20 gallon corral....need input and answers

L

livebait

Member
I read/follow Doni's thread on her build because I've always wanted seahorses. After I got into the sw end of the hobby I knew I wanted either a seahorse or clown tank. Then I saw LIFE PLANET EARTH on the Dis. channel. One of the sea creatures they spent quite abit of time on was the dwarf seahorse. That made up my mind, the brand new 20 I had picked up at an overstock sale for $5.00 last month was going to become a home to a herd of H. Zosterae. The time has come to begin the researching and planning.
OH LORDY....after just a few hours of reading up on the little guys I have come to the conclusion that they really shouldn't be kept by the average hobbyist, namely me. To much time involved in just feeding them not to mention the other special needs they demand. Better left to ppl who are at home all of the time. Maybe when I reach retirement but not now.
So...I still am going ahead with my plan just will be getting a pair of H. Reidi or H. Erectus. Haven't decided which yet but am leaning to H.E.
The first bit of confusion I'd like cleared...
Liveaquaria claims minimum tank size for 1 H.E. is 30 gallons
Seahorsesource claims I can keep a pair in a 20.
Which is more true to accurate?

Can someone recommend books that I can get to read while at work?

Should I plan on skimming as efficiently as I do for my reef? If so what is an econmical skimmer to look in to for a 20 gal?

I plan on partitioning off the back 2" of the tank to hide the overflow pipe. All that will show in the display are the returns. the plumbing will all be hiden between the partition and back glass of the tank. I can't drill the tank because it's tempered. I can't hide an overflow box so I'm going with side by side 1" siphons that will "t" into one 1 1/2" pipe to the sump. Anyone know of an online calculator to find gph?
The sump will just be a rubber maid tub to hold my heater, skimmer and DIY 2 part media reactor. Also be some chaeto in there.

The display itself will have about a 2" in layer of mangrove mud. I'll lay some GARF Grunge on top of that then an 1" or so of coarse reef sand. There'll only be one manmade rock in there but it will be a sizeable sculpture that will hold my ricky's, mushrooms and some of the macro's. The bed will be planted with oar grass, ulva, gracialia mostly but will have some other types of macro's and a couple low light gorgs. I'll stock pods at the end of the cycle to get the population building.

I haven't decided on lighting yet but am thinking about PC's. High output, low cost for the screw in type bulbs and I have the fixture for them already.

It'll be months before I actually order the ponies. This will be the slowest 20 gallon build RS has ever witnessed. But I have a ton of research to do while I'm building so the time issue is a very good thing!
 
panmanmatt

panmanmatt

Well-Known Member
Glad to hear you thought twice about getting dwarves, they really are not a good choice for first seahorses.


As for minimum tank size, normal recommendation for H. erectus is a 29 gallon. They can be kept in a 20 gallon IF the dimensions are correct. A 20 long is a lot different dimension wise than a 20XH. 20XH are suitable where as a 20 Long isn't really a good choice. IT can be done, but it's not optimal.

As for the SeahorseSource sugestion:
"Minimum Tank Size Recommendations: 18 inches vertical height. 20 to 25 gallons for a pair. 30 to 40 gallons for 2 pairs."
Look at the minimum height for the tank. A standard 20 gallon isn't 18 inches tall. Also they are talking water volume not tanks size. A 29 gallon tank will hold roughly 20-25 gallons after you add the sand and LR as they will displace water.

You could use the 20 gallon as a grow out tank, but unless it's a 20XH (same dimensions as stacking 2 10 gallon tanks), you'll need an upgrade in the future.

Also looks like you are planning at least 3 inches of substrate, in a 20 long (30x12x12) that will leave you with 9 inches of tank height and a standard 20 gallon (24x12x16) it will only leave you will 13 inches of height assuming you fill the tanks to the top of the rim. Seahorses need a vertical height of 2.5-3 times their adult height. So for a 6 inch seahorse, average size, you will need 15-18 inches of tank height.

You can however look at a smaller species such as H. fuscus which would be better suited for a 20 gallon tank. They are a hardy species but their availability is limited. SeahorseSource has them also so you can check with them and see what is available.

For flow you only want about 6-8x turnover ratio. Spraybars and flared returns are nice because they allow you to use the higher flow rate without as much pressure. 200 gph through a 3/4" return nozzle is a lot more pressure than 200 gph through a 2" wide flare nozzle, same rate but less pressure. Same concept with a spraybar.

Your lighting sounds like a good choice and will work just fine.


Hope this info helped and feel free to ask any more questions you may have.
 
L

livebait

Member
Just the person I've been waiting on! :)

I forget about mentioning stuff alot. Actually didn't think about it until you mentioned it but it's a 20H I believe. 24X12X18 OD.

Will be eventually adding a pair of H. Erectus from Seahorse Source, the ultimate place for captive bred seahorses. since from what I read they seem to genuinely care about the animals and it's well being.

I planned on flaring the returns to make the flow more gentle. I want a rocking/swaying motion in the display.

The only ?'s I have atm are:

Do you know of any good books on this type of pony?

Is partitioning off the back 2" of the dt going to cause problems?
I plan on screening the top area of the partition off to keep snails out and screened openings just above the substrate that will provide flow to help control algae build up back there.

Thanks

DISREGARD THE PART ABOUT THE TANK...I WROTE THAT BEFORE REALIZING I MISSED AN ENTIRE PARGRAPH IN PAN'S POST. WILL BE LOOKING FOR A 29 THAT I CAN PASS OFF TO THE WIFE AS THE 20 I'VE ALWAYS HAD LOL
 
panmanmatt

panmanmatt

Well-Known Member
Honestly, there really aren't any books on that species or seahorses in general that are anywhere near updated. Your best source of information is gonna be places like here or forums that deal with strictly seahorses such as Seahorse.org.

There really is no need to partition off the back 2 inches of the tank. If you are thinking of doing it to give pods a place to reproduce don't really bother. The seahorses will be trained to eat frozen mysis shrimp and won't need live foods. Especially if you do get them from SeahorseSource as they truly do have the best quality stock and customer service. They are hobbyists also so the quality of their seahorses means everything to them.

Seahorses aren't great swimmers so too much rocking and swaying motion will most likely keep them hitched in one place all the time so they don't get beat around. You want enough flow to eliminate dead spots but not too much that it blows the seahorses all over.


Too bad you weren't closer, I have an extra 29 gallon set up laying around I could part with. lol
 
L

livebait

Member
That stinks...I work a pt to support my SW habit and they took away our internet access. Something about customer service lacking....

Since I need a new tank I'll look for one I can drill. The partition was to hide the plumbing. I don't want anything but the returns visible.
Dangit! thought I was gonna get this done fairly cheap seein' how I have most of the hardware on hand. :cry1:
Thanks for the help..once I get it truly rolling I'll start a chronicle.
 
panmanmatt

panmanmatt

Well-Known Member
Man, when ya gonna learn? Nothing in this hobby is cheap. Get a 29 and use the 20 as a sump. Or if you're gonna buy a tank see if you can find a 37, same footprint as the 29 just a few inches taller.
 
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