 2 - 9x Deep Blue Osram Signal or SSL
Channel 3 - 9 LEDs - but this time a mix of Deep Blue and Converted Blue LEDs (new leds with an interesting spectra - visually are like regular blue, but have a large emission in deep blue range)
Channel 4 - 6 LEDs - 4 Osram Blue and 2 Osram cyan (they call them verde)
Channel 5 - 9 LEDs - cold white channel, but is a mixt of neutral white with high CRI and converted blue leds (really nice result, as I tested already)
Channel 6 - 9 LEDs - warm white channel - with probably 1 deep red led. For whites I will use 3500-4000K range with top CRI selection (95), for a great color rendering effect

 

[dacianb]

Next step about fixture itself...

I design things and order parts for a 2x400mm fixtures, but after cutting things I had some left overs, so I will do a short light too

Fixtures itself are 40x14.5 cm and 2x led engines ( 320W ) long one and 20 x 14.5 cm and 1x led engine ( 160 W )short one.
Everything is black, of course, but top and side covers can be customized in any imaginable way as are 3D printed and painted. Sides are anodized aluminium profiles

All parts and components used are top quality most made in western Europe.

Cooling story... actually everyting is build around the cooling system. For such high power and also to keep everything light and small was a bit of challenge.
I use two heatsinks on large version and one on small one, pure copper with ultra high density fins and vapor chamber techology.

I have already the fans in tests... 92x14mm ultra silent (13db) with 150 000 working hours (actually 50% more than leds) and 6 years warranty. Fans are mounted
with thermal switch, so will be on at 50°C on board and off at 35°C.

For the long version, fan is integrated into system, for short one (not in the picture) but is mounted on top. Anyway, being so narrow is quite nice looking.
For the air intake I opted of a Y shaped flow with tulburence generators components.

 

[dacianb]

the design of the top side is not really finalized from aesthetic point, but I will work it out in next days... suggestions? :apimp:

 

[StirCrayzy]

Next step about fixture itself...

I design things and order parts for a 2x400mm fixtures, but after cutting things I had some left overs, so I will do a short light too

Fixtures itself are 40x14.5 cm and 2x led engines ( 320W ) long one and 20 x 14.5 cm and 1x led engine ( 160 W )short one.
Everything is black, of course, but top and side covers can be customized in any imaginable way as are 3D printed and painted. Sides are anodized aluminium profiles

All parts and components used are top quality most made in western Europe.

Cooling story... actually everyting is build around the cooling system. For such high power and also to keep everything light and small was a bit of challenge.
I use two heatsinks on large version and one on small one, pure copper with ultra high density fins and vapor chamber techology.

I have already the fans in tests... 92x14mm ultra silent (13db) with 150 000 working hours (actually 50% more than leds) and 6 years warranty. Fans are mounted
with thermal switch, so will be on at 50°C on board and off at 35°C.

For the long version, fan is integrated into system, for short one (not in the picture) but is mounted on top. Anyway, being so narrow is quite nice looking.
For the air intake I opted of a Y shaped flow with tulburence generators components.

I would make an effort to be something other than a Generic looking black box light. Style and shape will go a long way in spreading the word. You want something memorable, beautiful, and functional.
I'm not the.most creative person, so I don't have any suggestions, but if you generate a buzz, word of.mouth can carry you a long way.
If you're doing.3d printing, I would.at least offer colored plastics to customize per request.

 

[dacianb]

Thanks Josh,
indeed is a great idea. For the moment I am focusing on technical aspects of this light... I added already some changes comparing with black boxes on the market on technics, I am thinking to add even more (like LSD to completely eliminate disco effects and hotspots) and when I will be really happy with outcome I can "release" creativity to change the look of the covers. Actually only top and side covers are 3D prints, sides are extruded Al profiles (only choices is black or nature al - maybe if I will buy few miles of profiles they will do it in color of my choice )
Since long years my job is to design led lights for advanced industries, but is the first time I am doing a light for myself. I want to do it great, of course.

 

[dacianb]

And finally got the led board :bouncer:

 

[GregT]

Very nice looking led setup.
If I did my LEDs again I would have a T5 tube front and back as fill in light to take away shadowing
cheers
Greg